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#624491 02/28/2010 7:14 PM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 46
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
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Posts: 46
Hi, I'm Kevin. I got a '51 3/4 ton chevy this past summer. I'm not a mechanic. It's in the garage, I have the bed off - down to the frame. Is there a better way to get rust off besides a wire brush on the end of a drill? Thanks K.

Joined: Jun 2009
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F
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sand blasting. check your yellow pages, sometimes monument companies (headstones) provide the service.


1953 Chevrolet 3600
Fried Green T'mater (Vern)
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Caution: Political Statement
Man who runs in front of car gets tired, man who runs behind car gets exhausted.
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Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Posts: 14,522
Welcome Kevin. Your in good company. Lots of guya around here from Ilinois. I'm sure you will hook up with them along the way.
Sounds like you have a good start on your project. Keep us posted and how about some pics when you can.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Joy Offline
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Welcome to Stovebolt!wire brush worked for us!;-) Lots of work.Good luck!

Joined: Mar 2008
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hi Kevin,firstly welcome to the 'bolt.
Certainly blasting is probably the best option,but at a price.
You also have the logistical problem of getting the chassis to the sand blasters,unless you can find someone who does 'mobile' work.
Then you've got the mess to contend with. dang

I,like Joy,did mine the hard way and have been pleased with the results,it's a dirty job....but someone's got to do it!


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Kevin,
welcome to the Stovebolt! For removing rust from the larger areas, I use a 3M rust/paint stripper wheel on a drill. They do a great job and they won't harm sheet metal. I like using a cheap drill that has high RPM. Since it is tough work for a drill, it is another reason to use a cheap one.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If you go to any auctions, you can usually pick up used drills pretty cheap. A friend of mine picked up seven for me last fall at $2 apiece! I won't have to buy any for a long time! And best of all, I'm not tearing up my good drill!


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
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J
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Rich'sToys
If you go to any auctions, you can usually pick up used drills pretty cheap.I'm not tearing up my good drill!

Rich, I agree, I 'killed' my good Bosch drill pretty quick.....
The motor seemed good enough,it's just they don't like the side loads imposed on the chuck too much!


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 419
D
Shop Shark
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D Offline
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From a fellow Illinoisan, and relatively new guy, WELCOME! This site is agreat place to learn and exprience!


Dave
The Blue Funk: a '51 3100 4 OTF with a '57 235
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K
Wrench Fetcher
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K Offline
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Sounds like I better keep going with the wire bruch. Thanks for all the suggestions. I would love to add a pic but don't seem to see how to here.

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F
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Look on the left side of this page for the image posting policy and read all about it. You have to load them on some other site like photobucket and post links here.


1953 Chevrolet 3600
Fried Green T'mater (Vern)
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Caution: Political Statement
Man who runs in front of car gets tired, man who runs behind car gets exhausted.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 124
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 124
i've been using an angle grinder with a wire brush as well as a 3m paint removing pad.

if you dont already have an angle grinder it may come in handy on some other project as well.

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,066
Bolter
Bolter
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welcome to the bolt


Redryder pix
My Hotrod
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H
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Look for sales on a good angle grinder. My Dewalt has done extremely well and taken a heck of a beating. I'm sure everone has their favorite brand as well.

Hank


1951 restoration on website
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.hanklong.com
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G
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Welcome to the Bolt! I agree with Hank Dewalt is hard to beat. It takes a beating but keeps on truckin! I have a 4 1/2" Dewalt and a 6" Metabo. They're great with wire brush, cutting wheels, grinding discs, abrasive pads. I also purchased a air die grinder which is excellent for those hard to reach spots using a 2 or 3 inch stripper pad. 3M makes the pads but if you do a little looking you can find them at harbor freight or tool wholesale shops at quite a savings. Have fun and wear a dust mask!

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K
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 46
Hi, it's Kevin again. If I did it right here is a link to some pics. Note the last, my quesion is...do I need to take the frame all the way down to the "shiny metal" or just down to the 'black'? Here is the link http://pbckt.com/sZ.w1d Hope it works.

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C
Wrench Fetcher
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Welcome brother. I would look into chemical strippers for that as well.


everybody is ignorant @ something.the more we work together, the less ignorance there is floating around
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G
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Kevin, what are your plans for coating your frame? If I am going to be welding on an area I'll take it down to clean shiny metal, the mig doesn't like rust. Otherwise I use the wirebrush to clean off all the loose particals clean it and coat it with Por-15 (It likes seasoned metal the best) If you have the means sand or media blast will clean it up nicely. The path we choose is usually dictated by time, money and rescources and what we are able to do ourselves. I travel through the week with work so one the weekends I have to divide my time between family, farm chores and my truck. I have had mine a year now and slowly making progress.

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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Kevin, your link works fine. Nice truck BTW.
Try and remove as much,if not all the original black paint.
(It's tough stuff!)
I then used POR Metal Ready which neutralises the rust and provides a good key for the top coat and as Gmans 46 already mentions it likes 'seasoned' metal.
Here's a pic of my chassis after painting.
I brush painted and was more than happy with the results!


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 252
G
Shop Shark
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Looking Good Jock!

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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Gmans 46
Looking Good Jock!

Thanks! blush


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 446
I
Shop Shark
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Posts: 446
That's a nice looking truck! Did it run and drive when you bought it? Looks to be a great find.


Moderated by  Achipmunk, Rusty Rod 

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