The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Gas tank cleaning.

Well, I'm trying to get my tank cleaned. I've washed all of the old gunk out, but once it drys there is a little powdery rust left at the bottom, and when I wash it out again, not all of it comes out. It is a LOT cleaner than it was when I started, no more varnished gas left, but there IS still the problem of rust. I know that we should take it to a radiator shop, but if they won't touch it, as some here have had that experience, what could I do? I don't really want to buy a new tank even if it is cheaper as my tank is in good condition, only two pin holes from where water had gotten between the pads for the straps, and that is the only two areas with rust on them, and I have fixed that. The inside for the most part is shiney, with little rust on it, and the powdery rust moving around inside that I can't get out, it's really fine and just won't come out, unless I put some GAS in it and then pour it out into somehthing. Water won't even do as much as the gas will and gas is very expensive.

if its a powder that you can move around with your hand try using a vaccum cleaner to suck the rest out, just do the best you can and run multiple inline off the shelf fuel filters for a while

Nate

Jordan,
sounds like you have your tank pretty clean.
maybe your tank is a prime candidate for a tank sealer?, being your rust is very light.
cant hurt to double up on sealing those few pinholes from the inside that could come back an haunt ya later?, maybe the sealer would be a good thing for no worries later?
Totally up to you.
Tim

I've used RedKote with great success. Just be sure to follow the instructions.

I have always taken my gas tanks and radiators to Bob. Bob is the radiator man who boils them clean then pressurizes them to see if/where there are leaks.

I would not coat the gas tank. I would save my money until I could afford a new one. But that is me.

I used KBS Coatings, the kit was around 60 bucks or so, my tank was real dirty and probably should have been replaced with a new one. However at the time I decided to use the KBS.

Basically this is a 3 step process of cleaning, etching, and sealing.

I removed my tank, cleaned it out re well with castrol super clean, and then just water, then I put gravel in tank to beat the side walls loose of any rust (boy that makes your arms pretty tired) Then I used the cleaner, then I used the etcher, and then the sealer. I haven;t had any real problems as of yet, however I have heard after you reseal you need to keep the tank full or sometimes the sealer can pull off.

I saved a bit of money, but it would have been easier to replace the tank

Old Iron Chevy, I thought of using a vacuumn cleaner and my mom said I couldn't. So that is out of the options. My brother told me to keep on using gas. He said to put a little gas in the tank, shake it around, dump it out, put a little more in, repeat, and then flood the tank with a water hose for 1/2 an hour. I think that my neighbor(mechanic) told him this. I'm curious, but just how do you go about sealing the tank?

jdl, theres probably about 10,000 posts on gas tank cleaning and sealers.

I wouldnt use gas to clean it, the fumes could ignite. If anything use diesel. Get some nice clean peagravel or a bucket of old bolts and add a few gallons of water. Plug the holes and roll it around the yard until your arms hurt. Then empty the rocks or bolts out and just stick a hose in the filler neck and leave it on for awhile, eventually all the loose rust and dirt will drain out of the bottom.

Good luck!

Jeff

Once the rust has started it'll continue. Just keeping gas in the tank won't stop it so you'll either need to coat it or replace it. While I've had excellent experiences using coatings, it is expensive & has to be done right or it can fail. If a new tank is available for your truck, that would probably be the best way to go. Short term you can probably get by with not doing anything but putting a good inline filter on the gas line to stop any particles from getting into the carb. Eventually you'll need to address the issue though.

To get the rust powder out,try sticking a compressed air blow-gun in the tank and just keep moving it around;it'll blow all the loose dust out the same hole the blow gun is aimed in through. Might be worthwhile to add an extension a foot or so long,made of copper tubing or an old brake line to the blow gun,so you can get the air close enough to the far corners to loosten the more stubborn deposits.If you don't seal the tank,pour something like WD-40 in,maybe a cup or two,and slosh it around until you're sure it's covered the inside real well,that'll keep it from rusting until you can get it installed and filled with liquid gold. I've also gotten in the habit of putting 2 or 3 capfuls of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank with each fill-up,seems to keep rust from being a problem,keeps the accelerator pump limber and,for SOME reason,seems to make the engine thing it's getting a little higher octane gas. (Still haven't figured that one out,but I know it works.)
Speed

Tiny, I would seal it, but I still need to get the rust out, and as for it being expensive, it isn't any more than a new tank. Anyone know how much the sealers cost right now? I've seen from $60 to $160 so I don't know, but I did do a search and didn't really find anything to tell me. If it's $160 I don't know if it would even be worth saving the tank, even if it is in good condition. I'll try to see about getting the water hose fixed(the pipe broke off that the hose attaches to) and then I'll try to get it all out, and then the sealing, if it is worth it not to buy a new tank.

