Well, that's unfortunate. And unexpected.

You could cut that broken tube back a little so there's room for a compression coupling (pic 1) and add a new piece going up to the rocker oiler fitting. I believe that tube is standard 1/4" OD copper tubing.
You'll need a new fitting for the upper end as it uses what's called a captive ferrule fitting (pic 2) and they can't be removed from the existing tubing and reused.
Compression couplings are easy to find at your local hardware, but captive ferrule fittings are not so easy to find. I think I've seen them on McMaster Carr's site, but couldn't find them today. [on edit] found them. LINK

Glue the cork rings to the cover, I didn't use any sealant between there and the block. Stovebolt screws (called pan head slotted screws) should be available at your local hardware. But you could use anything, including hex head. They should have external star lockwashers under them.
Attachments
7473t121--549ff2dcc6d1638997983-p9@1x_637745731882517505.png (32.07 KB, 56 downloads)
IMG_9315.JPG (154.98 KB, 53 downloads)

Last edited by klhansen; 09/14/2026 5:33 PM. Reason: added info
Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.