The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Can’t Keep my Cool Today, need a new RADIATOR!

Okey Dokey, I guess it’s my turn in the barrel! Been doing my home work for a couple of days just in case things turned out like they did and spent a couple of hours last night going thru over 50 pages back 5 years with the “search” function (what a joke that is). Came up empty handed so I gotta throw my self to the wolves and ask for opinions.

The 1954, 235 had a few pretty bad stains showing, but no antifreeze dripping. Since I had the front end off the engine to replace the seal and the rest of the gaskets I thought it would be a good time to have the radiator looked at. The only guys left within a 100-mile radius of me that were experienced with the V-core radiators looked at it to the tune of $600. Needs a new core he says and I can’t guarantee that the tanks are gonna pass muster either. So I told him to look away while played the tune "back to the trunk".

The five radiator shops that were close by (30-mile radius) have all closed the doors or turned into shops that only change out the plastic & alum radiators, they don’t really do any repair anymore. I was in and around the automobile business years ago and knew several of the shop owners, who are old timers like myself and they’ve all told me that when the tanks finely rotted out there just wasn’t enough repair work to justify replacing them. Besides the EPA was putting the kybosh on caustic tanks. The 100-mile guy told me that they just steam clean them now and I also got wind that he was in the process of switching over to doing more general mechanical work because the radiator repair was tapering off now days. Now this shop is the close-in Chicago suburbs mind you.

So that leaves me with the option of a repop radiator. I talked with Vernon Walker last night of Walker Radiators down in Tenn. They’ve been in business for over 70years and have found a niche in the Hot Rod arena. Their Cobra radiators are Copper and Brass, made right there in Memphis. Price is kind of high, about the same as the re-core would run but you know your gonna get a high quality radiator that will fit. The only down side is the upper tank is smooth cus that’s what the hot rodders want, they are not squared off and ribbed like the original. Their radiators come with a 10-year guarantee to top it off.

The radiators offered in the vendors catalogs run between $220 to $700, very cornfusing and you just don’t know what you’re getting or where they’re coming from. It doesn’t do any good to call and ask because lets face it, they are in the business of selling parts, not telling you how bad their product is. I’ve heard many people say when they got them they were still boxed from the source in the far-east and by now we all know what to expect from anything made over there. I know I’ve read dozens of horror story threads in the past describing how the tank material was ultra thin or the radiator was half the weight of the original or how the flanges didn’t fit or how they had to be sent back or how the neck or outlets were made wrong…………. And the closer is they only have a 1-year guarantee.

So I’d like to hear some new opinions and from anyone that has had some actual first hand experience replacing their Stovebolt radiator with a repop.
Boy, wouldn’t it be nice to find a truckload of NOS Harrison AD radiators in a barn somewhere, (just day dreaming a bit).
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

We have two shops in town (Green Bay) that still do radiators. The one that does the best work will also tell you not mess with something that works reasonably well. They are also a very old operation and work on a lot of the old stuff. I don't know if they do mail order. You may be stuck going to one of the parts places for one that looks original. Or you could find a used one that is in better shape than what you have and get it cleaned and sealed. The $600.00 price seems like a message that says we don't want the work to me.

Denny,

I paid $450 nine year ago to have my 1954 1/2 ton radiator recored with original-style core (in Albany, NY). My guess is that $600 would be lower than what they would charge me now.

What about this radiator?

Denny I certainly can appreciate the thoughts on the re-pop stuff. In reading your post I didn't see that there was anything specifically wrong with your radiator but only that you wanted to have it checked. Is that correct? If so then it occurs to me that you are as qualified as any of the pro shop guys and I know how good your work is from the detailed photos you've posted. It can't be too bad from what you say. Maybe the only thing you lack is the cleaning tank and other stuff/tools. My guess is that you are quite capable of making an air pressure fitting for the top and can plug the hose openings. A child's wading pool could be the test tank. If I were in your shoes and had your talent I'd have a go at it. If it does have small leak there is always a soldering iron or small propane torch around in everyone's shop to apply the fix or a jar of Bar's Leak. Think positive. Necessity is the mother of invention. You can do it.
Frankly it probably doesn't even need to be taken out of the truck to test it. Just put a 8-10 lb cap on it and fire her up and see where it leads you.

And I totally agree that $600 is just ridiculous. Some of these characters must be smoking some really good stuff IMO.

