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| | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | Any tips on removing the rear bearings and oil seals on a '53 3100? Having a hard time with it. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | You should be able to pry the seals out with a small pry bar. If you have a slide hammer, that would work to, just reverse the jaws.
If the rear end is apart, stick a 6' piece of pipe through and beat on them with a sledge hammer, knocking each side out from the other side.
Jeff | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | Goto you local FLAPS like Advance Auto and you can borrow a 3-jaw slide hammer. Make sure you get a 3-jaw, makes the job much easier. Like this......
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | use a crowbar... and sometimes you can use the claws on a hammer.
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | If the rear end is apart, stick a 6' piece of pipe through and beat on them with a sledge hammer, knocking each side out from the other side. If you're replacing the bearings, this is the fastest and easiest way to remove them. If you're only replacing the seals, use a seal puller. A small prybar or large screwdriver will work, too.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | I should also mention that the cost for using the tool I mentioned above is FREE!!!! You put a deposit on a credit card for the cost of the tool, and it is returned to the card when you return the tool.
Do your self a favor and use the tool that was designed to do the job. Not only will it be done correctly, but will be easy.
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,803 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,803 | Once you get the bearing out, don't count on re-using it. The housing that holds the rollers in place usually gets damaged in the process of removing the bearing.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | Got the loaner tool and 10 minutes later everything was out! Thanks for the info. Putting everything back together today...new bearing and seals...total cost from Classic Chevy parts was $109 including shipping. Thanks for all the help guys! | | |
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