Originally Posted by Pre '68 Dave
On another note.
Be very careful when adjusting rod bearings on a used crank.
The way that seems easiest to do this is to have the rod and journal at the bottom of the stroke while testing.
When checking clearance there you are checking on the part of the crank that sees the most wear.
If you set the clearance in that position with Plastigauge you will find that when you turn the crank 90 degrees, for example, the rod will be binding on the journal.
Make sure you can shake each rod side to side, with little resistance, during a complete revolution on the crank when you are done.
Thanks Dave! I did make sure to do that. I plastigauged each rod, got the measurement, then put the cap back on and torqued it, then turned it a revolution, shaking it like you said. I had no binding issues, thankfully. I only had 1 piston in the engine at a time (without rings) to try and reduce the drag as much as I could, so I could feel it better if it was binding. It was a super long process, working under the truck, but I knew if I didn't do that I could severely regret it later.


1951 Chevrolet 6400