Denny..oops, just saw your earlier post on the radiator cap. Sounds like you know you need a new core. (?)

I'm sure this is a dumb question but, what is a "v core radiator"? I'm not farmiliar with this. Thanks......

http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/47_55/full.asp?page=90

Denny, this is what Carter list for 47-55 a 3 row. $370 minus stovebolt dis. $333

My experience: Back in 2008 I bought a 4 row, with tranny cooler in the bottom, from JimCarters and put it up in the attic until a couple months ago. They had just went up at the time. With my Stovebolt discount it ended up being $295.
I ask Mike T. before I ordered it where it came from and the told me that the radiator I ordered was actually a Desert Cooler radiator. Could be just because I wanted a 4 row/tranny cooler?

Denny, a year go while my nephew and I were finishing up a 37pickup restoration the owner paid a local shop $542 to recore his. Just this past summer I went to the same shop and ask how much to put me a tranny cooler tank on the bottom of the radiator in my 1937. The guy looked at it and told me "well, the core is bad and the tank altogether will be $550" I told him "that is a new core and it has less than 10,000 miles on it". I ask him did he think I was a dummy or stupid. He got [censored] off and started mumbling something under his breath while I layed the radiator back in my truck. I figured I better leave before I ended up doing something I might regret.

Give Mike T. a call. Ask him where the radiators come from and with the discount you may decide to do business with him???

Sorry to be a butt-in-skie
Discount? Through membership here? Because the vehicle is a stovebolt? Please explain. I may be needing parts soon and I can ALWAYS use a 10% discount.
Thanks!

Jerry

I wouldn’t argue the point that the core is shot Dave. There are signs that it’s been leaking in a few spots and since it wasn’t dripping when I drove it home and didn’t drip on the floor sitting in the barn, I would suspect that the previous owner has already gone the Bar’s Leaks route. So it’s just a matter of time before I see it popping thru elsewhere. I don’t like to be surprised by my trucks, cars, motorcycle or airplanes so I’d rather fix it right the first time and not get stuck miles from home one day.
I goin’ with a repop for sure just don’t know from who just yet.

Will do Alvin, thanks for the call, enjoyed hearin’ from you again.

Well Jerry, our hosts here at the Stovebolt and their helpers do this out of the goodness of their hearts because of the love of the hobby. However, to keep up the site, new equipment, software updates and the service provider does require that someone comes up with the coin. It’s always been voluntary but a lot of the members chose to help out whenever they can squeeze a few bucks out of the budget. God knows we sure get back 100 fold what we put into the ‘Bolt. As sponsors, some of the vendors have offered a discount to the contributing members. When you contribute to help support the Stovebolt Peg will send you a discount code to use when you place an order from JC. Your gonna spend a lot of money on that old Chevy truck over the next few years and a good portion will go to Jim Carter, if you can save enough to pay the shipping on all those orders, then that’s a bargain in my book.

Thanks for the comments guys.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I purchased my radiator from the link above about 9 months ago. It was $410.00 including shipping.
Here are a few pic's
Rad pic 1
Rad pic 2

I called walker back then and got the same info you did. Smooth tank, out of budget.

Called Clasic parts about thiers. They told me it was overseas made.

Called Chev's of the 40's, They told me they get thiers from US Radiator(Link Above)

I did have a problem when it arrived as I described in a diffrent thread . The flanges were not welded right. They did correct it at no cost to me.

The tank on my original Harrison was shot.

When the radiator arrived the invoice said COOL CRAFT.

Good Luck

interesting - Cool Craft, 10 bucks cheaper

Bill

Not when you add shipping. But close buy a few bones
The $410.00 I paid included shipping and maybe tax because I ordered over the phone.

I dont recal the list price.
I did find it intresting that I could order the same radiator Chev's of the 40's offers cheaper from U.S. Radiator directly.

I think these guys are supplying other vendors also. So the JC stovebolt discount would help if they offer that unit.

Good luck.

different retailers of the same products can set their own price, good reason to shop around for repro parts - if your invoice said Cool Craft, then US Radiator is a distributor for that particular item not the maker, and they have Cool Craft drop ship direct, a common practice for slower moving spendy items

Bill

Denny,

I know you pride yourself on quality work and parts. I replaced the radiator in my wifes '72 last January after an accident, with a new 4 core that I picked up online. Your truck has a few years on hers, but its still a 'bolt. Once it arrived, it was disheartening to say the least. The top and bottom tanks were so thin I actually dented them with my fingers upon install and just twisting on the radiator cap.

