I do have all new parts. I went right by the recomended diagram from Pirate Jacks. The new dual M/C has no evidence of existing residual valves. I bought the 30$ vacum pump/bleeder. It worked a lot better then the speed bleeders and $6.99 bleeding bottle, which is now in the garbage.

My first mistake, as pointed out, was not adjusting out the shoes all the way. On the front, both cylinders had pushed the end caps off. After correcting every thing and bleading again, they begin to actually ingage cylinders and work. Right side much better then left. I am getting a geyser in the M/C which I believe dictate there must still be air in the system.

On the rear I sucked air untill I gave up and went to bed.

With a pressure bleeder system I think the leaks would be more obvious, "look it must be leaking where all the brakefluid is"

With this vacuum bleeder system I think Im sucking air in with know visual evidence of the leak. I was able to hear one leak but cant find any more.

I was told to tape up the connections with "good stretchy" electrical tape and that will likely stop all air leaks in the lines around the couplings.

If this works it will be gratifing to isolate issues to just mear leaks in line system rather than new hardwear or complete improper arrangment.

What do yall think?

I'm slow, but consistent........consistently slow!

Loy, 1950 Chevy 3600 3/4-Ton

http://s522.photobucket.com/user/Shellology/library/1950%20Chevy%20Truck?sort=3&page=1