The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Soldering

Ok, I am trying to get a 1954 chevy 3100 and it seems to be complete except for the rust holes in the floor. I was wondering if it is possible to solder a part in instead of using a welder if you don't have one.

Thanks, JDL

Brazing is about the only "soldering" you can do to sheetmetal. The weld needs to be as strong as the metal it's holding together, especially when it comes to structural pieces. If it were mine, I wouldn't feel comfortable using solder.
Scott

I second that, 48.
If you don't have a welder or the means to have it welded. You might think about (depending on the size and number of holes) riveting some temporary pieces in till you find someone who could fix it permanently by welding in new floor pans.

By the way JDL, welcome to the bolt.

HC

welcome to the garage JDL, you found the place for info about the ol rig
soldering works well as a filler for pinholes ... as in "leading", but like Scott sez, not a real rust repair option, time to get an inexpensive MIG

Bill

I think that I can have one of my neighbors weld in something if I need it but I wasn't sure if you could possibly solder sheetmetal.
I am only 12 so I am kind of limited to tools except for what my neighbors/friends have

I am assuming our young stovebolter is refering to what is commonly called soft soldering. Whereas brazing would be called hard soldering. Sheet metal can be soldered without any problems. The thing is soldering is mainly used for sealing. To the best of my limited knowledge it has never been used for structural purposes in the automotive industry. Although there has probably been someone who has built a car body by soldering the panels together.

The newer cars have a lot of panels that are attached with glue. This seems to work very well for patch panels. The question I think you need to answer is this. Are the repairs structural or cosmetic. If it is structural, and remember the floor is pretty much all structural, then welding is what is required to maintain the support for the rest of the cab.

If there were just a few small holes that you wanted to seal in the floor, soldering or glueing would be OK.

You will soon be in High School. Most High Schools have some form of vocational classes. Visit your local High School and see if they have an auto shop or metal shop. With the right instructor, this can be a great resourse.

Do some searches online for auto body sites, you will find a wealth of information about repairing sheet metal.

Good luck on your project. I did not get my first Advance Design truck until I was 17, that was 40 years ago. I have loved the design ever since. Have fun, look around your community for someone else that is restoring an old car or truck and partner with them. They can teach you alot.

I was kind of hoping to get the truck and fix it just enough to where it would run good and not have any major holes so when I get into high school I could restore the truck properly. The floor has 2 or 3 small-medium sized holes excluding the battery box which doesn't have a battery in it any more because it is under the hood. I was thinking of just soldering in some metal that I have and then doing it right in high school. But I really think that I can get my neighbor to weld it in. Also the holes seem to not have any structural effect on the floor.

I'm thinking " pop rivets " Easy to install and easy to remove when time.

get some POR-15 and some fiberglass fabric.... the POR-15 will treat the rust, and the fiberglass will make it solid for you.

If I get an extra $100 dollars I'll order from American Classic Truck Parts and buy a whole new floor


Rusty Rod: I have no idea where to get that.

2 or 3! Thats far better then most of us!

Welcome to the bolt, lots of good info here. Just remember we really like pictures! Good luck!

Jeff

HI I have always used silver solder for soldering the panels before I bought a tig outfit. The silver solder melts at lower tempature then brass and a bit hotter then lead. Its more expensive then both though.Sure is nice to work with as it flows beautifully. Just a thought.

Welcome JDL,
Don't forget that plywood could temporary cover those holes until more permanent repairs can be made. A couple screws could be used to hold in place and easily removed after. Stick around and you'll learn a lot. There is a wealth of knowledge here. Good luck and have fun
Dan

I agree with Dan, a wealth of knowledge is an understatement. This site is my favorite place... on the internet. :)welcome aboard.

Thanks Dave and Chev4t6, I had thought about using tin but I know that I didn't want to do this. Thanks for the idea of using wood (I even have a piece of plywood big enough to cover the whole floor)and telling me that someone else has soldered in panels. As stated earlier in my first post, I am trying to convince (who other than my mom) to let me buy the truck. I think I am gaining progress since I have been talking about the truck for about two years (nonstop). I even had the $200 last Christmas to buy it but my mom wouldn't let me.

This is to jdl's mom.

As I look around today at the activities of most young men, that is 12 year olds, I see them focused on things that are unconstructive and in some cases would cause them to seek approval from other means. I was just like your son when I was his age. Always working on something mechanical. I was always draging home some wreck to work on. The things I learned and the love of old trucks has never left me. A mother would be blessed to know where her son was at all times, I know my mother was. It was as easy as opening the kitchen door and there I was in the garage turning wrenches on some old car. Yes there was grease and dirt that she did not like but I think if I asked her today if she would have rather put up with the dirt and grease or have me off some where with some unsavory friends she would pick the grease. I can not think of a better investment in good old family closeness than $200 for an old truck. I would love to have a young man in the neighborhood to help me with my 54 chevy and I could help him develop a life long love of those thing that were built to last but a few years but have become timeless.

FYI gas welding done right is just as strong as mig welding and if you have learned gas welding you are experienced in TIG welding; it's pretty much the same.
jdl get that 54 and begin to get it ready to drive. You have 4 years and will have a real neat ride by then.

When I was 12 there was a 1930 Chevrolet Coupe completely original sitting at a local gas station for sale... $300. My mother was good with the idea, my father wasn't. I never got the car and often wonder what ever happened to it.