No leaks mind you, and it still hasnt come down with any problems, but the lack of quality in the actual material really turned me off and I regretted the purchase. I saved the old one and will probably look at having it recored when the truck has it's frame off in the future as the quality is astoundingly better even after 38 years of use and abuse.

When I originally posted my query, Cletis locked it down since the discussion started to drift away from where to buy a quality replacement radiator and the associated parts.

I wish it could have been answered prior to my purchase as I didn't come up with a satisfactory answer and instead took a shot in the dark. I wasn't happy with the resulting decision.

Let us know what you do and how it works out for you.

Jeff

Denny, Just had mine recored last winter. It ran just over $400.It is not the original type core.

Just like you the shops just keep closing. However, this shop was glad to get the work and enjoys the old stuff.

Jim

The US Radiator link also has a link to Cap-A-Radiator which is in Farmingdale N.Y. I have dealt with Bill Carberry and one of his workers and found them to be super guys. I bought my Griffin radiator for my 37 pickup cheaper through Bill than I could get it from Griffin.....who really didn't want to sell it directly to me anyway!
Bill has some good reading on his site as well if you have a few minutes to read.

Just as a tidbit, Bill also list a heater core for the Fresh Air Heater but yes, its costly, $225 but if your going to run out 50 dollars worth of gas looking for one then sit at home and order it and apply the savings to the radiator!

Denny, let us know what you decide to do. It appears you have many options!!

Why yes he does Alvin, that’s the first time I’ve seen anyone say they could re-core those. Still $200 for a re-core on the Deluxe heater seems like a bunch. Hell, you can buy a whole new front radiator for about $400. The guy that I took mine radiator to in Chicago still has my round recalculating heater core that was in the truck at delivery. I’m hoping it will pass the test. Brand new those round cores are up around $300 last time I looked.
Jeff, believe me when I say that thought has crossed my mind more than once. I’m definitely gonna put the original radiator aside and might look into it in the future. I’d also like to look into the Deluxe heater cores if I could buy radiator core material somewhere I’d bet I could figure out how to cut a couple blanks out on the band saw and soldering the tanks on those would be a snap. As fur as a test set up and testing them I’ve already been thru that exercise, here, take a look: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/harrison_h-02-47&page=all I

Now back to the big cooler. I was looking at US Radiator's site last night. I'm having a hard time figuring out if US Radiator is the one that makes the Desert Cooler brand radiators, I think they’re the source. Those were recommended by a couple of the guys here. I think I'll give them a call today. It looks like they offer three choices in copper & brass for the stock AD's. Their prices seem to be right in line with everyone else The Standard for $400, the High Efficiency for $500 and the Optima for $550. The tanks also look similar to but not exactly like the original Harrison, much closer than Walker’s tanks. Now if I only knew if any of the US Radiator units were those thin, flimsy tanked, ill-fitting radiators from the far east that Gus was talking about in the other thread I might could make a decision!

Any body bought a US radiator recently that you could report on????

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Oh, and here's a link to that site Alvin mentioned, http://www.caparadiator.com/

Alvin, I found Henderson's Radiator over in Greer near Midway Auto parts to be relaible and reasonable. Maybe for future reference?

Hank

I had a Desert Cooler on a '55 Chevrolet. It had a warmed up 350 in it and never had a cooling issue with it. It looked close to a OE radiator. I would buy another from them if I couldn't source a OE or a core and use my original tanks. I've found that the aluminum radiators that are available look good sitting on the bench. They don't come close in comparison to the OE at all. The guys I know who have bought one are not real happy, flimsy mounting, and didn't think that they cooled as well as the OE. Don

I bought a radiator from US radiator a few years back. Its installed in my '54 belair. Good guys. When I finish installing the engine in my '55 1st series, I'll order another radiator from US radiator for the truck. I've priced rebuilding my radiator locally.

Denny
Last winter the radiator on my '50 1/2 ton started leaking. I took it to a local radiation shop that has been in business for a long time and had it re-cored. The core was equal to the original in thickness and number if tubes and I have had no problems with it at all in terms of performance or fit. It cost a little over $300.

