Due to the lack of power steering on the '37 and the fact she handles like a wet sponge I have been considering swapping out the chassis and finding something newer to bolt the '37's body onto... (and yes I have considered electric power steering but most units bolt up to rack and pinion steering NOT the antiquated original equipment that came with my truck)...
Various ebay sellers I have seen and articles I have read suggest that a Toyota Tacoma chassis can be used while others say a Chevy S-10 chassis is the way to go...
Has anyone here ever done such a swap and if so what make/model/year of chassis did they use and what is easiest? What would be the closest match for a 1/2 ton '37's stock wheelbase?
Your thoughts and ideas are appreciated... thanks guys!
hey trev, which ever way you decide to go, chassis, front clip. or a kit I would advise to do the "paperwork" before finally deciding. I'm sure some are better than others but both time and money seem to have a way of getting out of hand once your committed.
I think you know I kept my original chassis and put the Stang II under mine. I have no regrets but if "I" did it again I would probably go with a front clip....off say a Camaro. It also depends on whats available to you as far as parts and labor.
Opinions are fine too Alvin... I value yours... remember I've seen that gorgeous truck of yours!
Personally seeing how expensive clips are it gets more tempting just to bolt the body omto another chassis (if there is one that is very close or an exact match) and with so many people dumping their older vehicles on the market I know I could get an older S-10 or Toyota for a song... ideally I could bolt in a good engine and tranny, bolt up the body panels and have a truck that runs and drives well and doesn't require the arms of Mr. Universe to steer it!
There are a few S-10 swaps on the HAMB. Not sure that I would do a chassis swap if you have a good frame to start with.
I also would not advocate a M2 swap (I just dont like them)
My advise would be keep the straight axle and go with a Toyota MR2 hydro-electric pump for the power steering. If you cant find one, I do have a source for a 2gpm continuous duty 12V DC power unit.
Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Thanks Scott but will an MR2 hydro electric pump work with my existing steering and suspension or are we still talking about having to install a clip to make it work as well?
I'll see if the MR2 part may be available locally and get back to you here... if it just bolts in you're right... no need to go though a "major surgery" when a minor one will do!
leave it be..............if you want a good ride buy a beemer
Redryder pix My Hotrod A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life." I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.
I have the '37 that Truckedup (Tony P) built - original chassis with disk brakes on original spindles. Gas tube shocks, mono leaf front springs with a couple of added leafs. Front antisway bar. Lowered about two inches. Radials. Big heavy GMC 302 engine. It runs like a scalded dog and is stable at over ninety (I haven't found the speed that seems too fast with this truck yet). If you put a new chassis under it, it won't be a '37 anymore.
Last edited by LAROKE; 10/20/200910:05 PM. Reason: spelin' . . . it's always spelin'
he could bag it, put a old Hemi in it and be good to go..
I have a check ready for your truck larry, let me know what to fill in and where to send it..
Redryder pix My Hotrod A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life." I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.
leave it be..............if you want a good ride buy a beemer
I have no intention of "leaving it be", Fred... at the very least it needs power steering to be ANY pleasure to drive...
I can deal with breathing out of my kneecaps because the cab is way too small for someone 6 feet or up like myself, and can deal with a lot of her other issues but trying to turn the steering wheel with the wider tires unless the truck is in motion is torture and is literally impossible if you're at a dead stop...
With the one small addition of power steering at least she'd be more fun to drive and isn't that supposed to be the idea to enjoy your classic truck?
Oh and if I wanted a new vehicle I already have two brand new Mazda's in my driveway and for the record declined a serious offer this past summer to trade a brand new Lexus for my '55 Belair so comfort is clearly the issue here, not getting into some yuppy-vehicle! I just want to enjoy driving the '37 as much as I do the '55!
I'm konfusd. It's a old truck. It's not 'sposed to be comfortable. You're missing out on the whole culture of the thing.
After drivin' my trucks on a roadtrip for ten hours or so, I'm sweaty. My ears are buzzin and my vision is blurry. I'm bone tired. I know I'm alive . . . I just don't know how much longer.
I drove my 52 truck 500 plus miles to Kansas, City and back, no power, no air, drum brakes, and loved ever min of it..
I know , you younger folks want ever thing easy........lol
but it is your truck, do as you see fit..
ok Larry, just keep me in mind...when that time comes..
