Stuart,
Great reply. Just talking with others about this stuff helps.
I know in this case it's not stovebolt, but I'll continue the thread in hopes it's still helpful to someone, not just me.
Naturally, there's no viewable timing marks (that I KNOW of) on this engine. The manual says to set to TDC, set points to JUST start opening, and you're done. There's no vacuum advance, just cetrifugal. Sounds easy, right?!
Well, that's what DIDN'T work for me. Manually advancing the dizzys did the trick, but, not having done this before, I was surprised at the RPM increase I could effect. I'm guessing that theoretically, I could, at idle, keep advancing until it was so far ahead, it would backfire, or just not run?!
One of my two tachs (there's one on the pump panel as well - what fun!) read around 800 or so when I thought it sounded strong. Seems high to me, but I haven't worked on the carbs, which are a pair of one-barrel Zeniths.
SOOOO, I should probably adjust the carbs for smooth running at idle, set idle at factory rpm (have to research that!), THEN adjust advance?
Since it's hardly likely I could determine "ping" under load (fun trying to manually advance two distributors while flyin' down the road - maybe I could go "lights and siren"!), I suppose what I will do is drive it some as is, see how it seems, and adjust accordingly.
ONE more symptom: WHEN WARM, the engine runs on ("diesels"), not wanting to die. (LOVE that emotion in a truck!!!). I've been told that CAN mean too much advance.
I don't much care for its death rattle, sortof a pain to put it in gear and ease the clutch out to kill it.
I'm rambling . . . sorry. It's all just SOOOO interesting! ;-)
-Michael
