The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Crank-out windshields

For those of you who have the Stovebolts with the crank-out windshields, have you been "successful" in stopping the leaks? If so, where did you purchase the rubber seal? Any special tips on what you went through during the install?

I see that "Tech Tips" talks about the install, but how many of you out there have been thoroughly successful with your own install and stopping leaks?

NO these were designed to leak, but I bent the 'V' bars in the center of my 46 windshield, helped a little. Also there are two tiny little drain holes, bottom corners of the windshield frame, make sure they are clear. Oh and get some really good rain gear. My buddy sealed his closed as there is a cowl vent for air, no more leaks.
Best of luck

i didnt get to try mine yet. i was told before i did mine that it was going to leak. the mystery will be where does it leak when it does? it looks good with the new rubber though

Mine don't leak at all!.....as long as I keep in the garage when it rains. On a serious note I gave up trying to stop it from leaking. I don't like driving it in the rain anyways, 'cause the brakes aren't the best.

Mine doesn't leak at all.

Of course I sealed it with clear silicon so cranking it out doesn't work so great.

Got the same problem in the corners David. I've heard that the problem is not as bad if you get a gasket from Steele Rubber Products.
The gasket I got for my 37 has never fit good....especially in the corners!! I would seal it up but the wife and I really like crusing down the road with the windshield out.

Man am I glad to read this, I worked and worked trying to get mine right. Just could not get it right, the gaskit just does not want to lay down right in the corners.I drive mine in the rain,its the most modern multy wheeled vehicle I own. very little leaking, but its not right. Think the repo gaskit is not right or something. Maybe theres a trick to it we dont know about. But I am glad to hear I am not alone on this, thanks guys.

thanks guys still a bridge i have yet to cross good to have some feed back on that before i get there, thinking about challenging the local glass installing place they advertise they can replace any window for 100.oo so i am going to blast my window frame with the window in it "glass is scrap already" then paint it, and then let the glass place have at it, i don't suspect i will be too popular specaily when they garantee against leaks

I used a Steele Rubber gasket on mine after the lousy one I purchased from Carter would just not work. The Steeles product is good quality and very flexible - easy to install in the frame. That being said, mine still leaks ! *G*. Its around the top corners - can't seem to pull it closed tight enough, and theres no adjustment ( far as I know ) on the top hinge connections ?

Ive thought about this and have actually sealed up a leaky sill in the past by applying a thin bead of sealant around the inside mating surface. Then you take a wet sponge and gently wet the the other mating surface. Now just let the weight of the window push down on the sealant and open her back up. The water makes the sealant not stick and once its done setting up you should have a fairly decent surface for the window to seal against.

This was on a different application, but it worked fairly well. Maybe someone will decide to be a little adventurous and try it out before I get to mine on the COE!

Jeff

I bought two different seals from two different vender's before going to Steel Rubber for the third one. Its a much better seal, softer and a better quality rubber. With that said it still leaked, so I installed a second seal behind it. I used a rubber coated foam like trunk seal, in fact I believe it came from a 67-69 Camero trunk. I just glued it to the cab and let it seal against the windshield frame. Now what leaks past the outer rubber, can't get past the soft foam seal on the inside. When the windshield is shut, you can't see any of it, and with it open, it looks like it belongs there. Joe

I also used the seal from Steele products and had one area in the lower passenger corner that leaked. By accident what I did is when the window cranks shut some of the seal would kinda be out laying flat and others parts would fold in more towards the body. I took a screwdriver, covered of course, and gently pushed the seal so it was all inward towards the body and the leaks stopped, no more water inside. Yes it is a pain to do this everytime you open and close the window but.......

I must be the lucky one here. The only time I've had my 46 in the rain I had no leaks at all. I think the secret is a combination of a good seal (Steele Rubber) and the proper angle on the windshield.

When I got my truck the windshield angle was just right so I didn't play with it, but I did change out the seal to one from Steele.

I don't think the original owners of these trucks cared much about a little water in the truck. After these were work/farm trucks and not comfort wagons.

my glass shop would'nt touch the rubber. they said " we dont do that" however he gave some tips. as for painting the frame i would get the frame powder coated instead of painting it. by the time i got done with mine i had to repaint it with the glass in because it will get marred up from installing the glass and the rubber.

i was thinking along the lines of rustednuts should i find out it leaks.

45forme,

Is the angle on the windshield adjustable? If so, do you know how this is done?

