I went thru your same issue. Your linkage appears to be from the ‘60 235 and apparently not correct for your truck. The bellcrank in Kevin’s photos (correct bell crank for your truck), is different and changes the geometry on how it works.
The ‘59 235 in my ‘52 Chevy, came with the same linkage that you have and like yours, did not work correctly. I ended up buying an original linkage assembly from a fellow ‘bolter to solve the issue. I was able to install that linkage assembly as is due to having a second forward pivot position for the bell crank. In your case, the second position on 235’s was eliminated in 1960.
If you decide to go down this path, you have two choices, shorten the rod from the accelerator or add a second position as shown by a fellow ‘bolter, Pre ‘68 Dave, whom has a incredible, very detailed and informative website that specializes in Stovebolt engines. However, the second choice would require you to remove the exhaust manifold, cleaning up any cast iron generated from the drilling/tapping process, so shortening the rod would be my choice and as proven by Kevin, does work.
Last edited by Phak1; 04/18/20261:41 PM. Reason: Typo
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
