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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
Just bought a 1950 1/2 ton and want to go the street rod route with it. I understand that it's generally advised to use a Camero engine, tranny and rear end to put into our old trucks. My question is what is the date range of Camero's to go looking for in the wrecking yards? More specifically then is what is the BEST year to look for if given a choice? I'm just starting my project and need some advice from those of you who've done this before.

Many, many thanks!
Spot


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
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Well Duh, the advice you received wasn't the best. The parts you mentioned would work fine but kinda limiting. Almost any Chev V-8 and tyranny combination will work fine. The rear end will cause you a little more work. If you run into a leaf spring/coil change you will need to do a little fab work. You can find experts here that have done the impossible but take it one step at a time and ask a lot of questions. Anything is possible with a little experience. I am in my 70's and still have more to learn . I'm gaining though.

Last edited by gazim; 03/19/2011 9:45 PM.
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 323
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 323
I think you heard Camaro because of 350-700r4-10 bolt rear end that is close in withe and a front clip.all from one car that you buy running. It works, it's cheap.But that is only one way of doing it.




These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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73-79 Camero-Firebird will have about the same width rear axle as your truck so the swap will be pretty easy, both use leaf springs. The engine and trans can be anything you want. The advantage of using a one car swap is you can go to any local parts house and ask for parts from that which you robbed parts from. If you plan on a little hot rodding, then the V8 would be a good choice, but if you want some thing reliable and cheap, stick with your current engine and swap in a modern trans and rear axle. You have a lot of choices to make and the first one is how are you going to use this truck? The next question you should ask, is how much work are you willing to do yourself or can do yourself. Swapping the axle is pretty easy, changing engines requires more work including welding and fabricating.

Another thing to consider is braking and handling, the faster you go the more of each you will need. These trucks do not like sudden lane changes or maneuvers, even with modern front suspension, they are top heavy and tend to lean, at least mine does. Once you change out the axles, you have lost all load caring capacity, you end up with a truck body on a car chassis.

Also, go to a few local cruise nights and car shows, you will see way to many V8 trucks that all use the same parts. If you want to stand out, stick with the inline motor chassis.

Joe

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A lot of people use the '71-'81 nova front ends. They use the front part of the frame. It is welded onto the original frame of the truck and it gives u a leg up on getting started. For example, it gives u motor mounts, front suspension with modern brakes, sterring components, etc. Or u go the piece at a time method. Any way u go just realize that it is a mojor undertaking requiring gobs of $ and work. I believe the Nova rears are the same width as the camaros which are the closest match in width. I have a '52 and am planning that V-8 conversion also. But instead of having parts all over the garage for years, I am just driving it in "original" configuration while colecting the parts for the conversion. Believe me, u have only scratch the surface when it comes to parts needed.


'52 3100 "once a Marine, always a Marine!!
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W
'Bolter
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What is nice about the Camaro is that it is a front clip that is easy to pull at the junk yard, just a few bolts to remove gives a whole front suspension/steering/brakes/engine mounts... That way, you can take the geometry home instead of trying to measure accurately as you pull separate parts, or cut up a chassis...
Then you weld the whole front clip in place and the geometry is still good!
The huge amount of aftermarket parts for Camaro is a bonus: anything is available!
These trucks are not heavy, certainly not heavier than a mid70s Camaro, so the suspension/brakes are good; our trucks are indeed top-heavy, so you really need an anti-sway bar (at least in the front), probably bigger than the stock Camaro piece.
My '57 Suburban has a '77 Camaro front clip, engine/trans and rear end. I bought it that way and I love it, it is comfy and I will never have issues finding parts anywhere! And if I wanted to haul stuff, I could always get heavier rear springs, air shocks...

Last edited by wave1957; 03/23/2011 1:51 AM.

'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I agree, the camaro is desired for it's front sub frame but now days it's better to buy an independent front suspension kit that's been engineered specifically for this application. I've done a Nova clip on my 48 Fleetmaster and it took days worth of measuring, grinding and welding to meld the two. I can see where it could be VERY easy to mess up and ruin both pieces.

As for the other stuff, I've used Monte Carlo drivetrains along with the tilt column and powerseats and what-not,
Just my 2 cents worth,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
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K
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Posts: 89
OK, since your just getting started...

my 51 sits on a s-10 chasis (P/S - yeah!!)with a blazer rear axel (with disc brakes - oh, yeah!!). 1971 v-8 350/th350 trans (would recommend a 700r4 trans so your rpms aren't too high going down the highway).
I didn't put it together (got it that way) but have heard of several having gone this route.

jus food for thought


it ain't YOURS 'till it ain't stock!

1951 chevy 3100
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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My thanks to EVERYONE who has given me their opinions. I truly am overwhelmed with the possibilities, so I will continue to seek advice and make an informed decision. I didn't know that the camaro front clip was something that was bolted on. That would make it a relatively easy pull from the wrecking yard and I just might be able to install it myself. I do not weld.

I like Joe H.'s advice that keeping the stock suspension and engine makes for a unique truck. I just might run it stock while I gather parts instead of having it in pieces in the backyard while I look for parts. I thought I wanted a V8 until I saw the pic of your 250 with triple carbs. WOW!!

Thanks everyone. I'll be asking lots more questions.

Spot


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 4,095
I guess i will add my two cents. i have a 54/3100 with a pacer front end and a nova 2.73 rear end. it has fenton headers and offenhauser dual Rochester's. i also have a s/10 five speed trans. i have driven it over 10,000 miles with that set up. i drove it stock except for the amc pacer Ifs for over 20 years.


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
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'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
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The Camaro front clip unbolts from Camaro body, it will still need to be welded into a truck framerail,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!

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