Hey mom! Let the kid buy the thing. What's it going to hurt?

Hey jdl, welcome to the Bolt.

If you just want to patch it up so your feet don't drag on the pavement just get some construction adhesive and glue metal or plywood over the holes until you can do a proper repair.

Working with metal isn't something you're going to learn by reading, it takes hands on under the guidance of a teacher. Hopefully you have access to a training program either in HS or Vocational School but in the meantime there is a lot of research to do and you could even start with little projects like fixing little things... heck, if you can read and follow instructions you can rebuild the carb.

Good luck and I hope to hear some good news from you in the years to come.

Thanks guys for all of the responses. I just wanted to let you know that I will be sticking around for advice and that I think your comments have affected my mom. I only need $35 more to buy the truck. The owner which is my friends dad said that the previous owner had started to restore the truck. It has a side spare tire mount, original radio with fm converter, 8track player, and lots of rust.
Also has stoplights and turnsignals.

Heck, if it has a side mount spare, you could part the truck out if it's too rusty and make a nice profit in the bargain... Nahhh, what fun is that?

So when do we get to see photos?

Czechman, I wouldn't do that with this truck as it will be my first truck anyway and I don't think that it is too rusty. It just has a lot of surface rust . You may get to see pics when I get the truck and figure out how the scanner works to get them on the website. For some reason the truck has a hole in the fire wall that seems to be the exact shape for a repair panel. But other than that it seems in good shape. It even has the original 235 motor and it runs(hopefully).

Good for you!

jdl: sound like you got a plan. Stay with it and don't let age hinder you I wish you lived close by so I could help you! You could join a couple of the other young guns that come to my house to work on their trucks...or get me to do it

For a temporary repair, just to close up the holes, the person who mentioned pop rivets is right on!! Get yourself a piece of galvanized valley tin from the home center, and a pop rivet tool and have at it! While you're at the home center, pick up a quart of roofing tar. Between it and the tin, you can make your cab weather-tight enough to drive until you get the time and money to make a more permanent fix.

Good luck with your project!

The wood will work well or if you want to use sheetmetal, you can get self drilling sheetmetal screws at your local hardware store most likely. If you've got access to a drill, cordless or electric, with the right sized driver you can make short work of that floor board! Good luck and yes it's good to see someone as young as you interested in old trucks!

Just an FYI - Most body shops charge about a buck an inch for welding

Scott

JDL,

Lots of good advice here. If you have a drill and a driver self drilling/tapping screws may be the easiest/cheapest way to do a temp repair like Rob said. I had to undo some previous welded and riveted work on my truck not so much fun. I also used the screws to hold parts like my rocker panels and cab mounts in place for welding. They are very cheap and remove as easily as the drive in.

I am so impressed to see someone your age tackle a project like this. I wish I started earlier in life. It will give you many hours of enjoyment as well as an appreciation of the history and evolution of american iron. I wish you all the best.

Now get some pics posted so we can see your project!

Thanks everyone, I have to get $34 more to have enough money for the truck. Then I have to get it 5 miles home and hopefully it can withstand the ride/tow home. I hope the tires air up so I can get it home. I think they will as my friend's dad who owns the truck has aired them up before but they kind of looked old. I can hardly wait to get it home as it is the only thing I have basically thought of/wanted for the past 2 years.

Thanks, JDL.

I know there's a lot of nice people in Indiana,someone should help JDL get his truck home.I would if I was closer.
JDL,let us know what town you are close to.
----------------------
Floyd

I live in Marco, which is in Greene County(Southwestern Indiana). It is close to Linton, which is about the only town that is big enough to mention around here. I will let you know when I have enough money to buy the truck. I need $14 dollars. I am currently doing chores to get the money. When I have the money I can finally focus on trying to get it home. I can't wait to get the truck!

P.S. If some of you want an idea of what the truck looks like(although I can't really remember what the truck looks like as I was excited and it was a year ago that I last looked at the truck) go to the gallery and look at Kevin Haney's 54 1/2 ton.

P.S. again, does anybody on here even live in or close to Southwestern Indiana?

Also, I'm kind of close(depending on what some of you call close) to Washington, Vincennes, Bloomington, and Terre Haute.

I'm in Fort Wayne. Try Longbox55, he is in Danville, IL and that's probably closer than me. I'll PM you a few other folks around the state.

For 12, you have good signiture, even if I am from a mixed household.

Well, 57_Stepside, I'm not sure about how to ask them to come all the way to my house to get a truck to bring it only 5 miles, but if they want to they can. I found GL Perry on the site but I'm not sure if he's still living in Indiana anymore or even visits the site often. If anyone who wants to spend the time to help me they can.

Ok, I have a topic on how I could get my future truck home and it looks like I have a solution. Since it is only a few miles away, I will probably just pull it home. So I guess no one has to come a long way just to help me get my truck home a couple of miles.

Boy, was I wrong! This brings back some memories that were so little(and a bunch of big ones) that I forgot about them. Most of my floorboard is there, just the medium(4x4 approximate inches)holes on the passenger side and the weakened metal on the driver's side by the door, and half of the kick panels. Where is it that I could get tin? I have some but it is the ~~~~~~~~~~ kind.

~~~~~~~~~~ = what it looks like.

flat 20 gauge [heavier than used on the body] sheet metal from any sheet metal shop - HVAC places [heating, ventilation, air conditioning] - or check some body shops and see where they get their body metal

Bill