I did test the coil and found it had a bad primary coil. I had my findings double checked by a mechanic I've dealt with for 20+ years who now works at Autozone. So I don't just use the shotgun approach. I figured that with a truck that sat for at least 10 years without running, that has no spark and had to have squirrel nest material cleaned out of it that I would begin with the basics.
First, clean things up. Then get a battery so I would be able to test it. After the battery, I tested the coil. It was bad, so I replaced it.
BTW, I already did by a cheap VOM and that's how I checked the coil. I checked the values against those listed in the Motors Manual. I also just got back in from testing the coil as you suggested. I may not be doing this right. I get the same value at the positive and negative posts. 12 volts in 'on' and 9 volts when cranking. I put the red (positive) lead on the post and the negative to the valve cover for ground. Did I do this wrong?
Mike
PS I am not a mechanic by trade and no one I work with knows how to work on cars. I have managed to rebuild a Quadrajet carburetor in a 79 Olds and restore it to running condition so I am willing to try to repair this myself if possible.
