So just thinking about this all the time, I am coming up with the following. Tell me where I need to alter the idea...
1) There are only two valid conditions (not 4) because the stock points distributor gap number should be what's in the shop manual for optimum performance. .035
Then there is only one HEI number that matters and that is the HEI plug gap which in my research is .045. You would never gap an HEI system to .035 and you would never gap a points distributor to .045.
However, I want to do 4 tests anyway because a lot of old codgers out there mention your points system runs better if you gap to .040.
I want to also include a HEI gap of .050 just because.
So,
Test one: Points Distributor (.016 points gap) with stock coil using ballast resistor with plugs gapped to .035.
Test two: Points Distributor (.016 points gap) with stock coil using ballast resistor with plugs gapped to .040.
Test three: HEI Distributor (.007 reluctor gap) with HEI coil (45,000 volt) no ballast with plugs gapped to .045.
Test four: HEI Distributor (.007 reluctor gap) with HEI coil (45,000 volt) no ballast with plugs gapped to .050.
I will use a 28 ounce bottle attached to the top of my gas tank on the Start Kart. It's a little larger than 28 oz, so when it hits the 28 oz. mark, I will hit the stop watch. When it gets down to 4 oz. I will stop the stop watch.
Doing it this way, the engine is running and warm before it ever hits the 28 oz line so the results will be more exact.
I can then take the time it takes for 24 ounces to run through the engine and compare the differences. Of course, I will then do this same test over again in reverse order to see how repeatable the test is. By then calculating how long the engine runs on 1 ounce of gas, we can correlate just how much the difference really is.
My thinking just because we are dealing with mechanical fuel pumps and carbs, to go about 10 minutes or so, so the time it takes to run 24 ounces will be interesting.
Also, the RPM will be just under the RPM when the mechanical advance kicks in or about 1000 RPM. All of this is of course negotiable, so please if you want me to do this different, say so. I won't be able to get to this for about another week, but it seems to me like a worthwhile project.
Should I take vacuum readings or at least record the vac readings while I am at it? What else?
Like Sam Kinison liked to say.. SAY IT!!! SAAAAY IT!!
The weather is not an issue because my shop is at a constant 74 degrees and I will be doing it in the shop. I will record the humidity and temp anyway while I am at it.
