The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk So, onto the parts buying......

Do y'all think I should go ahead and buy necessary items for my truck now like the floor patch panels and the other cab corner and brake lines or should I wait until I get it running? Since my mom bought my brother a truck she figured that it would only be fair that she buy ME parts. So far I need the left, middle, right floor patch panels, the right cab corner, and brake lines. So, what do you think I should do? Buy now or later?

to me safety is the first concern. what does the truck need to be mechanically sound. you mentioned brake lines. if the truck runs, it might move. it would be really nice to be able to stop it people have been driving cars for years with holes in them, some small some quite large. now depending on the hole that might be a safety concern as well. looks and finish are fine but if it doesn't run right, and safely, who is goig to see it anyway.

just my $.02

Get it running and more importantly stopping first....
Take it one panel at a time starting with the easiest....

Well, the only thing I THINK(not sure there) the engine needs to run is some adjustments in the timing and I'm sure since when I checked tdc with a screwdriver it came out with stuff on it the engine needs clean out. The break lines definitely need replaced as they had rusted on and when I was under the truck and I bumped them with my hand they snapped. So, I know I need lines. Master cyliner is good, since I got the fittings loosened up and it is slowly starting to leak fluid out of the loose connection. Now, I need to be able to get the drum covers off because I tried it and they won't come off. Someone told me but I need some detailed directions(I'm easily confused as I over think!) Now, when the truck runs and stops I could drive it, but only around the yard. The holes in the floorboard are too big to do anything with, seeing as how the cover to the battery box and the battery box are gone(the battery box is now mounted on the fire wall. So, once the engine runs, when I have gotten the breaks fixed, and the holes are plugged my truck SHOULD be mechanically safe to drive everyday and the electrical aspect is still kind of fuzzy as to the condition.

The mechanical parts take precedent over the way she looks. You can drive with holes in the body, but not the engine or brakes!

I always want to hear them run first. Even if it starts for you, is the engine any good? It was parked for a reason. I wouldn't buy any body panels until the truck moves and stops, especially floor panels. Those are flat pieces that can be home made for a fraction of the cost of patch panels. I've replaced the floor, inner and outer rockers, inner quarter panels, trunk supports and floor and the rear fender lip of my 48 coupe without buying a single patch. I'm sure I saved thousands doing it that way and I'm honing my metal fabrication skills on top of it.

Don't assume anything on these old trucks, they'll turn around and bite you. Be sure the engine runs first, don't assume it will,
Good luck,
Scott

I vote for taking care of the mechanicals first. Once she's road worthy & safe to drive you can worry about how she looks.

I second that vote JD, get the mechanicals workin first, motor and brakes ...without either you dont have anything.

I also vote for the mechanics. When I started working on mine first it was stopping (breaks), going (engine), then cosmetics. as 48bigtrucks said, many of the floor panels can be fabricated saving you a ton of money. I still drive with a few holes in the floor and rusted cab corners. One thing that is important is the cab supports, if rusted bad you may find your cab taking a ride of its own while going around a sharp turn.

I wopuld say,it all depends on what your plans are with your truck. if you want to get it riunning and drive PDQ,then go for the brake overhaul.However if you are planning a complete restoration,before you drive it,then go ahead and start with patch panels or whatever you want to start with.As far as buying or making your patch panels,it is a heck of a lot easier to buy the ready made panels.

I also agree with working on the mechanicals first then the body. Engine, Drivetrain, Brakes, Steering, Suspension and Wiring. Get it to run, get it to move and get it to stop. Get it to do all that safely and then worry about the body. Not only are you going to need parts but don't forget about the tools you will need to work on your truck. My tool collection definitly got bigger when i bought my truck, from various air tools and accessories to welders to new basic tools (screw drivers, sockets, ratches and wrenches). Tools make great gifts, tell that to everyone in your family.

What i would do, and what i am doing is take a day or so and inspect every part on the truck and make a list of what is needed complete your truck or to get it to a certain point. Divide it into the different sections and jot down everything that is needed to complete that section. (ie. - brakes - master cylinder rebuild kit, brake lines/fittings, brake cylinders, interanal hardware, brake shoes & brake drums). I went to the links section at the top of the page for parts and went to every part retailer and requested a free catalog and also bookmarked the sites in my favorities. Once I got the catalogs I sat down and went through every catalog comparing prices and then on my list next to the part i need I wrote where I can get it and how much it would cost as well as the part number. Also keep in mind that most part retailers will give discounts or ship for free when you place large orders.

