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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
V
New Guy
New Guy
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
HOWS IT GOIN EVERYONE?! I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1966 CHEVY C10 PICKUP THAT THE SELLER ORIGINALY PURCHASED FROM AN OLD FARMER. THE ENGINE AND TRANS. HAVE 92K ORIGINAL MILES ON THEM AND SEEM TO RUN AMAZINGLY WELL (FOR NOW :))AND THE BODY HAS BEEN BONDO'D AND PAINTED, SO IT LOOKS FAIRLY DECENT. MY FIRST PRIORITY IS TO MAKE THIS TRUCK DRIVE AND RIDE AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE, AND AM SLOWLY IN THE PROCESS OF DOING SO, BUT AS IT TURNS OUT, THE TRUCK IS BEING USED AS MY EVERYDAY DRIVER (I DIDNT HAVE TOO MUCH TO SPEND BUT I DARN SURE WASNT GONNA SPEND IT ON SOME 89 COROLLA! HAHA...HAVING SAID THIS...MY MAIN CONCERN IS GETTING RID OF THE RUST ON THE FRONT END OF THE FRAME WITHOUT HAVING TO TAKE THE WHOLE ENGINE COMPARTMENT APART...I KNOW ITS FAIRLY EASY TO GET THE BED OFF THE BACK END AND JUST GO AT IT WITH A GRINDER, BUT IM NOT SURE HOW TO GO ABOUT GETTING INTO ALL THE TIGHT AREAS OF THE FRONT END TO EFFECTIVELY REMOVE AS MUCH RUST AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT PUTING MY TRUCK OUT OF COMMISSION...ANYWAY...SORRY THIS POST IS A LITTLE LONG WINDED, BUT IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEAS IM ALL EARS!!:)

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
Welcome to the Bolt valero. You might try spraying a rust encapsulator over the rust. Eastwood and Loctite make this kind of product..


~Jim
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 334
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 334
Perhaps you could pressure wash it to get the loose stuff off before you use the rust encapsulator.
Samantha


1954 Chevy 3100
Picked from the Field
Follow in the DITY
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Welcome to the Bolt!


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
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1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
I've used a pressure washer with pretty good results. What worked for me was 3500 psi washer. You can pull a lot of the surface rust off of the frame. Just be careful of soft parts (wires, hoses, fingers, etc.). You can also push out gaskets on small parts like carburetors and valve covers if you are not careful. I use Ironguard equipment enamel from the local implement dealer. It comes in quarts, gallons and spray bombs. You can paint it on bare metal and it comes in several colors.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Clean it the best you can & get some Rust-o-leom rusty metal primer. You can spray it on & as soon as it flashes over, about a half hour, you can paint over it with a semi-flat-black or let it dry for 24 hours & then paint it. You will have a smooth durable finish ready to use the next day.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
A needle gun from Harbor freight will work pretty good for frame stuff. It knocks off the loose stuff good, we used them all the time onboard ship to de rust. If you have a pretty good compressoir, I have used mine on frame parts and rear end and such, does a pretty good job - just makes a hell of a rackit. I got mine from Harbor freight, have to say its worked pretty good - had it about 3 years now, good luck.

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
i'm gonna use rust bullet. i bought a can but haven't tried it yet.


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