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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 50
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Is there a list of adjusments needed on the Quadrajet carburators? I am rebuilding one on my 70' 3/4 ton GMC

Last edited by 49' Hayhauler; 11/19/2009 4:55 AM.

1949 Chevy 4400 Grainbed
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Should be included with the overhaul kit,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

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Wrench Fetcher
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Ok I was hoping it would be. Since I have this thread going I was also wondering about the front wheel bearings. I repacked my bearings on the 70' GMC two wheel drive. I set the bearings just by feel. I put a little pre-load on them. Is this correct procedure for that or is there a set end play needed?


1949 Chevy 4400 Grainbed
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The taxpayers are sending congressmen on expensive trips abroad. It might be worth it except they keep coming back!

Behind every successful rancher is a wife who works in town.
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M
'Bolter
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On the Quadrajet, you might find the rebuild procedure in the shop manual. Try the old car manual project. These carbs were used a lot so you may not be limited to your truck.


1946 1-ton Panel
1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body
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G
Shop Shark
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Most times you want to turn the nut to where it is snug and all looseness is gone.
Now that don't mean put a big wrench on it and crank till it's tight, but just to the point where it's snug. Then back off that castle nut to where you can insert the cotter pin.
I usually use a small channel lock, that way I can feel the amount of torque I'm putting to it.
If you want to acquire the feel for it, tighten it, back it off,tighten it, back it off, and you will feel the the point at which it gets snug.
A tad on the loose side is better than to tight.

Dan


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Shop Shark
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last weekend on Stacey Davids Gears he ran the nut down on the bearings pretty darn tight an then backed it off 1/4 turn or to where he could locate the hole for cotter pin an gave the rotor a spin an to me it sure looked "WAY" too tight!...but I wasnt there to feel it, I have followed "glasman" Dan's way all my yrs. an it works for me.
Tim


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'Bolter
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Make sure you really blow out all the passage ways on the Q-jet. They run really great as long as they are clean. Use spray cleaner with some type of straw on the nozzel to really get all the dirt out.

Set the idle screws about 2 turns out,
make sure the metering rods are in the main jets on primary side,
and make sure the secondary rods drop in the right location.

There is a lot of moving parts, so double check your work as you go.

Joe

Joined: Sep 2008
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D
Wrench Fetcher
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http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Rochester/QJet/index.htm
I found this on the Rochester q-jet maybe it will help. You will have to thumb through it because there are several pages. Good luck. Hopefully you are smarter than I because it looks like a lot of words.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thank you all for the input. I will check my bearings again as I think I put them on to tight from what you say.



1949 Chevy 4400 Grainbed
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Photobucket pictures

The taxpayers are sending congressmen on expensive trips abroad. It might be worth it except they keep coming back!

Behind every successful rancher is a wife who works in town.

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