Most folks offset them just a wee bit...maybe a couple of mm or so. You shouldn't need any RTV at the ends, but they say to use non-hardening gasket sealer where the seal fits into the cap & block groove. I'm sure you've already handled this part but the mating surface on the crank needs to be polished very well. If it is pitted from the use of a rope seal (and they will be) then the neoprene seal will last only a brief time before it loses its lip. The best thing may be to add a Speedi-Sleeve on your crankshaft's end (the mating surface). If you do that, add some red Threadlocker and you can consider leaving the lip so that it will act as a slinger after you hammer the Speedi-Sleeve in place. You'll see 2 grooves in your end cap. If the lip on the Speedi-Sleeve is left so that it fits right next to the back side of the inner groove (but doesn't touch it), then oil leaving the rear bearing will run straight back and will be slung up into the first groove (so you'll have less there to make its way to the seal). Now having said what I said about offsetting the 2 pieces, around 2000 I talked to a fellow at Fel-Pro who was retiring. He was one of their engineers and impressed me as a pretty smart man. He said they had stopped suggesting people offset the seal pieces...that their research showed it was of minimal benefit and that the seal was designed so that end pressure would form a fine seal without offsetting the two pieces. He added it provided some confusion which the company wanted to avoid. Apparently some folks had decided if a bit of offset was good a whole lot of offset was better so they were trying to rotate the two pieces around the surface so the ends sat opposed vertically...which was causing trouble. So, who knows? Anyhow good luck with it.
