The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project

9/12/19: I had a little time to start reassembly of the front brakes. I mounted the backing plates, the steering arms to the steering knuckle with the bolts, spacers lock washers and nuts using anti seize in the appropriate places. I then torqued them all to specifications and inserted the cotter pins to retain the nuts. I tried the new AC Delco wheel cylinders and they appeared too wide to fit between the tabs of the keeper bracket. When I previously removed the old wheel cylinders, the boots were damaged in that same spot. To me that throws up a red flag, so now, I wondering if the wheel cylinders are correct or the maybe the backing plates may have been changed. Tomorrow is another day and hopefully will supply the answers to this issue.

9/13/19: After posting the issue on “Stovebolt” forum, I found that the bracket is there to keep the pistons from overextending and may pinch the rubber dust cover a bit. I also found out that I can compress the boots and pistons on the new AC Delco wheel cylinders enough to get them installed. Armed with this new information I proceeded to install the new wheel cylinders and new brake shoes. Installation went really smooth with no issues.

Next on my list was to install the brake drums. Not that I have a written list, but a mental list that basically follows what I consider is the proper order of reassembly. Getting out my previously cleaned and inspected bearings in zip lock bags, I was getting ready to do a final cleaning on the bearings making sure that they were spotless when I noticed a spot on a single ball that started to spall. darn, I had previously done what I had thought was a through inspection and had not spotted this. The races were perfect and the balls looked to be in good shape. Previous to disassembly I spun each drum to feel for bearing problems and they were both as smooth a silk. This is another set back as I now need to order a new set of bearings. I think I will use this set back and turn it into an opportunity to upgrade to roller bearings.

Next is to install the tie rod. I had already cleaned and painted it so reassembly and installation was next. This went relatively smooth. I greased each piece as I assembled. After installing it on each steering arm, I tried to do the ball and socket adjustment. The adjustment was not as straight forward as I thought but I believe that I did manage to get it right. Installation of the cotter pins and a final greasing completed the job.

Next was to adjust the steering box. Although the Service Manual makes this sound relatively easy, it is no easy task. The locking nut at the very bottom for taking the slack out of the worm gear is not easy to loosen. It is large, about 2-1/4” and is blocked by the oil filter. I did manage to get it loose after removing the front and loosening the back clamps on the oil filter which enabling me to slide it forwarded enough to access the locking nut. Using a large slip joint pliers (water pump pliers) I did manage to loosen the nut. After unsuccessfully making the first adjustment, it became apparent that I needed a special wrench for that nut or I will risk damaging it with the water pump pliers. The pliers kept slipping and was hard to loosen and tighten due to the ill fitment and limited room I had to work in. I think fabrication of a proper wrench is in order. Tomorrow is another day.