Redryder pix My Hotrod A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life." I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.
i put my 1938 gmc truck on a 1985 chevy full size 1/2 frame and almost all my 1941-46 chevy trucks on a 1977 up truck frame , but 1973-87 chevy/gmc frame will work.thansk
Last edited by 1946chevypickup; 10/20/200911:24 PM. Reason: w
Larry, I thought I was the only beat down after a long trip! I would still drive the '37 evryday if the insurance company would let me. Beat till you are silly in a old truck is the only way to go......
Trev, swap out those wide tires for some VW tires, and replace the original steering with a '40-'46 box, and you will be supprised how eay it will turn.
Thanks for the benefit of your experience 1946chevypickup... I'll do a little research if the MR2 idea doesn't come through and see if we have a match...
As for driving distance that's not an issue in the '37 Fred... it's the lack of power steering in small confined spaces and trying to turn the steering wheel to get out of a cramped parking spot if someone boxes you in for example... unless you can get the tires to spin she does NOT want to steer with the bigger thicker rubber and much smaller steering wheel she has in her...
In any case as you so nicely pointed out it is my truck and that is what I want to do and feel I need to do to make it a bit more comfortable to drive so that's what's going to happen... the other option would be to just cut back to the Belair which is a dream to drive, and sell the '37 and I'm not quite sure I'm ready to do that just yet!
Before you get started, do as Alvin mentioned and start 'The Paperwork".
First: What is the wheelbase (front to back) and track (side to side) of the '37? By starting here, you will be able to decide which vehicle will closest fit the existing frame. Remember, wheelbase can be changed fairly easily (shortening is easier than lengthening, but it can still be done), but it is very difficult to change the track of the wheels and tires. Do you want the tires tucked up into the fenders or sitting outside of them?
Once you have the above figured out, decide on how you will drive the finished truck. Remember, S-10's came with I-4's or V-6's. Yes, you can bolt a V-8 into one, but you are adding a lot of work. The reason I mention this is: if you intend on lots of cruising or highway driving, the smaller engine may do you just fine and give you better mileage (and gas will not be getting any less expensive in the future!). You may want a larger engine if you want to 'light them up' on a regular basis.
I seem to recall a problem with the S-10 (or S-15) swap and the radiator in an AD truck, I think the rad has to be leaned back slightly to clear the sheetmetal. I'm sure your '37 is a bit smaller than an AD, so you may have to break out a tape measure and do some more homework.
I know how you feel about the good old "Armstrong Steering" and fully understand why you wish to change.
You will have to do a good bit of homework before starting on this swap.
Thanks Lane... as I said ealier Scott's idea about the MR2 power steering may very well solve the whole problem so I'll start small and if that doesn't provide a solution then the measuring tape comes out and we go from there...
As for the S-10 I had been thinking many of them up here came with a 4.3 L which I believed to be a V-8 so I didn't think that part of the job would be the sticking point...
Oh well I guess once I learn more about the MR2 steering I'll be in a better position to make a decision... personally the smaller and easier the job is the better I like it!
Check out these guys for a S-10 swap on the 37 Ive heard it's a easy swap but Ive never done one I WISH I would have found this when I did my 51 !!! It's okay to think out of the box and it dont have to be a drag to drive a old truck, The heck with the whole "culture of the thing" I like the comfort thing myself also. Try the HiPo Forum you'll get some other ideas there too.
Some people are like Slinkies, Their not really good for nothing... But they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.
Hopefully it doesn't hurt to be comfortable either bro... by contrast driving the Bel Air is like riding on a cloud and it would be nice to have a second comfortable old vehicle to cruise in!
I put a 41-6 steering box on my 37 and it steers a little easier and and no need for p/s,like mentioned before do some home work before you do anything. Some serious cutting sometimes needs to be done when putting on a newer chassis.
Trev, The MR2 electric pump is just that. A motor, reservoir, pump, solenoid valve, rubber bracket, etc. in a nice small package. It is available on the Generation 2 (91-95) toyota MR2's. It is a common swap for Audi Quattro guys that run rally racing in the earlier chassis because the hydraulic pump runs both the brakes and steering and is a HP hog.
This is also a common swap for those turning S-10's into electric vehicles. Simply mount the reservoir and plumb to your power box.
However these are getting scarce, hence the alternative source that I found. I will be running one in my '53 Frankentruk as the diesel I have only has room to add the AC compressor. So to run power brakes and power steering, I am going with an electric pump.
