Here is my free detailed analysis and summary. ©
There are folks who have a direct wire from alternator blade terminal 1 to ignition and have no run on.
There are folks who fix the run-on with a resistor or bulb solution.
There are so many variables with harnesses kits, ignition switches, HEI, Pertronix.....Owner wiring and miswiring. . Some internet info and diagrams show no bulb. Just run a wire to ignition. These folks are the ones who have done it with no bulb and are OK. So they advise that way. We don't know anything about these cases. I want to figure out why some do, some don't have run-on.
Lets talk ballast resistor system/10si alternator 3 wire/12V conversion.
If that system has run-on, here is what must be happening:
If you attach the alternator exciter wire and the coil wire to the same terminal on the ignition switch, the switch operation has no effect. Does not matter if that ignition terminal is dead after switch is OFF. The wires are touching each other outside the switch. Which gives a straight thru path (feedback) for voltage/current from a spinning alternator to coil to keep the motor running. (run-on)
Remedy:
Attach the exciter wire direct or thru an indicator bulb to the ACC terminal, then when switch if OFF there would be no connection to the coil and motor will stop. When switch is on, both terminals provide voltage. The "ON" and the "ACC" are connected together internally when switch is on. Be sure "ACC" and "ON" do not have continuity when switch is off.
On foot stomp/push button systems, the 3 terminal ON/Off switch may be useable.
