The Stovebolt Site Forums Active Threads Since Yesterday

I finished the rear end for the suburban, all seemed tight, quiet with no slack and nothing looked worn. I did change the axel bearings and seals anyway while I was there. New calipers, emergency brake pads, rotors, dust covers and hoses. Will be putting it on the frame next.

Subject truck : ‘54 (series 1) 3100
Recently my drivers side window dropped down abruptly and it ain’t coming back up. The window components are original and heavily worn , so replacement seems in order rather than repair. I’ve read that some repros need tooling and adjustment to work properly , and I wish to avoid that. What is the best source for a window regulator for my truck?
CK

Hy Guys, One important thing that seems to have been forgotten since most non front wheel drive cars went to tapered roller bearings, is that ball type front wheel bearings are adjusted with a torque wrench, not by a clearance. Ball type front wheel bearings up to two ton trucks are adjusted to 33 foot pounds, 2 1/2 ton trucks are adjusted to 55 foot pounds, back off the torque setting just enough to get the cotter pin in the hole. Incidentally all front wheel drive vehicles I am aware of ride on ball bearing front wheel bearings, so why the rush to convert from ball to tapered roller bearings?

Duration at .050" is the amount of rotation degrees the valve is open starting at .050" after opening to .050" before closing. It's very hard to see on a dial indicator when the valve starts to open from zero lift, it could be 15 degrees or more of rotation before the valve is at .050" open, same with closing. So as an industry standard, the cams are advertised with duration @ .050", it's easy to see on an indicator. The first and last .050" is very hard to measure accurately, it usually takes a dial indicator that reads in 10,000's to get a somewhat accurate reading.

Valve lift is just that, the amount of lift the valve head moves off the seat.

Camshaft lift is how much total lift the lobe has from its base circle.

Rocker arm ratio describes how much more lift the valve has over the camshaft. A typical V8 usually has a 1.5 ratio where the valve moves 1.5 times as much as the lifter does. Race engines increase the ratio up to 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 etc.... you gain lift as the ratio increases. It comes at a cost though, you increase pressure on camshaft, pushrods, and rocker arms as the ratio increases. With the older engines like the 235 that didn't get a lot aftermarket parts, you are stuck with factory spec parts, where as a small block Chevy has everything you can imagine from the aftermarket suppliers. Also, the camshaft bore in the block dictates how much lift a camshaft can have. It must fit in the hole. Higher ratio rocker arms gives more lift over the camshaft phisical limits.

Centerline of a cam lobe is the point dead center of the total duration of the lobe.

Centerline of the camshaft is the centerline between peak opening of intake and exhaust lobes. Two per cylinder, each cylinder being the same. https://claysmithcams.com/blog/defining-lobe-center-/

All these number describe the timing of the valves to the location of the pistons. More lift equals more time for air to enter and exit the cylinder, longer duration means the valves are held open longer for more time to fill and empty the cylinders. Lift and duration do the same thing. The amount of air flow a head can supply is directly related to camshaft choice. If the cylinder does not flow air at high valve lift, there no need for a high rocker ratio. A 235 head does not flow a lot of air, thus the very mild camshafts.

Just to be clear I can run the Chevy small blocks springs and retainers on both intake and exhaust? If I run the stainless SBC exhaust valves I need the boot or umbrella style oil defector on the exhaust valve and can still use the o-ring style on the intake valves?

Shady

Nothing like being a bit silly

Alvin was the first contact I had on Stovebolt and have had a great time with with him Stovebolt family is a great family

If Sweet can't help closer to Spotsyltucky... I had *exceptional* work done by Mattingly's Machine Shop in Compton (Leonardtown) MD on my 261's crankshaft. Not sure if they work on heads, but it'll be worth asking.

Since I moved to Alabama 2 years ago, I've found an exceptional machine shop here for doing heads (I've had three done so far -- all exceptional work) so if you want to ship this far, look up Lincoln County Auto Parts in Fayetteville, TN. Alan does great work.

Chevrolet(maybe GMC) 216 overhead oil fitting . If you have a 216, you know what this is.
I just happened across numerous of these.
35.00 eaplus minimal postage from Calif.

Ready, Set, Go...

Sorry to hear you're having to part with your truck Kurt. I hope there's a fellow 'Bolter that's in need of a project that can give your truck a new home.

Best of luck with your sale!

Great to hear! Congrats ad thanks for coming back and updating. I'll leave it up for tonight so folks can celebrate with you, then send it on it's way tomorrow.

If you wind up buying a valve spring compressor tool, be sure you're able to return it. I got one from Amazon and it didn't work at all. It was just not set up for the head. It was a C-type with toggle leverage, but it couldn't span far enough to be able to even start moving the lever. It got returned in short order.
The rental approach is the way to go. Get the biggest and baddest one that they have. You'll have to put a deposit down, but that's 100% refundable when you return it within the prescribed time. O'Reilly is 48 hours IIRC.

The photo posted shows an area circled in black. Is it the spring or the metal slide or the entire latch assembly being searched for?

Push the rings into the bore with a piston so the rings are square to the bore, measure the end gap, hopefully that will tell you of any abnormal wear. I think the oil rings can go in either way. When you pulled the heads, did you look at the underside of the valve head through the ports, wondering if oil is cooking on the valves due to guide/stem/seal leakage?

I like to drive, I like to drive trucks, I like to drive my trucks in the winter, the '57 eats enough gas that it doesn't sit long in the tank. The Vette and bikes get Sta-Bil.

Your truck has a fuel pickup tube that goes in from the top, right? It doesn't flow out of the bottom via gravity like the earlier tanks, right?

Working on it.

i need to flip my calender in the kitchen. It still on September so say hello to Papa joe every morning!!

Tut, yall have a blast tomorrow..........sorry I can't make it but I'll be thinking about ya while on Dialysis!!.

Looking for a door lock for a '41 Chevy truck

Thanx, the idea is an early sixties era tribute, my early teen years, when my Dad was an engine builder / machinist.

Joe, I can't thank enough for all of that information. It's taken a load off of my concern for the state of my valve seats, and for running the motor and driving without necessarily having to baby it all the time.

Yes - not sure why I thought 4 bolt cover

Chuck, at least you don't live in Alaska. I could tell you stories about shipping cost.

Tolisko - I have a question for you, aside from my point about providing very important information concerning your offered tires. (Same as I posted in your other ad)

Wondering why you're pricing these for a cash sale 25% higher ($1000) for Stovebolter's here than you are in your Craigslist ad ($750) and why they shouldn't just go to your Craigslist ad and buy them that way if they want them???

Doesn't seem like your offering any kind of a great deal to the community IMHO.