Well, I finally got into the garage and made some measurements of the cab. I chose reference points that I could physically identify and easily find. I only chose 1 FAM welding check sheet point, as it also referenced a physical, easily identifiable point. Most of the points referenced are not based on a physical landmark. Instead, they reference the 0 line, which was likely on an assembly jig or they reference the "FOD" or front of dash. I could not find anything that defined FOD as a physical point, so it was up to the person taking the measurement as to where and how the measurement was taken. At least that's how it seems to me. If I'm wrong, please let me know.
Anyway, I've attached a pdf of a spreadsheet with the measurements that I've taken. They (the measurements) do show some interesting points. First, the door openings seem to be consistent from driver to passenger side. That seems encouraging to me. If the massive amount of rust through didn't change the dimensions of the openings, maybe I've got a shot.... Second, the frame to underside of the floor shows the cab leaning from driver to passenger side. That data confirms what is visually apparent. The difference isn't that much, but it is there.
On a different, but related topic, my welding might be improving.... First the background: my thought is that since I'm going to be cutting out a bunch of spot welds, I'll need to do a bunch of plug welds to attach the new metal. This means that I'm leaning towards total panel replacement instead of cutting the new panels to only replace the exact area with rust. My rationale for this approach is that I think it will be more difficult to weld a butt weld seam than it would to make a series of plug welds. If that approach is correct, I'm thinking it will improve my chances of success. On top of that, when you look at the worst of the rusted out areas, I would estimate that 75% or more of the patch panel would be required. So using the whole panel just made more sense to me. Having said that, I'm actually practicing doing plug welds and welding the seams between the practice metal pieces.
What I'm doing to practice my welding is to cut off about a 2" strip of metal from a sheet I bought at the home store. Then, I use the spot weld cutter to add several holes. I then add a flange to the base piece of metal and use sheet metal screws to connect the first piece to the second, placing the plug weld holes over the flange. Then I try to make the welds, starting with the edges of the holes, making my way around the perimeter and ultimately filling the hole. Once I've done all of the holes, I check the underside for signs of weld penetration. I'm also trying to keep a note on each piece as to wire speed and electrical setting. I'm using a Harbor Freight flux core welder (I know, some of you just fainted, but I am on a serious budget), so I can only adjust the electrical as "min" or "max". I think that I actually am making progress in doing better. I find that actually seeing where I want to make the welds is the most challenging aspect, so far. Switching to using the spot weld cutter instead of the hole puncher on the flange tool helped me see things better. Hopefully, I will continue to improve as I practice more. The bad thing is the outside temps right now. It's just too hot to wear a welding jacket, gloves and a helmet for any length of time right now. So I try to get out there early, make some practice welds and get back inside to cool off. That's probably how it will go until the temps moderate some.
I'm attaching the spreadsheet with my measurements and pics of the latest welding attempt, both front and back. As always, I welcome your thoughts. Just bear in mind that I'm a noob at all of this and learning as I go along. I really wish the local votech school would offer standalone classes for welding. Instead, it is a part of a full automotive curriculum.