It seems to me that when these trucks left the factory there had to have been "NO" leaks through the window. What I have noticed with my window is that I think I've just got the wrong rubber seal installed. It is too "stiff" and doesn't flex well at all. It needs to be softer more like a silicone rubber. Also, I'm not sure that the profile is correct. Anyone have info on what the correct rubber profile design should be on this era Stovebolt?

From what I'm seeing in the previous posts, Steele Rubber must be the best place to go for the right seal. Anyone else have success with other suppliers? Looks like JC is out of the picture on this one.

Lucille, I don't think there any adjustments perse. The "V" bars that hold the two halves together really set the angle. I'm not sure if you can adjust them or not. I guree I was just lurky. My buddy has a 41 with a repro center strip and "V" bars, his windshield doesn't fit worth a hoot.

As for the rubber, I got the Steele Rubber "one piece". Meaning the ends are already glued together. It fit perfectly. I put it on after painting the frame without a single scratch. This is the only way to go IMHO

George

Yes..stick with Steeles..........much superior to JC !
They have an on-line catalouge or just phone for correct part #

OK, it sounds as though the end bonded rubber seal from Steele is the direction to go as far as a replacement part is concerned. If that doesn't work 100% in the end I like the suggestion made earlier about bonding an extra layer of sealing material onto the circumferential gasket. Shouldn't have to, but we'll see.

Now the remaining issue to resolve is to clean out those "drain holes" that are in the corner of the windshield frame opening on the cab. I was just out in the garage looking at those holes/tubes and sure enough their plugged! It'll be easy to unplug them. I can see from inside the little tubes on the inside of the truck up and behind the dash board. Their about 2 inches long and look to be no more than 1/8 inch in diameter. Problem there is no tubing connected to them to drain the water from out of the cab! Does anyone know to where would you run new tubing from these drains to exit the cab? Is there an opening in the firewall somewhere? Has anyone ever seen an illustration showing these two drains and how rubber tubing would be routed from them out of the cab?

I would think that by getting these little drains to function again that it might help solve everyones leak problems providing your actual windshield seal functions as it was designed to. There must be a way to conquer this problem!

Several old timers told me that they leaked when the trucks were new, just not a very weather-proof design. Mine leaks some at the top, but primarily at the lower outside corners. Water will blow through when driving.

What do I do? I carry some paper towels with me, roll one up and close the windshield against it in both corners. Doesn't completely stop the leak, but helps a lot.

That said, the only time I'm out in the rain in it is if I get stuck with a change of weather. I'd rather drive it when it's more pleasant out.

David Bush

Mine had two petrified rubber hosed running from the 2" long metal tubes. They ran down just ahead of the door post and behind the side kick panels. They exited the cab thriugh a little notch in the floor at the inside front of the cab's door post. (clear as mud)

one good way to tell if you will ever come close to getting a good seal is to remove the frame from the crank and the hinges and get a couple helping hands to push it against the cab to see where the gaps are. If you have a replacement windshield this will show you if you need to bend the windshield (v bars) in or out to get a closer fit. Once you get it as close as you can re-install it. The hinges are slightly adjustable both where they attach to the windshield as well as where they attach to the cab header panel so you have to play around (using those extra hands).

Once you have everything re-installed and tighted; go to the local wal-mart and buy some rain-ex and an extra towel. The rain-ex to keep the windshield clear and the towel to dry off your dash and floor.

As for the location of the drain tubes: Kip is right on.

p.s. having a good cranks is key. This is one of the few things I have yet to do - rebuild the windshield crank to get it to pull tight.

Yeah, but if you pull it in too tight with the crank in the center, it tends to splay the ends out resulting in leaks.

Just a thought,
Now I know this isnt stock but it is a solution,Yrs. ago my brother had a 47' I think, International Truck with the crank window he ran all the time for 2 yrs. and he got tired of it leaking at the lower outside corners so he welded 1/4" studs to the frame and made as set of "L" brackets with a slot in them he mounted to the dash and when he wanted the window SHUT he would wind it closed and had a set of wingnuts in the ashtray he would spin on an sinch the corners shut...worked great especially in the winter.
Tim

Well Update on my glass install situation the glass place i am using is going to remover the old glass, then let me take the frame for blasting, powder coating or crome, then reinstall new glass, with a no leak guarantee for 200 considering the work involved in the glass to frame removeal i consider that a bargin

Sounds like a deal!

Good luck,I hope it works.

Jock

Well I am you posted this. I am not close to getting my windshield in. With this info. in mind I may just put a flat rubber seal around my windshield frame with 3M window weld. I can stand a lot of things except leaks. I will write this in my " things to check" note pad.

Debra, buy a gasket from Steele Rubber and you may be surprised.