Phil, You suggested shortening one of the rods. I was a little confused as I need a little bit more travel. Which rod should be shorten? I did shorten the rod that comes from the gas pedal.
That is contingent on changing out the correct linkage and bell crank for your truck. The bell crank that Kevin shows (I believe correct for your truck),is different and would originally be installed in the forward pivot position, 2-3” forward of your existing pivot. That position places the bell crank almost behind the outlet of the exhaust manifold. With you using the existing position (and the only position on your ‘60 235), it would necessitate shortening the rod going to the accelerator.
The first photo shows the bellcrank as I found it on my ‘59 235 installed in my ‘52 3100.
The second photo (my truck) shows a ‘52 216 bell crank/linkage mounted in the forward pivot position, which allowed me use the linkage without any modification.
The third photo (found on the internet) shows the correct bell crank/linkage in the rear position similar to Kevin’s. This is not how it was originally mounted but adapted so it works.
That being said, once the engine was changed, your in custom linkage territory, so you’ll just have to play around with it to get it to work. You could always try adding 1/4” to your existing linkage!
Last edited by Phak1; 04/18/20268:31 PM. Reason: Added info
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
