Wolfs53,
The difference between a 6 volt coil and a 12 volt coil (unless internally resisted) is minor. The points allow the coil to function, and the points and condenser don't like a full 12 volts for maximum life. In your troubleshooting to get this rig running, you can connect your voltmeter between coil - and ground, and as you crank the engine over with the key on, that voltage should toggle from 0 volts to some value near battery voltage.
Part of the swap to 12 volts should have included some method to reduce voltage to the coil...a ballast resistor, or a 12 volt coil that has resistance built in. This is something you can think about after you get it back on track.
If you want to prove your existing coil, you should be able to get the coil wire to zap when held NEAR a ground by turning the key on and alternately touching the primary lead wire, which is the small wire going to the distributor, to ground, then removing it. This action fires the coil. Don't give up.
Stuart
