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| | | Forums66 Topics128,110 Posts1,056,251 Members48,437 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 4 | HOWS IT GOIN EVERYONE?! I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1966 CHEVY C10 PICKUP THAT THE SELLER ORIGINALY PURCHASED FROM AN OLD FARMER. THE ENGINE AND TRANS. HAVE 92K ORIGINAL MILES ON THEM AND SEEM TO RUN AMAZINGLY WELL (FOR NOW :))AND THE BODY HAS BEEN BONDO'D AND PAINTED, SO IT LOOKS FAIRLY DECENT. MY FIRST PRIORITY IS TO MAKE THIS TRUCK DRIVE AND RIDE AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE, AND AM SLOWLY IN THE PROCESS OF DOING SO, BUT AS IT TURNS OUT, THE TRUCK IS BEING USED AS MY EVERYDAY DRIVER (I DIDNT HAVE TOO MUCH TO SPEND BUT I DARN SURE WASNT GONNA SPEND IT ON SOME 89 COROLLA! HAHA...HAVING SAID THIS...MY MAIN CONCERN IS GETTING RID OF THE RUST ON THE FRONT END OF THE FRAME WITHOUT HAVING TO TAKE THE WHOLE ENGINE COMPARTMENT APART...I KNOW ITS FAIRLY EASY TO GET THE BED OFF THE BACK END AND JUST GO AT IT WITH A GRINDER, BUT IM NOT SURE HOW TO GO ABOUT GETTING INTO ALL THE TIGHT AREAS OF THE FRONT END TO EFFECTIVELY REMOVE AS MUCH RUST AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT PUTING MY TRUCK OUT OF COMMISSION...ANYWAY...SORRY THIS POST IS A LITTLE LONG WINDED, BUT IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEAS IM ALL EARS!!:) | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Welcome to the Bolt valero. You might try spraying a rust encapsulator over the rust. Eastwood and Loctite make this kind of product..
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 | Perhaps you could pressure wash it to get the loose stuff off before you use the rust encapsulator. Samantha | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I've used a pressure washer with pretty good results. What worked for me was 3500 psi washer. You can pull a lot of the surface rust off of the frame. Just be careful of soft parts (wires, hoses, fingers, etc.). You can also push out gaskets on small parts like carburetors and valve covers if you are not careful. I use Ironguard equipment enamel from the local implement dealer. It comes in quarts, gallons and spray bombs. You can paint it on bare metal and it comes in several colors. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Clean it the best you can & get some Rust-o-leom rusty metal primer. You can spray it on & as soon as it flashes over, about a half hour, you can paint over it with a semi-flat-black or let it dry for 24 hours & then paint it. You will have a smooth durable finish ready to use the next day. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 190 | A needle gun from Harbor freight will work pretty good for frame stuff. It knocks off the loose stuff good, we used them all the time onboard ship to de rust. If you have a pretty good compressoir, I have used mine on frame parts and rear end and such, does a pretty good job - just makes a hell of a rackit. I got mine from Harbor freight, have to say its worked pretty good - had it about 3 years now, good luck. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 6 | i'm gonna use rust bullet. i bought a can but haven't tried it yet. | | |
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