JDL, remeber not to buy any rear window rubbers I have yours here in the shop just been so dang busy finishin mine that I havent got em packed up, but they are comin to a theater near you soon!
There in a box with JDL wrote on em.
Tim

SW_Radial, your finished now! Enjoy yours for a while, have one of you "helpers" drop it off or something! So, what you guys are saying is that I should go ahead and buy the break parts, install those, and then get it running, and then the holes? I can install the break parts(most I'm sure, at least) on my own but I have to wait for the weekends for help on the motor or the body. I really don't care what it looks like but I don't want to be driving it and put my feet in the wrong place and fall through! But my brother said he'd take it to my neighbor who works on vehicles and he said that they'd do work for free on it. Anyway, I was underneath TRYING but to no avail to change the tranny fluid or at least check it and noticed that the cab mounts have barely any rust and still have most of the paint on them!

Also, HOW DO YOU GET THE BRAKE DRUM COVERS OFF?

jdl,

The two MOST important things on any vehicle are the brakes and the steering! Please get a good basic manual that covers your truck and read, read, read! A piece of sheet metal can cover a hole in the floor but nothing takes the place of good brakes and steering.

Removing your drums may be as easy as adjusting the brake shoes in. Sometimes the shoes wear into the drums leaving a ridge in the drum that "locks" it into the the shoe. The fronts are usually the easiest. Do one side at a time. Block up the front axle near the side you plan to work on. Remember, SAFETY FIRST!
Make sure the tire is off the ground and nothing can fall on you.
Take the tire off. Adjust the shoes all the way in, then remove the dust cover and the cotter pin, nut and washer. Then, start "wiggling" and pulling on the drum. It should come right off. Use a piece of cardboard or a tub to catch the outer wheel bearings. The rear drums can be pretty tough to get off at times. You may need some help for those.

best wishes, Les

Les, thankfully whoever had my truck before the po(he did basically nothing to the truck) knew what they were doing and kept what they could in good order. The steering is good. Thanks for the info on the drums. What do you mean by the cotter pin, nut, and washer?

The front drums are rivited to the ft hubs...
To remove...
Vehicle ft end on jackstands
remove tire and rim
remove dustcap, cotterpin, nut washer and outer bearing..
then drum assy will come off...
you may have to back off the brake shoes if there is a rust ridge..

Best of luck with your project. Ready your info brings back memories of my first set of wheels when I was 14. Quite a few years back. 1947 Hudson, chrome removed and filled in, spinner hubcaps and fake white sidewalls. Drove many a mile right there in the driveway.
Bill
Tempe, AZ

I would get it running first. That is what I did with mine. I wanted to make sure there were no bearing knocks before I tore it down. I would hold off on the body parts until you strip it down a bit.

I would also agree--get it running first. Make sure it doesn't have a rod out of it or something. Then get the brakes to work. Whoever suggested getting the manuals first is right on the money. Do as much reading as you can--over and over if necessary--the more of this you do, the better you will understand, when guys talk about cotter pins and washers, etc. you will know what they are talking about.
The holes in the floor, you can patch them temporarily with tin and pop rivets, or even plywood for now. Do the important things first.
And remember--it will take time--a lot of it. So don't try and do too much at one time, and get discouraged. Just take one thing at a time.

Is the dust cap the thing that points outward? That's in the middle between the lugs? If that is true, how do I get THAT THING OFF? Not the hole thing I know, but the end?

It prys off with a screwdriver....a little gentle persuasion with a
hammer will get it started...

So that IS what it is?

jdl,

The dust cover, as it's name suggests, keeps road crud, grit, sand, dust, etc. out of the front wheel bearings. They are usually kind of rounded, and yes, it is in the middle between the lugs. They are just driven into place, no threads or anything. Yours may be covered with grease, so clean the area with a wire brush first. I think, at that point, you will be able to see where the hub stops and the dust cover begins. Tap and pry all the way around between the hub and dust cover like 1958GMCnut says. If you do tear it up getting it off, they are cheap and common. GM used the pretty much the same size for years.

Once you have the dust cover off, use a throw away rag or paper towel to wipe away the old grease. Be careful, there may be sharp edges from POs wrenching. You'll then see the cotter pin, (looks like a really heavy duty hair pin,) washer, and nut I mentioned before. Remove the cotter pin by bending the ends straight and prying or pulling the "round" end. Back the nut off a bit and pull on the drum. The washer and outer bearing will usually pop or slide out behind the nut.

