The Stovebolt Site Forums Active Threads This Week

https://www.gm.com/heritage/archive/vehicle-information-kits

Here is the Heritage Center information kits link.

We had / have this site on some of our legacy pages..I think Kevin Hansen was our go between for awhile. Maybe he can tell us more.

How about $40 each plus shipping?

I have a recovery tank mounted down by my motor mount on my 250, fluid comes in the top through a tube that reaches the bottom of the tank, the over flow tube is just inside the tank and dumps on the ground if the tank ever fills up all the way. I used a 12" piece of 3" exhaust pipe, some 3/8" brake line. and some sheet metal caps. Its all welded together so I can't really see how much is in it, as long as it doesn't dump any out I'm happy. I do check the radiator every now and then. I don't believe it matters where you mount the overflow, thermo expansion and contraction should move fluid where it needs to go, though most are mounted level or just below the top tank. Our 2026 school buses have the tanks above the radiators, Ford trucks are level with the tops, and most of the commercial mowers we have are close to level with the top radiator tank.

If this (pic) is what you're looking for, it has to match the gear that's on the transmission mainshaft or it'll be eaten up when you start driving. This page and the following have information on what speedometer drive gear and shaft housing (shown in the picture) are used on various vehicles. In order to get your speedometer close to correct, since you have a 3.55 rear axle gear set, you'd get closest with a speedometer gear set out of a passenger car transmission which have faster rear axle ratios than trucks (3.72 vs 4.11 for instance.) Either that or you'd need an adapter that goes on the speedometer driven gear between the transmission and speedo cable. With the info out of the parts book and some math you might be able to determine the speedometer drive and driven gear set that would work without a ratio adapter. But finding that combination would be difficult, as would be finding a ratio adapter.

Also be advised that the housing has a straight thread, and putting a pipe (tapered thread) plug in it won't work. I don't think the thread size matches any readily available bolt which might be used with a gasket, as the thread is fairly fine pitch, likely not a standard SAE fine thread.

Picture

The 1958 dealer pamphlet that Dan posted above also shows a tractor/trailer rig with just 2 headlights.

Glad to hear you made a deal and found them a new home Rusty. I've updated the ad to show the change and will leave up for today so anyone watching can see, then poof it to the big round file in the sky.

Hallelujah !! bushing is out. I used several successive drill bits up to 3/4" to accommodate the slide hammer tool. Took several strokes, but it came out. I really !!! appreciate the recommendations.

7 SEPTEMBER 2026 PAINTED MIDDLE SEAT FRAME AND STARTED MIDDLE SEAT BOTTOM SEAT SPRINGS REFURBISHMENT

I checked my receipts from 2012 and I had bought the middle and last full width seat frames and the seat spring sets with delivery from MI to Greyhound Baltimore for $2217.00. A lot of suburban's are missing those original seats.
See pics of work completed thus far.

Thanks Phil! Guess I didn't see that before.

Any interest? The exhaust heat damper works well. Make me an offer I can’t refuse!

Aahhh! Your story makes me sick to my stomach, Joe!

I think about a story my dad told me. When he was in high school, he also painted his 1933 Plymouth dark green. He used a brush and painted it out in the street in front of his house in the middle of summer.

He said the sun's heat made the paint flow out so smoothly after application, you couldn't see any brush marks. He said it it looked so good, that people thought he had it professionally done or that he had bought a new car!

Must have updated their price as the text box says "$9,500 obo"

Definitely a rare truck. Only the 2nd one I've seen offered for sale. The other one IIRC was in the PNW and sold pretty quickly.

Jerry, I ordered the push rods. Go ahead and close my request. Thanks to all who provided help.

Laboring.

It's all good. If I was to post what I paid for my rust bucket, I'd probably be laughed off the forum.
But in my defense, I needed a project to keep me off the streets in retirement. On that account, it worked.

Jack - The sunvisor I purchased is adjustable for width (side sections slide in and out of center section) and designed to mount by clamping onto on the cab drip rails and center windshield divider strip. I've added a few more pictures so you can see more details.

The one thing to be aware of with the '46 is with it having a crank out windshield, that doesn't work well with the fixed position sunvisor. You would need to either not open your windshield after the sunvisor is installed, or be prepared to loosen/adjust the mounts each time you opened/closed the windshield.

The key concern here is you must have and use the sunvisor center support mount secured to the windshield divider strip. Without that support, driving will cause the air flow to destroy the sunvisor as it's not rigid enough to be self supporting.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1053076644186956
I have what I believe is a 1941 Chevrolet complete original truck has six cylinder with granny four speed.

Not my ad. Posted for your convenience.

I had a chance to meet up with a great young Bolter, Nathan ( Stovebolt48). He is currently working on a '53 GMC and used this weekend to make a road trip for parts.

Nathan is going through Flight School in Pensacola for the U.S. Marines, he wants to be a Rotor Pilot. He swapped some training around to afford the time for this trip. He left Pensacola Saturday Morning, made a stop in Alabama for bumper brackets, then on to Knoxville and Mark ( Rusty Heaps). He picked up a set of Wheels from Mark and a Cylinder Head for me. From Mark's he headed to Georgia and my place. He did make a short detour in McDonough GA to the Summit Racing outlet.

He stopped here at my place. I added 3 more 16" wheels to his collection. He got the grand tour as I was hanging insulation in the Shop. I talked to him for just a short while, in that time he did impress me as smart, level headed young Man.

From here he was headed to Jacksonville FL tomorrow to check out a GMC engine. Then on back to Pensacola. Oh to be that young again..... Simper Fi Nathan!

Casting number "3769716" is listed in my resource documents as a 1958-62 Chevy 235 Truck engine.

The serial number "F0112A" is difficult to decode without knowing the blocks date casting code info. Look for raised (not stamped) single letter followed by a small space, one or two digits, followed by another small space and a single digit located to the rear of the stamped serial number pad.

If you can provide that info, we can better define what year engine you have and possible confirm the serial# as well.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1830321694596573
1934 Chevy truck. Very original. Has the original running gear.

NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1820315272670591
Short block core 261 Chevy straight 6 out of a 54 heavy duty truck frame. No captains bars on the casting but casting numbers and bore size prove 261ci.

NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.

Craig - That's an interesting find. Ad indicates they only made a limited run of 10 units, with 6 already sold. Not cheap, but maybe worth it for someone. Here's a snapshot of the ad's initial picture for anyone that may be interested.

Thanks for sharing.

Now ya'll got me blushing!

Thanks, Tuts!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3505406742958751
Truck started and ran the day we got it 25 years ago, and it has sat in this exact spot for 25 years.
Title in hand.
NOT MY AD. POSTED FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.