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#991907 12/11/2013 5:17 AM
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Since we are around old trucks with sometimes old original rubber or come across original parts, what are your thoughts on protecting and preserving rubber? Does Armorall help or do more damage? Maybe someone has a tried and true product they can share
Thanks

crash2012 #991949 12/11/2013 3:20 PM
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Years ago I was told to use glyserin and dust w/ talkum powder

crash2012 #991951 12/11/2013 3:30 PM
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+1 on the glycerin. Definitely stay away from Armorall...which, IMHO, as no place for any automotive application. Soaking the rubber in glycerin works well.

crash2012 #991970 12/11/2013 5:14 PM
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What rubber components are you talking about? Armorall is great on certain parts, but I'm not sure what rubber parts are being referred to?


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
crash2012 #992054 12/12/2013 1:35 AM
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If you do use Armorall, which I am totally, totally against, on any automotive application, don't apply it when anyone is painting anything anywhere in screaming distance or attempt to paint anything that it has touched. You will experience fisheye like you have never seen--even using anti-fisheye products such as "Polycracker", you will have problems. Doing a past restoration, it took me 3 weeks of hell to do a simple dash repaint because of a previous owner using the product. Also, don't sand an area prior to using anti-fisheye products. Word to the wise.


1956 Chevy 3100
261/700r4 (formerly 3 speed OD)
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket
crash2012 #992062 12/12/2013 2:06 AM
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So, where, when, and how do you get Glycern? How much does it cost? Does it make your tires look like you put "dressing" on them or does it just "preserve".
We need the whole ball of wax here to make a good informed decision!

EDIT: well, I'm not lazy so I did my own search smile

http://www.bulkapothecary.com/raw-i...ycerin/?gclid=COzYnqu_qbsCFbB9OgodoC4APg

Last edited by Achipmunk; 12/12/2013 2:07 AM.

1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
crash2012 #992064 12/12/2013 2:24 AM
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yes chip, Glycerin is commonly found in the pharmacy, it's 'food safe' and sort of like alcoholic sugar water [antifreeze], will leave a shine, but I don't think you need to soak the rubber in it, just wet a clean cloth and rub it on the rubber .... I use it as a thermal conductor in my mill equipment, it doesn't expand when heated

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
crash2012 #992072 12/12/2013 2:52 AM
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Quote
Doing a past restoration, it took me 3 weeks of hell to do a simple dash repaint because of a previous owner using the product. Also, don't sand an area prior to using anti-fisheye products. Word to the wise.

Funny story, A friend of mine had an old convertible that had the top armor alled a thousand times over the years. We decided to paint stripes on the car for accent and as you mentioned, tape would just fall off let alone paint. We tried every automotive chemical we could think of to no avail. Mel in an act of desperation asked his wife if she had any ideas. When she suggested Formula 409, he was humiliated by her response and her "stupid" suggestion. Guess what, Formula 409 will remove armor all and make it paintable.

crash2012 #992077 12/12/2013 3:25 AM
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Red, I've read for an hour on Glycerin and now know more than I ever cared to know. I've always known about the soap and use in foods but read a lot just for info.

....."Most" of us never have tires that dry rot or go bad before we wear them out unless, or course, its on our antique vehicles. That being said, is there any REAL advantages to using glycerin on our daily drivers? Especially since it contains Alcohol and since it "keeps water in".
I'm just "chatting" here and so I'm not being negative or positive, just asking questions!
I have a set of BFG on my 37 for over 10 years that still look good although they are getting a little slick on the rear smile However, it does stay inside most of the time. I've used stuff like Son of a Gun, Mequairs, and other tire "dressings".

So, is it an advantage to use glycerin? I guess I'll just have to try it and hope I live long enough to report back in a few years! LOL

...always enjoy new idea's and learning new stuff.

