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Joined: Apr 2005
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'Bolter
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I had a chevy small block that sat in my garage that was froze up on all cylinders. I decided to try some of the things that people have talked about for freeing them up. I put something different in 4 cylinders to see what would happen. I left it sit for over a month.

1. Coke - Didn't work very well. I used it once on a small mini bike tire that was rusted to the rim. It did break that loose.

2. Diet Coke - Didn't work any better than regular Coke.

3. WD-40 - Worked better than Coke and did remove some of the rust from the cylinder wall.

4. Oil of Peppermint - It seemed to work better as far as loosening up and penetrating compared to the other three. Way too expensive to use with the little results though.

I'm going to try to unstick another motor soon. I would like to try it with some other products or methods. Kroil and PB Blaster are next.

Anybody have any other off the wall methods?

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B
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Peanut Butter.

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E
'Bolter
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Peanut Butter? how would that work?

Ed

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B
'Bolter
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Well, I did ask for off the wall methods.

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E
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I think it might stick to the roof of your pistons. smile

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Wrench Fetcher
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brake fluid

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Two things I've heard suggest that you didn't mention are:

diesel

marvel's mystery oil


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
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Molasses?


Tempest

"Find Your Inner Truck"

Silly Boys! - Trucks are for Girls!

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1951 Chevy 2-Ton
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E
'Bolter
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So anyway back to the peanut butter, does it have some sort of acidic (i'm sure I spelled this wrong) base or something?

Ed

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O
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Gibbs Brand. You'll have to order it online, and its 14$ a can, but there is nothing it can't do.

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B
'Bolter
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I've heard of Molasses on metal, but I think it will eat aluminum if I remember correctly.

If peanut butter has something that will penetrate, I would say peanut butter oil instead of peanut butter.

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Acidic is the correct spelling. The peanut oil in it will get rancid after time and produce acidic compounds (there is an expiration date on peanut butter). By all means use the creamy type if you are going to try this method (Ha Ha).
Remember that if you do get it unstuck, the PB might gum up the small oil passages. I would stick to the solvent based products with something to break up any rust.


41 Chev 2dr coupe
51 3100 w/a 261
11 Camaro RS ragtop
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hey there mtdewman,
I have family in Keokuk, my grampa just passed this spring from Keokuk. Going to the KC Truckshow next month?

Anyway, becareful, that peanut butter will attract mice to your shop, LOL.
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
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L
'Bolter
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I heard of a guy that soaked a 4 bolt main smallbock in deisel feul or a week, then set it on fire. It must have worken, as he put that engine in an Impala.


Bill Burmeister
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Have someone push you then dump the clutch.


delete my account and pictures
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BUILDER
this stuff works great!!!
http://www.mousemilk.com/index.html

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1 part diesel and 1 part automatic transmission fluid. Keep it soaked. Put it in low gear and rock the wheels back and forth gently once a day / week. I've seen this used to unstick tractors that have been sitting in the fence row for a decade or more.

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loosey goosey is made out of kerosene. i have some of that stuff that i got from work, it's like kroil. i broke loose an old froze 216 with it. tom


I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!
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How about the shifter in my dump truck, can't get it outta gear! I'll worry about the engine next. LOL wink

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OK OK OK....time to reveal my secret formula.....
Yes..... << STUFF >>......
In a large container blend the following....
1 Quart Marvel Mystery oil
1 Quart Dot-3 brake fluid
1 Quart Stove oil (well we are working on
stovebolts..right?) or plain diesel oil
1 quart ATF (type-F)
Mix well fill each cyl. to the top and allow to sit for a week or so........
Then procede to rock the crank back-n-forth.. till you can make a full revalution.....

I've used this "blend" on lots of stuck engines.. including one-lungers that were so stuck...they have "fuzz growing...
Michael


\'48 chev 2-ton boom truck (Boomer)
'49 Chev 2-ton flat bed
'65 Chev 35ft school bus
'88 GMC 6500
'72 Superior 26ft class "A" coach
'50 Farmall "M"
'71 MGB GT
'68 Austin-Healey Sprite
'65 Austin-Healey Sprite
and various other odd British cars
and lots of old radios.....

Although we know what the speed of light is..... What I want to know is... How fast is the speed of DARK??
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F
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Man, i've unstuck a bunch of motors in the last 2 years..every one of 'em with WD40.

