Are you sure your points are opening and closing as they should and are gapped properly. If they are, then is electric power getting to the points and/or the coil. I've said the following a million times at least "A new part does not necessarily mean a good part" so my next logical suspicion is that the coil is no good.
First let's old-school hot wire that truck. Since I have typed most of this message, I can't go back and review all the prior posts so excuse me if I repeat or say something redundant.
Two, I am assuming that you are working with all functional parts.
Three, pull the distributor cap and observe the points while cranking the engine to make sure they are opening and closing. also observe the direction of the rotation of the rotor.
Four, run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the "+" terminal on the coil, this will be the side that does not go to the distributor points. While doing this make sure that the coil is not wired backwards. The two posts should be marked in some way indicating one of them as positive and the other as negative or distributor.
Five, replace the distributor cap and make one final check of the firing order. Are the wires in order and the same direction as the rotor was turning in step three?
Six, a shot of starting fluid down the throat of the carb and a crank should fire it up. If it don't start now we may have to take a look at the timing chain or timing gears.
Now for your internet connection, Wildblue.net is running a Gov't program for situations like you describe where no other than dial-up is available. I got a sweet deal for $40/month just recently. It would be worth looking into to see if you qualify.