Yes, other than a few corporate test vehicles, GM never made an S-series vehicle with a V8 for the general public. So if you have an S-10, the existing engine can be anything from an Isuzu 1.8 to Cavalier 2.0 to Isuzu diesel to 2.5 tech-4 to the 2.8/3.1 V6 to the 4.3 V6.
Feel free to PM, Email, or call me to discuss various electric power steering pump options.
Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
I did the s-10 front clip swap on my 1945 gmc because i got the s10 for free! I really wish i had used a nova or camaro front end instead . The s10 did work but was really narrow compared to the stock front Axel , and i was running 57 Chevy car 14in wheels with whits walls and they would not fit over the over the brake rotors so i had to get wheels spacers ! Yes i know allot of this could of been avoided if i had done more research first , but that's just my experience with the 45 and the s10 !!
Thanks for the info, Scott... I'll do a bit of searching and see if there are any MR2's of those model years available... sounds like if you can find the part you've solved a big part of the problem as long as adapting it to work isn't too problematic and a conversion to rack and pinion steering isn't required too (is it?)
As for your "alternative source" do you mean source for the MR2 part or something else entirely that will work?
I'm off to Craigslist to try to find a wrecked MR2... wish me luck!
Thanks for the info... oh and thanks to oldsoul too for the warnings of not doing your homework enough! I'll do a lot more research or talk to people who know before I attempt this!
The alternative source is a mobile industrial hydraulic pump. like those for plows, lift gates, etc. They assemble to order with either continuous duty motors or intermittent duty motors. I looked into marine out-drive hydraulic pumps, however they are only intermittent duty.
I did find a cheaper source from China, however I wasnt getting the warm-fuzzy feeling as the source made in the good ol' USA.
A rack conversion is not needed Run the pressure side of the pump to the input side of the steering box, run the return line back to the pump - add fluid. Although a rack is cheep, it would be difficult on a straight axle.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Will some of you that have non-power steering,please tell Trev,what diameter your steering wheel is,also what size rims and tire you have.Trev has an after market steering wheel[about 14"],wide tires.He has a b***ch of a time steering this thing
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Will some of you that have non-power steering,please tell Trev,what diameter your steering wheel is,also what size rims and tire you have.Trev has an after market steering wheel[about 14"],wide tires.He has a b***ch of a time steering this thing
I don't need anyone to tell me that the combination of factors I've added to the '37 has created a "perfect storm" for not being able to steer it without installing ps... I know it! I'm just out to overcome it without going back to skinny tires or a steering wheel the size of a beach ball! I'm sure with stock tires and a huge wheel (and some arm room) this thing would steer much better... I just have no interest in it looking like that!
I know what you mean about those crappy offshore parts and they make me feel less than warm and fuzzy too... I only have 2 on my '37 and BOTH have caused me problems and will likely continue to! :mad:
I took a look at Craigslist and so far the only EPS I have located is on a Honda S2000 and is going for $200... 3B tells me that would require rack and pinion steering to be installed first so I guess that one's out...
I'll check the links you sent and see if I can get lucky and find something I need that will work... hope so!
If you have a good steering box,king pins and every thing greased up they really dont need power steering as they are not that heavy of a vehicle,if you have a health reason to need it I can see adding it and with the small cab there is not much room to manuver around in there. I noticed a big difference going to the 41-6 box and with me being over 6 foot tall and about 220 pounds it does just fine with out p/s with the stock steering wheel,I would hate to see you put it on a late model frame as you have to do a bunch of cutting to get them to fit and will loose some bed space as the frames have a kick up behind the cab.
I got to thinking about this more after i went to work . What i did find that worked really good for me on rear was to use the s10 springs and perches .They road really good and where also cheap and easy to install. I do have some pics if you want !
Funny you would say that Oldsoul... My original rear leaf springs and shackles had to be replaced before my safety inspection would clear and mine were replaced with S-10 springs as well...
Still trying to deal with getting the shackles done right (the mechanic that did the job was completely brain dead and screwed it up welding one end of the shackles to the frame) but my truck already has S-10 parts in it!
When I get to work today, I will look up the quote that I had gotten a while back. I believe it was about $250 +/-50
Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
I ended up requesting a new quote. I had gotten a quote from Monarch, however I looked at the pressure and flow rate that I had quoted, and it would be more than needed.
I will keep you informed.
Scott
ps, only two listed on car-part.com
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