JDL: everyone has their story and here is mind. I know that you have limited resources and limited funds at this time since you can't "legally" hold a job. All things considered I would suggest going the coating route. It will last plenty long enough for you to enjoy the truck and since its not a big pain to take out you can be watching for a really nice tank or later when you start working you can save a little for a new tank if your desire is to keep the truck long term.
Its been about 7 years ago that I used the POR15 kit on my 37 truck. Then it was about $50 so expect to pay a little more today. It came with everything except muriatic acid which is cheap at Lowes or Home Depot or local hardware store. It took me and my nephew one evening to do the job. The coating is still holding up like a champ. Sometimes the truck sits for a month or two without much gas and sometimes it has mostly a full tank.
Since your cleaning it so good I suspect one inline filter would be OK. I think I changed mine once after I drove the truck a while and never had any problem since. The little "canister" filters are cheap and easy to drive. Just remember, your not doing a show truck right now so functionality is the goal.

Now if anyone wanted to donate a nice tank I'm sure you would not mind it....right!

I just had my tank RedKoted at a local radiator shop and cost me $110.00 to get it done. That will give you a general idea how much.

The last RedKote job I did (on Sweetie), the coating was $25 per qt. or $75 per gal. with one quart being "enough" to do the tank. It's probably a bit higher now. I bought a gallon. My reasoning for that is you can put a thimble full of oil in a quart jar and eventually get the inside coated. If you put four times that amount of oil in the jar it coats more quickly and thoroughly. Plus I was left with enough extra to do more if the need ever arises.

Thanks guys, going to try to see about a radiator shop, if not I guess it'll have to be done at home.

jdl, I think Achipmunk hit the nail on the head. Clean it out as best you can and stuff it back in the truck with a filter underneath it. Functionallity should be your first goal since your on a budget. Its a lot of work to properly clean and seal it, plus your dealing with some pretty nasty chemicals if you do it yourself.

If its functional and will work as is, that money could go towards something that really needs it!

Good luck!

Jeff

Ok, I hope everything goes ok when I put it back in, then.

I agree, clean it out the best you can and then put it back in. Put a good filter before the fuel pump and after and it should be fine until you can get a new tank or have it recoated professionaly.

I would follow a bit of everyones advice, try flushing the tank out with water (with nuts and bolts or peagravel) to remove the stubborn deposits and then use compressed air as stated by speed6351 to blow all the loose deposits and dust out, then either put it back in the truck and fill it with fuel or coat the inside with wd-40 or the like so it doesn't rust while its sitting waiting to go in the truck. Id still run a good filter before and after the fuel pump just to make sure.

Well, I finally got most of the rest of the stuff out of my gas tank. I found that the biggest part of everything moving around the tank was the remainder of my sending unit float, which had somehow deteriorated. After it and a little more powdered rust came out with a little gas, when I flipped the tank over I couldn't hear anything else move around so I decided to put the tank back in. So I put the sending unit back in, and the tank is back in now, hooked up, and partly full of gas. My question now is: should I put some fuel treatment in just in case I didn't get all of the water and all that out?

It sure wouldn't hurt to do that.

I thought the same thing.

I'd do it just to preserve the integrity of the fuel. I would reccomend putting an ounce or two of Sta-Bil in the tank as you will not be running and may cause problems later.
You do not have to buy a big bottle of Sta-bil as it is not to cheap but they make a small bottle that cost least than five bucks. Only add the correct amount and a small bottle will last a long time in your situation.

Well, I did just that, Alvin. Downside is, my sending unit clogged. At this point I'm just about ready to buy that new tank.

new tanks don't solve the sending unit problem. They don't come with the sending unit. SOOOO why not just solve the sending unit problem and go from there!

Because my sending unit got clogged from everything in the tank.

I believe you are referring to the fuel pick-up tube that is attached to the sending unit. Try running a wire through it then blow some carb and choke cleaner spray through it. Of course this is a temporary fix because you need a new sending unit anyway but it should get you running around the yard again. When you order the new sending unit, splurge for the screen for it too.

Yes, I CERTAINLY am going to get the screen. Of course, right now I'm more worried about the electrical problems I'm having, seeing as my ammeter is not allowing my truck to have any power and I had to run a wire from the starter switch to the coil to get it to run. Looks like I'll need an ammeter too.