Don, you might want to read this link that Alvin pointed out to us.
Talked to Alex at US Radiator at lunch time and he says they make their radiators right there in CA, Tthey are not made off shore. The new one will be copper and brass, same 9/16" three row just like the original. Hs says it will be a drop in just like the original, two week delivery $402 add $50 for the shipping total $452.
So that's done and I can chalk it off the list amd move on to the next task.


Thanks for the discussion,
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks for the evaluation of that radiator, Denny.

That is the company at the link I gave you at the top of this thread. I talked with them yesterday but have never dealt with them and was not sure it would meet your standards.

Denny

Just A heads up on the radiator.
The Radiator in this Pic is the Radiator I ordered from U.S Radiator. My Original Harrison Is on the right.

As I posted earlier, The flanges were welded wrong. But U.S. Radiator corrected the problem.
Looking back through my old e mails I see it was Alex who I spoke to about it.
He sent The shipper out the following day to pick it up and had the New one out shortly after that. I emailed him those pics and he corrected the flange.

Hopefully This will not be an issue for you.
Here's that install pic again.

Good Luck

Morning guys. Well once again, doing you homework doesn’t guarantee that you are gonna get a passing grade. No matter how many questions I asked or what I read or whom I asked, as many of the replies have recommended, the trail kept coming back to the US Radiator out of Vernon, CA.

But what I thought was the final solution, once again has turned into doubt this morning. Now Gus points out that LA Radiator sent him a ringer, I believe you mean US Radiator out of CA Gus? LA Radiator is a repair service out of Auburn, ME. And I wish I would have seen that “installed” picture before I ordered it. The tank sits way below where the original one did.
And Jeff mention a tank that was so flimsy that it dented when he twisted the cap on, hope that wasn’t from US Radiator Jeff.

The doubt and panic! I ordered the radiator yesterday, two-week delivery he says on that one. When I opened my email this morning at 04:00 there waiting for me was the UPS tracking numbers, less than 24 hours from the initial order. Man that sure was quick, what happened to the two-week delivery to build that radiator??? The tracking info shows the shipping weight of the package at 21 pounds, that would of course include the box and packing. Now I can feel that black cloud drifting over my head. This tells me that the radiator is gonna weigh substantially less than 20 pounds probably 16-18 pounds. Now that sounded orful light for a brass and copper AD radiator so I throw my original radiator up on my trusty Fairbanks, Morris & Company 300lb. scale and come up with an accurate 27 pounds. Now I taint no mathematician but that feels to me like about 1/3 less material than the original radiator. And that can only equates to thinner tanks, thinner tubes all and all a thinner, lighter, cheaper radiator than was originally in the truck.
So I gotta say it, I have the feeling as I sit here with my morning coffee, that I just got it stuck in the, you know what once again!!!!

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Yes
The radiator in the pic is from US Radiator out of Cali.
I did disclose in my earlier post the problem I had with the mounting tabs.
If you look at the install pic you will see there your two set of mounting holes. It could be raised another inch.
As for the tank, It didn’t seem to me to be poor or thin. But time will tell I guess. Southern Nevada summers will put the stress test on it.

This Replacement radiator sits about the same position as the harrison I had
Original Rad Pic
Replacement Rad Pic

I did post those install pics in this thread a few days ago.

Good Luck

Im sure if your not satisfied that guy Alex will refund you. When I spoke with him he seemed to be OK.

I wasn't saying that the US Radiators are manufactured offshore. I was pointing out that some of the radiators that are offered are manufactured offshore and the quality and function of them is of a lesser quality than original equipment. As another point, back in the 80's when I turned wrenches for a living a Modine radiator was considered to be the best replacement short of a factory unit. Walk through a junkyard and look at some of these radiators in cars that are 15 -20 years old. The fins have turned to powder and the radiator is junk. I think that making the fins thinner and using a lesser quality of metal results in them not lasting. The point here is that radiators made today use thinner fin material, thinner material for the tanks and the components of the alloy used are far less than what was used when these AD trucks were manufactured. I'm know that a Desert Cooler / US Radiator will work good and will fit well, but in comparison it is less of a quality than the OE. Not that any of us will be around when these radiators are 50 years old but it would be interesting to be able to see what they will look like. Sorry to ramble on. Don

Don't forget your stock radiator is full of crap so the weight is going to be off. As you know, nothing built today is ever the same thickness or grade of material as it was back when!

At least give it a try before going south on us!

