6/04/26: It’s been a while since I’ve updated my project log, so I thought I’d share what’s been going on. I’ve always wanted this journal to be a transparent record of my successes and failures, and this latest update is definitely a bit of both.

I finally finished all the wiring under the dash and got everything zip-tied and tucked away neatly. I was feeling pretty good about it, until a couple of days later, when I was grabbing a tool I left in the cab and noticed a piece of the headlight switch lying on the floor.

Rewind to 2019: I had replaced the original switch with a reproduction unit because the internal self-resetting circuit breaker kept tripping, causing my lights to blink. The repo switch solved the immediate problem, but this isn't the first time it has literally fallen apart on me. This time, however, I couldn't find all the pieces. One of the three springs that holds tension on the contacts had vanished. After searching for a half-hour, I gave up and improvised. I cut a spring from a ballpoint pen in half, and it actually worked well enough to get the switch back in the dash.

The problem, as I’ve realized, is material quality. Even though the reproduction looks like an exact copy of the OEM part, the casing is noticeably thinner. The tabs that hold the contact board in place are weak, and the simple vibration of operating the switch is enough to make them bend and open over time.

The thought of that switch failing while driving home from a late-night car show absolutely haunts me. I knew I couldn't trust it anymore. I looked into buying another new replacement, but they run about seventy dollars after shipping, and I knew I’d just be getting the same flimsy quality.

I dove into eBay to hunt for an original. After scrolling through pages of rusty junk and overpriced "Corvette" listings (same exact switch), I finally caught a break: I found a genuine Delco-Remy New Old Stock (NOS) unit in the original box for forty-six dollars shipped. Total score.

I doused the new unit in contact cleaner and ohm’d out the terminals and everything looks perfect, with the exception of the rheostat for the dash lights. I’ve been working on it and managed to get it operating, though it’s still a little erratic. It’s not perfect, but it’s a heck of a lot more reliable than what I had before.

Progress continues. Stay tuned.

Last edited by Phak1; 06/04/2026 3:05 PM. Reason: Added info

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum