No, I wired the power wire to coil a straight shot with 12 ga. wire from a spade terminal on my fuse box labeled "ignition unfused". There are two of these spade terminals. When key is turned to first position (is that run or start?), I have 12.3 volts at fuse box and at coil. With power wire at coil disconnected and key turned so engine cranks, there is 12.1 volts at coil power wire. I do have 12+ volts at pink wire at ignition switch but chose the fuse box terminal instead.
Today, I tried BigT's suggestion. Wasn't "acting up" but, was curious to see what would happen.
Disconnected power wire at coil. Disconnected purple wire at S terminal. With key in first position, 12.3 at coil power wire. With key engaged to start engine but, no starter load and engine not cranking 'cause purple wire disconnected, voltage increased to 12.6 volts. I had the same reading at purple wire which surprised me. Guess that's because it wasn't hooked up to S terminal and there was no current draw. When the purple wire is hooked up and starter engages and motor cranks, there's 9.9 volts at S terminal and 12.1 at coil power wire.
I'm going to try the same thing again but, leave the S terminal hooked to the starter and disconnect coil power wire. I'll then use a spring loaded toggle switch (conveniently borrowed from work) and jumper the starter with toggle switch (this is now my screwdriver). Turn the key to first position, engage toggle switch and get reading at coil power wire.
The one time I read voltage when IT WAS acting up, I had 12.1 volts at coil power wire with motor cranking. And 9.9 volts at S terminal. Then I jumpered the starter with screwdriver and drove to work.
Piewagon, I eliminated the wiring going to R terminal.
-David
