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Looking through the various catalogs for headers for my 49 sub with a 283. I am totally confused by the terminology. I think I need the block hugger type but can't figure out what they are talking about. What do the following terns mean? Plain straight plug with o2. Plain straight plug without o2. Plain angle plug with o2. Plain angle plug without o2. D port. Thanks bolters for putting up with my ignorance for the Nth time. Weeds

Don't run headers, they're the biggest headache a car/truck can have. There's no real advantage to them, they leak, rust, come loose and make everything under the hood too hot. And I'm speaking from experience too. Just my 2 cents,
Scott

i would have to agree with scott. i'll be using a set of ram horns, starters don't like headers. my 2 cents..mike j

O2 MEANS A PORT FOR THE O/2 ANALIZER. LATER TRUCKS ONLY. STRAIGHT OR ANGLE MEANS THE ANGLE OF THE SPARK PLUG COMING OUT OF THE HEADS. DOES IT COME OUT AT A NINETY DEGREE ANGLE OR IS IT ANGLED RIGHT OR LEFT LOOKING DOWN AT IT

Weeds,
You can see the block hugger type headers on some of the engine pics in my picture trail album. The ones I am using are ceramic coated which evidently helps reduce the temp in the engine compartment but by how much I am skeptical. I am using these basically because they were donated to me by a friend and the son has insisted they be used. I had planned to run some ram horn exhaust manifolds but will use those on my next project.

Boy I thought I was confused before. 2 pros 2 cons. Should I or shouldn't I ? Anyway GAZIM thanks for explaining the terminology to me. 2many and 54 thanks also for your input on headers. Weeds

I'll be the tie-breaker; headers are best left to those who are after the last bit of power from their engines. They are generally a high maintenance item,though some people just have better success than others with them.
You'll find the old rams-horn manifolds to be tough and reliable,and you won't lose enough power vs. headers to be worth quibbling about. (If you should happen across a set from an old 1960-1966 C-60 or bigger with a smallblock,they often have bigger outlets,to use bigger pipes,and make slightly bigger power.) Of course,they were really big with the big racers,so finding them could be a big undertaking.
Speed

Headers range from $69 to $569 and more. It isn't hard to figure which ones rust, leak, and blow gaskets, and which ones don't. A quality Jet Hot coated header is a thing of beauty, a bargain painted header is everything you will learn to hate about headers. If you want to love a header, buy Sandersons, the only ones that I know of that don't even need gaskets. If you want to hate a header buy a set from JC Whitney and with the money you save you can afford lots of gaskets and paint.

Bought a set of Blackjack AlumiCoat headers in 1985. They need to be replaced now - after 20 years and 200,000 miles - I am really happy with that. When I put them on, I immediately noticed the power increase; didn't have to push the gas pedal down as far when going up the hill outside the house.

Only real issue I had with them was that the bolts kept coming loose. If you didn't tighten them up right away, the gaskets would blow out. Using lockwashers on the bolts kept them tight longer.

Headers made spark plug changes a little harder. Deep socket interfered with the tube so I cut down a 5/8 deep socket (made it a medium) - that helped.

And no starter problems at all.

I've run shory headers with the high-temp coating on them for about 10 years now. I've never had any problems with them and havn't had any of the hot starter or exhaust problems others have complained about. The quality of the header is proportional to the problems you have. The added performance and looks is worth it in my opinion.

I'll add that using good quality copper header gaskets is a must do if your gonna run em. The standard composit gaskets are crappola.

I have used the blockhugger headers on my 55,and I used a set of S-10 conversion headers on a 37 Chevy sedan and transplanted 350.Had good luck with both.But as far as performance goes I dont feel they are any better than the rams horn manifolds.just my 2 cts.worth.

I'm surprised at some of the negatives about headers, to be honest. I've got block-hugger headers on my 350 (my truck came that way) ... I never have noticed any starter problems ... spark plugs are a little tough to get to, but an open end wrench does the job and it certainly isn't a problem. And they sure sound good!

I have ceramic coated fentons on a 235. They look awesome, sound cool, and the get up and go has noticably improved. If I keep it easy on the pedal(hard to do - the fentons like to sing), I also get better gas mileage.

I am not running down headers as I have them on both of my trucks.My point is that the blockhuggers are not much different than the ramshorn manifolds.To get really good performance you need full length headers with collectors.

I used Hedman Elite block huggers to get clearance between frame and steering column shaft. Still had to mount on spare block, heat and tweek them in a 1/2" to clear steering universal by 1/2". So far 500+ miles no problems, The Elite are listed as thermal coated.
You can see in my web photo's here
http://community.webshots.com/user/zeker6
Zeke

Thanks everyone for your advice. I am going to use a set of rams horn because I already have them. It seems from the advice that they are an acceptable subsitute for headers. Next question--do I need to install the weighted heat flapper thingies? Both sides? I am going to weld up a dual system using readily available sections from my local NAPA. Is it a mistake to do this with the body off the frame? Seems like it would be a lot easier doing it this way. Bolters came thru again! Weeds