Joe

Oh hell Don, you want to see what rambling on is???? Just follow some of my replies and you'll feel like a rank amature. The history of radiator shops at the Cap-A-Radiator link that Alvin posted tells the story really well. It looks like our future just might be plastic and aluminum so we better just get used to the fact that the old days are gone for ever. We'll never get back to the level of quality that once exesisted.

Saw your PM before I saw this Gus, so pardon if I repeated my self.

Yeah Joe, Pete52 and I were discussing that very point over a cup of coffee just yeaterday. But my feeling is that there taint no way that 27 pound radiator is gonna hold 10 pounds of crud and still be keeping the engine cool, and it was keeping it at 180° on the drive home when I bought it.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, we have been running aluminum radiators with plastic tanks on our 18 wheelers around 20 years. I don't recall ever having a core failure. Occasionally the tanks crack, but they have clamped on tanks and we made a jig to replace them. We just don't use radiator shops any more except for my old jalopies, tractors and forklifts.

I'm sure that's gonna be all you can get somewhere down the line Ken. That article I mentioned says that all the GM cars have had them for about the same length of time. I thought my '97 GMC pickup has a brass and copper radiator but I'll be danged of I'm gonna run out in the cold and thru the 6" of snow we got last night to check it. I spent enough time shoveling it this morning.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I ordered a new radiator from Classic last week, and it's due in tomorrow. I'll check the weight and do a comparison when I pull the old one. We used to have some great radiator repair shops here in Miami, and I used to stop by one, Miami Radiator, back in the '60's when I had a friend who worked there. It was a toxic place, and there was always a witches brew of noxious chemicals on the floor and in the air. We had to go out to the parking lot to talk, because it was rough to breathe in the shop area. When EPA, OSHA and all those guys came around, it spelled the end. I'm not a fan of regulatory agencies for the most part, but there are probably some wives around who are getting a couple of more years out of their husbands because they don't work in that kind of environment anymore. It appears, from this forum, that there are some attractive alternatives to a re-core for us. Also, weight does not mean a better quality. I sell commercial refrigeration. The ones that we sold in the '70's weighed much more than the ones we sell today. Guess which ones perform and cool better, and cost less to run. Nostalgia has it's place, that's why I have an old truck. But a lot of stuff is made better today than it was 50 years ago. I'll take my flat screen Samsung TV over the old Dumont we used to have any day!

Hi Guys,
First time poster. My name is Shawn and I work at U.S. Radiator. I received a Google alert about this thread, so I thought I'd jump in and answer some of the questions here. Hope you don’t mind.

U.S. Radiator is a manufacturer that’s been around for about 40 years. We do make the "Desert Cooler" brand, though others use the name for offshore rads (more on that later). We are based in Los Angeles. Cool Craft is a distributor of U.S. Radiator just like Cap A Radiator, Chev's of the 40s and Jim Carters.

After reading this yesterday morning, I decided to head into the shop and do some comparisons and take some pictures for you. The original radiators used a honey-comb (hexagon) style core. The "tubes", which aren't really tubes; they are water passages, are formed by stacked pieces of copper that have been bunched up then coated with solder. These passages were on 9/16" centers. In the 50s Harrison developed the tube and fin style core out of the necessity to cool higher horsepower engines in a smaller space. They were 40% more efficient at transferring heat and the bonus to them was that they are considerably lighter; which means they were cheaper to manufacture.
This is a picture of the honeycomb style core. You cannot see the water passages since they are surrounded by all of the bunched up copper; which we call “fins” now:
http://www.usradiator.com/media/honeycomb.jpg

This is a picture of the tube and fin style core. You can see that the fin sits between the tubes and doesn’t completely surround them. Also, they are soldered to the tube instead of to each other. These would account for the lighter weight. The fins are louvered unlike the honeycomb core. Air is allowed to flow through the fins, which makes is a more efficient core: http://www.usradiator.com/media/tubefin.jpg

I found two ’38 chevy truck radiators; one with an original core and one that we had re-cored using our “Standard Automotive” style core. The weight difference was around 9lbs.
In the 10 years I’ve been working for U.S. Radiator, I’ve never seen one of our tanks split. This last year we received a complaint about one of our 55-57 Bel Air “Desert Cooler” radiators cracking near the ribs on the top tank. The guy took it to a radiator shop to have it silver soldered, but it would continue to crack. I couldn’t understand why this was happening, but once I received the radiator, I quickly figured out why. The radiator was an off shore radiator sold by a company claiming to carry “Desert Cooler” radiators. Here is a picture of the radiator: http://www.usradiator.com/media/offshore.jpg

I constantly have to contact companies that are using the “desert cooler” name on these types of radiators. Heck, I even caught some of our distributors doing it, though I think it had more to do with them not updating the radiator descriptions on their web pages for the more popular radiators they can buy oversees now.

