The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Archived Journals 1970 Chevy C10 - Grandpa’s Rebuild.

Well, hockey is over. For a bit anyways!

Burb sold!
Duramax sold!
Up a bit in change!
"New" 2004 Duramax doing well. I did have to change out the steering column bearing to get rid of that annoying little clunk/knock in the steering. It feels great now. Everett and I also went fishing for a weekend and broke in Maximus to see how she pulled our camper. Cruise at 110kmh. 2000rpm. And she never moved the whole trip. Up hills, flats, it was great. My Tundra would have been up and down the whole way and only pulling at 90kmh. Happy owner.

Oh right, the C10.

I have been doing some things in between parenting, teaching, hockey watching, and yard work. I have completely torn the LM7 down to the block. I have a billion pieces, bagged and tagged, heads, pistons, everything, everywhere! What good fun. The pistons have some pretty good rubbing on one side so I will be replacing those. The lifters look ok, but I might get the shop to look at them when I drop off the block. The valves look great, despite being a little grimy, the timing chain has a little slack so it will be replaced. All bearings looked good but will be replaced as well. The cam bearings were a little "rough" on the top side, but the cam journals spec out and were smooth. The cam bearings will be replaced by the block shop. A mild cam from Comp and some springs will be on order as well. Nothing crazy, just a little lope, some horsepower and a good broad curve. I will also be putting some LS style manifolds on it to clear the frame. I will use the stock 706 heads for a few simple reasons. 1. I got 'em already. 2. They look great inside. 3. They have a slightly higher compression ratio than some other truck style heads, so why drop some ratio and have to gain it back by adding elsewhere? And I'm not going the ripping snot LS7 path, so why bother with that stuff? I am dropping off the block on Saturday, hopefully.

I also stripped the outside of my 4l60e. I will be going to a 2wd trans (it's a 4x4) so I will use it as a core and just purchase a new/rebuilt 2wd from a good shop and be done. I really don't feel like jumping into an electronic transmission rebuild at this time. The LM7 is enough, methinks. I will get a new torque converter to help plant horsepower more effectively.

I disassembled the starter and cleaned it up and painted parts that needed some freshening. It is ready to go back together.

I blasted and primed the Dingo slider engine mounts. They are dry and awaiting a top coat.

I have also had to buy a few tools in order to complete the tear down. To remove the coolant plug and a few oil galley passage plugs, I needed to buy a large socket type Allen key in metric. 17mm is the coolant plug size, FYI. So I had to wait on those items. Then I needed a Torx 50 IP plus in order to be able to remove the bellhousing from the transmission. Yes, a TORX 50. PLUS. The regular 50 will not fit and will likely strip stuff out. Whatever happened to regular hex bolts GM? Ugh. Boy, oh boy, were those bolts tight. Then the bloody starter solenoid needed a TINY Torx socket. Like super tiny. "Is that a bloody Torx? Yeesh, it is. I think...Yep. You dirty bugger!" I didn't have the tool, or patience any more, so I grabbed the smallest socket in my 1999 Sears Craftsman socket set. A 4mm 6point 1/4" drive socket with extension. Well, the shoulder on the socket hit the wall of the starter. Enter the bench grinder. I beveled the snot out of that 4mm socket to see if I could get it down far enough to bite. It did. Crossed my fingers and slowly began to put some force in. SUCCESS! Just Red Green'ed that one!

So updated hours are:
Cab: 92
Frame: 68 ( I count engine/tranny work here)
Doors: 53-
Front fenders- 34.5
Box-25
Hood/grille-11.5
Other- 2

Total: 286

😎🦊

Fingers crossed my luck keeps going the way it is. The trenches can throw curves at a guy very quickly.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dKdq3iPJa7XP5ayMA