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Laboring.

We are hoping we can do something as not to lose the stuff. What's coming from manuals is actually available to anyone with a manual.

Dan has been collecting manuals and other materials to hope Bolters with their questions.

Does GM Heritage Center got more materials as of late, does anyone know?

A thing to consider is to ask GROK when you are looking for details that are in a printed pub.

It's all good. If I was to post what I paid for my rust bucket, I'd probably be laughed off the forum.
But in my defense, I needed a project to keep me off the streets in retirement. On that account, it worked.

Regardless of what paint you use, the key to getting a good paint job without runs, is the first coat. You want that to be the adhesion coat, not total coverage, but a light see thru coat that will give the next coat something to latch on to. Let the first coat get tacky (about ten minutes) then lay on a medium wet coat. That coat should give you complete coverage, but don't fret of you can still see thru in a few spots. Just give it enough time to tack up (usually ten-fifteen minutes) then give it another medium wet coat.

I would definitely practice on that junk yard hood a few times, both in a horizontal and vertical position.

Also there is no such thing as too much light when you’re painting, so get as many lights as you can, not just overhead, but also on the sides.

Jon it’s under tools, the very last one!

Jack - The sunvisor I purchased is adjustable for width (side sections slide in and out of center section) and designed to mount by clamping onto on the cab drip rails and center windshield divider strip. I've added a few more pictures so you can see more details.

The one thing to be aware of with the '46 is with it having a crank out windshield, that doesn't work well with the fixed position sunvisor. You would need to either not open your windshield after the sunvisor is installed, or be prepared to loosen/adjust the mounts each time you opened/closed the windshield.

The key concern here is you must have and use the sunvisor center support mount secured to the windshield divider strip. Without that support, driving will cause the air flow to destroy the sunvisor as it's not rigid enough to be self supporting.

Thanks for effort. Looks like I’ve found a source for the rods. See attached

The tap method works, and there's no need to use a bolt. Just screw a couple of flywheel bolts into the flange and put a pry bar between them to keep the crankshaft from turning, and keep cranking on the tap when it bottoms out. "Why is common sense such an uncommon thing?"
Jerry

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1053076644186956
I have what I believe is a 1941 Chevrolet complete original truck has six cylinder with granny four speed.

Not my ad. Posted for your convenience.

I had a chance to meet up with a great young Bolter, Nathan ( Stovebolt48). He is currently working on a '53 GMC and used this weekend to make a road trip for parts.

Nathan is going through Flight School in Pensacola for the U.S. Marines, he wants to be a Rotor Pilot. He swapped some training around to afford the time for this trip. He left Pensacola Saturday Morning, made a stop in Alabama for bumper brackets, then on to Knoxville and Mark ( Rusty Heaps). He picked up a set of Wheels from Mark and a Cylinder Head for me. From Mark's he headed to Georgia and my place. He did make a short detour in McDonough GA to the Summit Racing outlet.

He stopped here at my place. I added 3 more 16" wheels to his collection. He got the grand tour as I was hanging insulation in the Shop. I talked to him for just a short while, in that time he did impress me as smart, level headed young Man.

From here he was headed to Jacksonville FL tomorrow to check out a GMC engine. Then on back to Pensacola. Oh to be that young again..... Simper Fi Nathan!

Another "miracle in a tube" !

Jon

Casting number "3769716" is listed in my resource documents as a 1958-62 Chevy 235 Truck engine.

The serial number "F0112A" is difficult to decode without knowing the blocks date casting code info. Look for raised (not stamped) single letter followed by a small space, one or two digits, followed by another small space and a single digit located to the rear of the stamped serial number pad.

If you can provide that info, we can better define what year engine you have and possible confirm the serial# as well.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1830321694596573
1934 Chevy truck. Very original. Has the original running gear.

NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1820315272670591
Short block core 261 Chevy straight 6 out of a 54 heavy duty truck frame. No captains bars on the casting but casting numbers and bore size prove 261ci.

NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

If I were you, I'd buy one of those head gasket test kits that uses blue fluid to test for CO2 in the coolant. They're only around $20 at the parts stores.

you put the test tube with the fluid over the radiator filler neck while the engine is running. A vacuum tube is connected to the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

If CO2 is detected in your radiator the blue fluid turns yellow.

This indicates that exhaust gases are entering your water jacket - most likely through a damaged head gasket.

This hot exhaust gas may be what is causing your engine's coolant to heat up so rapidly. If nothing else, it will rule out an exhaust leak into the cooling system and allow you to focus on other areas.

Craig - That's an interesting find. Ad indicates they only made a limited run of 10 units, with 6 already sold. Not cheap, but maybe worth it for someone. Here's a snapshot of the ad's initial picture for anyone that may be interested.

Thanks for sharing.

Now ya'll got me blushing!

Thanks, Tuts!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3505406742958751
Truck started and ran the day we got it 25 years ago, and it has sat in this exact spot for 25 years.
Title in hand.
NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1210617677938268
Project Vehicle OR Yard Art! 1942 1.5 Ton Chevy Truck.

NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

Yes! Looking forward to more. Thanks for all this story line.

I helped rebuild a 256 several years ago- - - - -its original application was in a Canadian military vehicle.
Jerry

There's a sneaky trick to minimize valve cover leaks. Stovebolt cylinder heads are flat where the gasket sits, so oil can puddle behind the gasket and seep underneath, unless the gasket is glued down to the head. It's also necessary to assure that the valve cover flange is completely flat- - - - -overtightening the 4 bolts that hold it down can dimple the sheet metal and result in uneven clamping along long sections of the gasket. I like to use weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket to the head, and a thin layer of grease on top to allow the valve cover to be removed periodically for valve adjustments without damaging the gasket. Gluing the gasket to the head builds a dam to discourage seep leaks.
Jerry

Gdads51, I will get busy and order from one or the other. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks a bunch!

I’ve seen worse for more money. If it has a title it is probably worth it to someone. The 1/2 tons are getting hard to find. Fenders are not pristine but fixable. Roof of cab doesn’t appear to have jumped on.

I wouldn’t pay that much, but like I said, I’ve seen way worse for sale.

John

Not sure about this. We already have troubles with people posting a YT without making it a link. The LINK idea is good.

Maybe a link in the Bolter's signature line. That way you have more than just the link, like what kind of truck they have.

We don't forbid YT or Facebook links. It's amazing how many are using FB for their build story. We are about information SHARING. It takes more than one site to build an old truck.