Been following your rebuild also Deve, nice wabpage and rebuild, should be very helpful to many, good luck.
Received a very nice looking rebuilt Rochester B and a Best gasket side pan gasket so I threw them on and couldn't wait to run the engine again today.
Good news is no leak, no slip no drip from that side pan now. I used a VERY liberal amount of Super 300 on both side of the gasket plus pounded the bolt holes back flush with the rest of the pan and it's finally good to go....
Bad news is the new rebuilt carb no workie. Well it'll workie if I keep the choke partially closed. The engine acted like it had a vacuum leak so I spent quite a bit of time testing for leaks at every place I could the point the carb cleaners straw too. I kept chasing false leads but kept getting somewhat consistant idle changes when I sprayed around the carbs throttle shaft and where the accelerator pump linkage entered the body.
Heres a vid of me chasing the problem
New carb won't run right So after far too much time chasing this problem I decided to unbox the original carb I was going to ship back to the rebuilder and try it again. Well it worked 100% better and would both idle down to 550 rpm and run through all the ranges with the choke wide open. Only problem it has is the accelerator circuit ain't right. It stumbles no matter where the timing is set.
So I'll be calling the rebuilder to discuss a remedy.
Heres a vid of the engine running much better on the old carb.
Runnin ggood on old carb. The valve cover was off as I decided to check the valve clearances in troubleshooting, they were all spot on .006 intake, .013 exhaust. (I set them cold at .006 and .015)
Talking about timing, the engine seems to run and idle best with the timing BB advanced to practically past the timing hole. I tried to use the vacuum gauge method to set timing and the fuel/air settings but can't get the needle to steady up at any point. Best I could get was 4 to 5 inch fluctuation at a high point of 20". I don't know if I should be concerned with this or not due to the cam's 3/4 grind.
Wonder if the valves opening more and longer is effecting the vacuum method?
A few other things I'd like to point out. I wanted some down pipes for test stand running so I went ahead and ordered a full dual exhaust pipe kit from an online supplier and I've been going back & forth with them since I received them. You can see in both videos that the passenger side muffler sits approx 12" further back than the drivers side. This in itself ain't a deal breaker but the problem is both sections of pipe that connect to the mufflers and have the bends to go over the rear end are both exactly the same length. If your following me you'll realize that the hump on the pass side pipe will be approx 12" further back than the drivers side nump. Inorder for this to work I'd have to disconnect and angle the rear end forward on the pass side to work with those pipes.....
Well they tell me if I used their mufflers it would work out, I asked if one muffler was longer than the other and they said no they were the same length. Well, anybody else see a problem here? They are supposed to send me a couple 24" sections, this was last week and I'm still waiting.....
A couple pics of the pipes mocked up:
pipes 1 Pipes 2 The mufflers do sound good tho.
Specs on the idle:
Idle 550 rpm
temps 180
dwell 40
volts 13.5
I pulled the plugs before I ran today and they were alittle sooty but otherwise OK. It was good to see that none of them were steam cleaned....
Dave