Enough for now. You'll get it! I did my first front brake job on a 1949 Pontiac when I was your age.

Remember, SAFETY! SAFETY! SAFETY! Get the shop manual!!!

Well, I figured the dust cover out last night, but didn't get a chance to pull the drum until today. So, I took the cover back off, took out the pin, got the nut off, and then pulled off the drum and nothing, not even the washer had to be taken out or off! Looked at the drum pads(what is the name?) and they look like they seriously need replaced but it was getting dark so I can't tell. The brake cylinder is very rusted and probably needs replaced. This was on the driver front.

don't forget to replace the cotter pin with a new one before you drive....

Well now, I'm thinking..... Hmmm, lets see. I gather from this thread that most of you say that I should work out the brakes first, right? Or the engine? Starter causes me not to be able to start the truck, so right now I can't get it running and it will probably be some time until I can get it fixed. So, should I go ahead and order brake parts and if so what all should I order? I know I need brake lines-3 out of 4 on the truck were so bad that they rusted off. I don't know if I need any brake wheel cylinders but should I order new ones anyway? If you would be so kind as to type out a list so as I know ALL of what to order so I don't have to make multiple orders because I forget something? The main reason for me wanting a list to know what to order is that I have no idea what all of the parts I may need are, meaning that there may be something I don't even know exists that I need.

Do the brakes first, That way you won't be skeert to take it for a spin in the field.(by spin I mean mud flinging, donut making spin)
I remember my first donut - good times... , (happy)

Ok then, now I need to know EVERYTHING I need to order-should order.

jdl: for some reason I want to say that I would try get the engine running first. Before I spent money elsewhere I would want to know if the engine is ok or good enough to drive for awhile. IF the engine turns out to be a major problem I don't think I would want the braks redone and then the truck have to just sit there.
If the engine is OK and then the brakes are the only thing keeping you from taking a spin I would be willing to donate a set of shoes for either the front or back!

Just my opinion. Lets see what other folks have to say!

First take the wheel and master cylinders off and apart to see if there's any pitting/grooves on the walls of the cylinders. The cheaper route would be to rebuild your old ones. If there is too much pitting on any of them, you would be better off buying a replacement for it/them. Get all lines new. I think you would be better off buying ones pre-bent for your truck.

Addition : Hey free parts? - go for the engine first. We're dying to read that it runs... Didn't someone have some 12V stuff for you?

Yeah, achipmunk, I was sort of thinking that too, and I appreciate the offer, you know I'll take everything I need that I can get! I don't know when I can get the starter fixed IF it is fixable, and after that there's the matter of the distributor points that don't seem to want to work. Tabdoo16 pointed me to look at this so that I could just get rid of them and not have to worry about that anymore. If I get those two things straightened out I can work on getting the truck running. I really wish that my brother would do what he said he'd do and take my truck over to my neighbors where they will work on it. After I get it running, which I think that it really will, the engine looks clean and when it turned over there's no knocking noise so if something is bent or bad it's not horrible. After it runs, hopefully the brakes can be fixed quickly and then it's on to hole plugging and all that.

54Tow, yeah, someone, Namely Koolkar, which I haven't heard from in a few weeks, said that he'd help me convert the truck to 12v. I'm going to see if I can get a hold of him and see how he's doing and if he can help soon. He might even have a starter laying around... He told me he was going to bring an alternator and a ballast resistor for the gauges. If all that works out I won't have to worry about buying a generator or an alternator or anything like that.

A bit off topic, but It's been almost a month since he has posted anything. I hope all is well. Didn't he have an operation?

Yeah, and I'm sure he doesn't want to cause worry, and I don't know much myself, but last I heard he was having some problems but he DID say that he might be able to make it during summer break-which is two weeks from now.

Well, you could check out the brakes in the meantime... They don't work anyway, right?

If the brake lines are rusted out, you are gonna need all new brake lines, wheel cylinders, and probably a master cylinder. Brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air, so if you have open lines, your gonna have rust everywhere in the whole brake system. When you get the brake drums off, check that none of the springs or clips that hold and return the brake shoes are broken or rusted out. This includes the brake backing plates(the round metal plate behind the brake shoes). I gotta feelin that you are gonna find major rust in the wheel cylinders and master cylinder and they are cheap enough that I would not even attempt to rebuild them. It sounds like you need a complete brake system. DO NOT SCRIMP ON THE BRAKES(not yellin atcha but stressin a point). Get the motor running first and the transmission shifting and then deal with the brakes. Just my opinion, Joe