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12/29/23 My goal today was to remove the running boards which look like they have never been removed before. Using my OA torch, heating the nuts then sprayed PB Blaster on them, I successfully removed all of the carriage bolts on the passenger side. The remainder fasteners were straight bladed pan head screws with nuts. After struggling with the first, I broke out my die grinder with a wafer wheel. A bit tedious but effective. The passengers side was off. I took a good look at the carriage bolts I had carefully salvaged, I decided that they were not worth the effort. They were rusted to badly to reuse and will be replaced. I decided to forgo the torch and just muscle the fasteners off or snap them off whichever happened first. At any rate the drivers side running board is off and it was much quicker. Both running boards are in pretty good shape and no metal replacement is required. Only a few dents to remove. The splash aprons are a different story. They will need a bit of work or replacement.

12/30/23 Now with the running boards out of the way, I started replacing the outer portion of the lower cowl. Prior to cutting the cowl out, I took some existing measurements in three places so I could get the panel as close as the original as possible. I made my top cut line, found and drilled out most of the spot rivets and the rusted piece came out fairly easily. The replacement panel did not fit too well. How silly of me to expect the panel to actually fit. It seems the press operator did not get the panel centered as I have too much lip on the top of the door side and not enough on the fender side. I can cut off the excess on the door gap so no real issue. I took measurements in three places on the door opening where I cut out the panel so the door gap should be good. I put the panel in place and held it in place with some vice grips and sheet metal screws. Before I tacked it in place, I installed the door. Easier said than done as I don’t have the strength to install it by myself so I had previously made a contraption to hold the door. Unfortunately it wasn’t tall enough with the truck on jack stands. A slight modification and I was back in business. I put the door in place and that excess lip (caused by the panel being askew prior to being stamped) on the jam side would not let me close the door. I couldn’t just remove the panel as one of the sheet metal screws was behind the door edge so the door needed to be removed. I marked the panel on the back side using the hinge panel as a guide and made my cut. Once the panel and door were reinstalled, the panel needed to be shifted to close the gap on the lower part of the door. I locked the panel in position with a sheet metal screw.

I removed the panel and cleaned up and painted everything behind it. Once it dried, I reinstall the panel and started tacking and plug welding it in place. I started blowing holes in the butt weld and discovered that the welder settings were too hot. I have a Lincoln dual 180 mig and the settings are gradual. The dials are bit too easy to move. Note to self: check the settings prior to striking an arc. Once dialed back the welding went well. The edge for the door gap on the replacement was not as sharp as the existing panel, so I welded beads directly on the edge for about three inches to build it up so I could grind a nice transition from one panel the the other. I think it worked out well.

The passengers side cowl is now complete.