Buy the stuff by the gallon, not the spray can.. take out the plugs, and fill the cylinders full with WD40.. then take off the valve cover(s) and really coat the heck out of everything.

Put the plugs back in, set the valve covers back in place, and let it sit and soak for about 6 hours.

Come back after six hours and check to see that all the cylinders are full of WD40.. if not, fill 'em back up, and put the plugs back in.

The idea here is to let the WD40 do it's work.. breaking up all that rust.. then after a few days of soaking, get under the vehicle with a breaker bar and try to rock the engine back and forth by putting your breaker bar on one of the flywheel bolts.. make sure the trucks wheels are blocked, the sparkplugs are out, and that the tranny is in neutral!

If she still won't budge, fill the cylinders with WD40 again, put the plugs back in, and let it sit another 24 hours and try again.

Some dudes reccomend PBBlaster, other folks have said Kerosene is the stuff to use.. regardless of your fluid of choice, the general idea is to break up any rust that is preventing the pistons from sliding up and down in the cylinders, as well as any rust that may be keeping valves from opening and closing, or inhibiting the free travel of the push rods, etc.

I don't think i'd use Coke.. just because whatever rust it eats will be replaced with gooey sugary muck.

I'm sure brake fluid would do the trick, too.. but brake fluid is pretty nasty stuff.. it might eat your piston rings right along with the rust.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
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'Bolter
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The thing I want to get away from when unsticking a motor is that when I have to pound a piston out, it makes grooves in the cylinder. Many times they are too deep to get out in .020" bore. I would like to eliminate having to resleeve or going another size over.

When I think of it, If a guy used some muratic acid, it would eat the aluminum piston pretty quick. I would replace the pistons anyway if they are that stuck, so what would the harm be? As long as the muratic acis wasn't left in too long the cylinder should be OK.

What do you guys think?

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Builder, using muratic acid used to be the "trick" years ago when working on two stroke dirt bike motors. I remember repairing a Hodaka 90 that had been run on straight gas and seized apiston(the kid said it was runing real good right before it quit)LOL! I knocked the piston out used a qtip with muratic acid to eat the alum off the steel sleeve in the cylinder, cleaned up the piston with sandpaper, a new set of rings and top end gaskets and Here you go kid break it again!

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MARVEL MYSTERY OIL! Between my brother, my dad, and myself we have freed up more engines than I can remember! Letting it soak is the key! R&G

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I have had good luck with diesel and auto trans fluid. All of the replies will work just depends on what you have available. I have a 216 that I am about ready to try and free up and will be using diesel and trans fluid.


Heres to us and those like us, theres darn few left.
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Quote
Originally posted by OKSoda:
Gibbs Brand. You'll have to order it online, and its 14$ a can, but there is nothing it can't do.
And here is where you can get it:
www.GetGIBBS.com


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
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I've used diesel, penetrating oil, and wd40.
Oh, I also welded a nut to the harmonic balancer and used a 3/4 drive ratchet to free it up. That one probably worked the best and was the quickest.

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1
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had a 49' hudson that sat for 25+ years flat 6 filled the cyinders with diesel walked away for the weekend and freed up motor.ATF works good also. nice thing about that is the cost free! save some next time you service the old lady's car

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well i work in a Major cabinet shop producing kitchens , and we have to keep the humidity at at least 85% 24/7 to keep the product stable during production .
and the machines most are bigger than my Bolt ..when ya go to take a bearing off a shaft or any other maint issue with a part that has been on for a long time, sometimes yrs !in that humidity are rusted fast ....we found that PB BLASTER and patience ...im not talkin days ...but a good amount of hrs ...THE STUFF JUST WORKS !..
never had to soak a stuck motor down ..but i would bet you would be suprised !try the PB


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
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Any of the thinner oils are good. diese and ATF works great. I think I would stay away from brake fliud, It has a nasty habbit of drawing moister. Just look in your old wheel and master cylinders. Coke no. Peanut buter no. High doller items not nessisary.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
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I am with the guys for Marvel Mystery Oil...works like a charm when you let it soak good.

You can always add a shot of Jack while your at it...one for the truck...one for the guy working on it.


1946 Chevy Pickip
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There ya go Zipper I'm with ya.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
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