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Joined: Jan 2011
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As part of the restoration I'm considering replacing front drums to discs. I don't want the look of a power booster on the firewall. LMC has a non-power conversion kit that uses the original pedal and mounting location. One person's opinion was that if you don't go to power you shouldn't swap to discs, andt that the discs actually takes more foot pressure than drums.

Thoughts?


Dave
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The fallen hero's dream ride is a 1951 Chevrolet 3100 with original 216
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There are power units that mount where the originals are.Under the floor.I set my 55 up this way and it works out just fine.

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#2 It all depends on how you are gonna use your truck.If it is only gonna be a part time driver the old drums will work just fine.It is pretty much up to you and what you want to accomplish with your truck.The reason I converted was because I installed an M2 frontend complete with disc brakes.

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I have a dual master cylinder set up with power under the floor. the reason is safety with a split system and then better braking.


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Thanks. I didn't realize there are power boosters that mount under the floor. I'll look for one. Does the brake pedal/linkage need modified?


Dave
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Check the specs carefully, and call the manufacturer's support line when you get close to a decision. Some of the under-floor boosters will not fit with a manual trans. Not sure if it's the clutch linkage or the trans itself that is the problem.


Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice)
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Extreme Gabster
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You also need to tell us what truck you are working on. If it is an AD/ND the one Performance Online sells will work with a manual transmission. The one CPP sells has a larger booster. It may be the one people have had trouble fitting. If your truck is older than an AD, I don't know about them.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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He did cletis. In the welcome center where you and I replied he said a 51 pickup.....a link also provides picture.

You may also want to consider the 7" booster/MC set up from PirateJack.net (Asheville,N.C.) I think it will work either way and its also not as "costly" as other vendors. I tried them and like it. Comes with all the brackets ect. You may just want to make sure it'll not interfere with the rear cross member as well as the tranny. Nice folks to deal with.

Good luck.


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Oh, I forgot. I'm supposed to memorize who has what truck. It ought to be easy. There are only 20,000 or so of us.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

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I am getting ready to buy a Disc Brake kit also for my 57 & have looked at a bunch of them on the net...

My big question is: Are any of them made in the USA or are they all Hecho en china...

I will look up the recommendation in the previous post..

Thanks,

TC



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I'm sure the calliper brackets are made here in the USA.

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I've been researching this one for a while myself. I've heard lots of good things about Pirate Jacks I've also seen someone mention Carolina Classics.

In terms of one of FallenHeros original questions, if you go to disc do you need power?


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Originally Posted by FallenHerosDad
As part of the restoration I'm considering replacing front drums to discs. I don't want the look of a power booster on the firewall. LMC has a non-power conversion kit that uses the original pedal and mounting location. One person's opinion was that if you don't go to power you shouldn't swap to discs, andt that the discs actually takes more foot pressure than drums.

Thoughts?

IMHO, you don't need disc brakes. You have Bendix and they are more than adequate for your needs. I have a daily driver only vehicle '49 with Huck type brakes, have eclipsed 55 k miles with panic stops, 2000 mile trips. The dual master is a nice upgrade for peace of mind but according to your website you are doing a restoration, discs are a modification you do not need. With no modification to your drivetrain you will not drive this vehicle much, maybe 1k miles per year tops, never have her out on the Interstate.


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I use non power disk brakes on the '37. Yes it takes a little effort to stop, but once you drive a while you get used to it. GM sold '70 Chevelle's and Corvette's with manual disk. I used a Chevelle master cylinder on my drag race car with manual disk and it stopped just fine from 122 mph time after time.

With the right lever ratio and master cylinder bore diameter, you can minimize the effort.

Joe

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Since you are asking for opinions. I would recommend converting to disc brakes and using an under the floor booster/MC. There are nunerous aftermarket suppliers selling kits. Some use the original hubs and retain the 6 lug pattern but you can't use your original wheels. Others use 70's Camaro/Chevelle rotors & calipers but are 5 lug. So you will still need new wheels and figure out what to do with the 6 lug rear end. Do as much research as you can and look at some conversions. They are not all created equal.
Fred


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My kit came from, www.brotherstrucks.com. and worked with no modifications. i looked and the kit is cheaper than it was 4 years ago.

Last edited by WE b OLD; 01/16/2011 11:25 PM.

Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
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Extreme Gabster
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I'm using the power disc setup from Performance Online on my '54 burb and I love it. I highly recommend it. I'm using stock 16" wheels. I had to grind a little off the caliper housing.

Installation pics


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

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1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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(edited)

Last edited by cletis; 01/24/2011 4:20 AM. Reason: removed off topic content

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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