If you haven't sorted this out yet, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1) The steering gear has a high spot right at dead center where the slop is to be measured. Anywhere else in its rotation will have significantly more slop. There is a procedure in the manual for finding dead center. If you adjust the slop anywhere else, the steering box will bind as it goes over dead center.

2) Put your hand on the pitman arm and the steering box simultaneously while someone else rotates the steering wheel back and forth about 6" against the resistance of the tires on the floor. You are checking for wear in the pitman shaft bearing/bushing. There should be none if its a bearing. More than just a very small amount (a few thousandths) if it's a bushing and you need to pull the box and overhaul it.

3) Use the same technique to check for play in the drag link and tie rod ends, i.e. use your hand to feel the slop. Older ones have springs that can be adjusted. If not the spring type, there should be no lateral/radial movement. You can check for wear in the modern ones with a big pair of Channellock pliers to see how much axial play there is. New ones have very little to none, worn ones can have maybe 1/8 before there will be radial movement. The springs are stiff so squeeze hard.

4) King pins (king bolts) will always have a little slop unless they are brand new and recently greased. There is a spec for grease clearance, maybe 0.002-0.004. Loose wheel bearings can be misinterpreted as king pin slop, so make sure to adjust the wheel bearings by the book with a torque wrench not just by feel.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.