Allen,
It sounds like you are making very good progress. I am not sure if you have or have not had the rig actually running, but here are some thoughts.
I think you were perfect in regards to the oil quantity. I don't know for sure, but until you verify it, 5 quarts would be safe.
As I mentioned earlier, the resistor does get hot, that's how it works. How hot..I don't know. I wouldn't think the wires leading to it and from it should get hot, but again, I don't know.
After you install the new switch at the starter, a wire will go from the new little post to the + side of the coil. This wire will give full voltage to the coil under a "start" mode, then the wire going through the resistor will supply reduced voltage when the engine is running. Depending on how the truck is wired, you could have two leads on the + side of the coil.
I like to time the engine a little differently than most folks...especially when a stomp starter is involved. I pull all the plugs and turn the engine over with the fan. Put your finger over #1 spark plug hole (nearest fan) and you will feel the air rush out as it comes up on its compression stroke.
Lay a flashlight or trouble light on the engine so you can see into the bellhousing at the marks on the flywheel. As you slowly pull the fan over and the air starts to whistle by your finger, go slow and watch the timing hole..presto, the mark will pop into view....this is TDC #1.
Now you insert the distributor..you actually only care that the tang engages the oil pump. If not engaged the distributor won't seat so you will know when it's right.
If you want to get fancy when you do this, leave the rotor on (cap off) and make the rotor point to the approximate location of the front cylinder. I can't remember who said this...maybe WRENCHBENDER..I think this is how the real mechanics did it.
When the distributor is in and seated with the oil pump, find the mid point of its rotational adjustment, and snug it down. Put the rotor on and put a little mark on the distributor case showing where the rotor is pointing. When you put the cap on, one of the towers (on the cap) will be close to the mark you make..presto, that is now the official plug wire location for cylinder #1.
Following the direction of rotation for the distributor, stick the wires into the cap, following your firing order, which you have on a piece of paper next to you. If you want you can mark them somehow, or just put the plugs back in and attach the wire to the plug.
You can go a step further by actually static timing the points to just start to open on #1, or when ready to start, just watch the engine. If it is too advanced, it will burp and try to start backward. The distributor is only snug, so you can retard it...or advance it, as needed.
If the valves are set, the timing is set, the points are set and there is fuel, it will do something. Be sure on your firing order...check it at least twice making sure you going with the rotation of the rotor. Make sure you have your throttle return spring on...
If you have oil, water, fuel, a charged battery, and some luck, your next post will be "IT'S ALIVE".
I hope I haven't insulted your intelligence in any way by clunking through these procedures a step at a time...I approach problems this way and it usually gets positive results.
Stuart