In the 60s, GM started using aluminum radiators on Corvettes that came with small block engines. Since aluminum does not transfer heat as well as copper, they continued to use copper/brass radiators with big block engines. It wasn’t until the Japanese developed what is referred to as a High Efficiency core design (tubes on 3/8” centers), that auto manufactures moved to aluminum radiators in all of their vehicles. The move was driven by the lower cost of manufacturing, not because aluminum is better than copper. We make a copper core with the same High Efficiency core design, which allows guys to swap in higher horsepower engines and keep the durability of a copper/brass radiator as well as original appearance. Walker Radiator has something similar as well. I recently posted a page that describes all the core styles we make: http://www.usradiator.com/cores

I hope that clears up some of the questions that were raised here about U.S. Radiator. I don’t have the time to check back here often enough, so if you need me, PM me.
shawn

Well I for one am very grateful to Shawn for that great reply. Every once in a while we get the straight skinny from someone on the inside. That sure puts me at ease, I feel like a nice breeze blew in and cleared the air. His explanation, pictures and links really cleared things up in my mind.
Thanks again Shawn, wherever you are. Now I’m looking forward to getting the new radiator rather than dreading the fact that I needed to replace the old one. .

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I'll 2nd Dennys motion, it'd be great for more "insiders" to drop by with the real skinny on other products

Bill

Thanks for posting up Shawn,
You cleared up some of the info I posted earlier in this thread.

Here are some pic's of the fit problem I had
rad pic's link.
U.S. Radiator corrected the problem.

The radiator support is original to the 1950 truck.

Word must be getting out to some of these companies.
I remember posting problems about an electric wiper motor I bought from Classic parts.
In that thread Newport Wiper Company posted up to clear up some questions about their product.

Im sure if Denny will post a review after his radiator arrives.

Good Luck

Hey Guys,
Glad the info was received well. I'm always a bit nervous about people thinking that I'm barging in on their conversations :-)

As I mentioned, google has a service where you can put in keywords and it will send you a daily email telling you were those words popped up on the web. I have set up alerts for things like "us radiator", "desert cooler" and the like. Comes in handy!

Now, as far as the brackets are concerned, I did look at those pictures before I posted. Looks like my boys in the bracket department had their heads in the clouds when then spot welded them. I just walked around the shop and all the ones that we are building today are correct. Denny, I'll make sure yours are correct before it is shipped.

shawn

Thanks Shawn, but I think the horse is on the run already. I mentioned earlierI that I was surpriced because Alec said it would be a couple of weeks. Following the tracking number, and it says delivery on Wednesday of this week.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Well this thread is getting out of hand. But it's all my fault guys. The tracking number I was looking at was not for US Radiator, but for another vendor located in California. I recieved a personal phone call from Shawn, and the radiator wasn't shipped as I throght, in fact it's on the original schedule that Alex gave me, a couple of weeks. MY BAD as they say now days. Easy for an old guy to get things mixed up when he's trying to do sixty nine things all in the same week. And I don't know what the weight is so I need to retract all that crap I wrote about the weight difference.
But I think we can take away a few good things from this mess that I made. As Dad wrote, the people at US Radiator are stand up people and have gone out of their way to put me back on the right track.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks to ALL of you who refuse to give up and help us track down viable and quality products and service. Hopefully lots of people will see this and order from them or one of their representatives. I have one of theirs, from JCarter and I'm well pleased.
Denny if you will cut that number back to 68 instead of 69 you'll do better.

Shawn, thank you.


Edit: it would be nice if there is someway we could "capture" all the good guys like U.S. Radiator, Newport Engineering and the other GOOD companies as a stickie in the forums since radiator, wiper, ect keeps coming up and we keep beating it to death.

Very informative thread! And timely as well now that my 62's radiator is leaking badly. I'm also having problems finding a good radiator repair shop locally so it's good to know that replacement radiators are still being manufactured in the US by a stand-up company.