Sorry for the absence, I was going to post last week but I didn't really have much to say so I thought I would hold off until this week when I had completed some work and had more of an update.
I started in on the doors with the intent of installing the bear claw latches. Once I opened up the doors though I changed my mind. The folks I talked to about it when I was contemplating the mod were all "oh yeah, they are way safer and an important upgrade" once I got into it and it was looking like thing were not an easy fit... the tune changed somewhat. Yes, the bear claw latches are more secure, however if your stock latches are working as designed and not worn they are still safe. Okay, with that in mind, I have decided not to change them. It is not a cost thing, as the latches are relatively cheap at about 125.00 CAD. The install is somewhat intrusive as you need to cut a section of the door out to install the receiver/latch assembly. Reinforcing the cab when the latching post is mounted is recommended as well. The sticking point for me was that I could not use the stock door handles. The latch release box is a kind of remote set up in that the door lever is connected with a cable to the latch rather than a direct linkage. The stock setup is a square post through a matching square receiver in the door, like a home knob set up. To make room for the latch release box, the bear claw would need to be moved down the door. Cutting and removing the stock set up and fabricating and installing the new latch mounts would be about 4 hours each I figure. I couldn't get past the fact that the latch boxes were set up for a Ford handle, but the stock door handles have some really nice detail cast into them. The latches were working smoothly prior to removing the door panels, however they are sticking now. I figure once I have repaired any wear, cleaned and greased them they will be good as new. I was pleasantly surprised as well at how solid the insides of the doors are. I am not sure if the sound deadener in there was original, but I know that the last guys to work on the truck did not replace it. ( splash and dash deluxe )
I have been procrastinating about finishing the box bed, I had not really thought deciding to make my own through thoroughly. A pre-cut kit would have all the holes line up and fit and would have been really nice and quick. Then I remembered that I had moved the cross rail supports as well, so absolutely nothing lined up. I had to move the cross supports to make room for the tubs, which are making room for the kick-[censored] oversize tires I chose! I love them boots!!! Anyways, the domino effect is that nothing lines up hole wise. Wait, that is not completely true, the front and rear bed rail holes are okay, as they were not drilled yet. I have also reinforced the bed as I have mentioned before I intend on trucking my motorcycle around in the back so I needed additional support for the tie down system. I have been putting this off as I didn't have much enthusiasm about getting the brain juices worked up to figure it all out. Too bad princess, get'er done right, so I got to it and here is the result. I am about 75% done. I started by bolting the E-track down to the bed board it sits on. Then I started in the center and worked my way out bolting the rails down and drilling the front and rear end holes. I could then figure out where I need to add metal to securely bolt the tie down rails to the frame. I thought about using angle iron, but went with some 16ga sheet metal with 90deg edges for strength. I tend to lean towards the overbuilt end of the spectrum, bigger is better right?? I am hoping that my efforts to resist that don't come back to haunt me. I thought the sheet metal would spread the load out over a larger surface area allowing me to go with a lighter material ( compared to 1/8" angle iron ) You can see in the pictures how it turned out and I am happy with it so far. I needed the bolts to mount the tie down rails down as I need the heads to be flush so they don't interfere with the chrome bed strips. I am intending on bolting every 2nd hole on the tie down strips ( E-track ) , have a look at the pictures, even I think bolting every hole would be overkill.
Anyways, thanks again for following along. Let me know if you have any comments or concerns, I am happy to answer any questions you may have.
See the attached word doc for the pictures. Regards, Steve
1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll! (SOLD) 1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