Oh, after all the reading I see how cheap some of the stuff is to make that folks pay a high price for! Maybe we need to come up with our own Stovebolt Fragrance smile


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
crash2012 #992097 12/12/2013 4:50 AM
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Question for DavidF and 56picup: Why is Armorall so bad?
I know is doesn't work for long and is pretty artificial looking but, is there anything else I should know?


1951 Chevy 3100 5-Window
"Howard"
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crash2012 #992119 12/12/2013 7:56 AM
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Ok great info, to 46gmcpu I was thinking about windshield seals, door seals, tires,etc Thanks again

crash2012 #992171 12/12/2013 6:20 PM
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I use armor all on plastic and rubber components only. It's common sense not to use products like armorall and (believe it or not) ATF on painted surfaces, to me.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
46gmcpu #992177 12/12/2013 7:05 PM
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My wife and I bought an o5 chrysler 300 and in the book says do not use armorall on the car.

crash2012 #992178 12/12/2013 7:18 PM
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crash2012 #992185 12/12/2013 7:42 PM
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I think that silicone is what strikes fear into paint guys. Fisheyes

crash2012 #992216 12/12/2013 11:43 PM
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One thing about rubber, I try to keep it out of direct sun as much as possible.

crash2012 #992223 12/12/2013 11:57 PM
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I always keep my rubbers out of the sun wink


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
crash2012 #992300 12/13/2013 5:54 AM
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So I see there is a synthetic glycerin, a vegetable oil glycerin, and a silicone glycerin what is the best one??
Thanks

crash2012 #992326 12/13/2013 3:23 PM
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Silicone eats rubber never never use


Bob
crash2012 #992331 12/13/2013 4:09 PM
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Hey, this is a good thread, I'll be following very close. I have no garage and my truck is a daily driver, so it sits outside year round and sees all types of weather. My tires, new five years ago, are weather cracked and the new vent window rubber started cracking after six months of use. I don't like Armorall because it looks and feels greasy and attracts dust and dirt. So, I'm interested in finding out what to use that is going to best protect my expensive rubber parts.

I will add that an old guy at a car show told me that back in the day they used brake fluid on tires to keep them lookig new and to prevent weather cracking. I'm reluctant to try that.

Peter_H #992344 12/13/2013 5:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter_H
Question for DavidF and 56picup: Why is Armorall so bad?
I know is doesn't work for long and is pretty artificial looking but, is there anything else I should know?

I am reluctant to say why I don't believe Armorall should ever be put on any part of a car/truck as everyone has different beliefs/opinions based on experience, word of mouth, or simply old wives tails. But, here goes...

Armorall tends to dry out the natural emulsifiers in rubber and vinyl. Vinyl is worse as the material is thin and thus it dries out faster. Once the emulsifiers are gone, the rubber/vinyl turns hard and cracks. When Armorall is applied, it sits on the top surface mostly and dries the top out first. So, the underlying material can flex and the top is stiff and brittle. Result is warping and cracking of dash, vinyl, etc. And, then there are the ingredients that others have mentioned...just try to paint (even Rustoleum) near any metal piece that has seen Armorall.

You take everything as a whole and Armorall is simply bad bad bad stuff. But, if used on tires, no harm will be done as the rubber is too thick to make any (harmful) difference. And, if you keep it on the tires, you will never paint the tires anyway.

Now, if you must use an Armorall type product, I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant. Wont dry out rubber or vinyl and has UV protection. As the ads say, "sunscreen for your stuff". 303 is water based and contains NO alcohol, petroleum, silicon, or other harmful ingredients.

Oh, BTW, I have been known to soak dry rubber in "anti-freeze" with good results. Anti-freeze/coolant contains glycerin. But, I am sure there are other harmful ingredients in the stuff.

Last edited by DavidF; 12/13/2013 6:20 PM.
crash2012 #992383 12/13/2013 9:43 PM
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I've always used Armorall on interior components, snowmobile seats, etc., and have never had a issue with drying out or cracking. I agree that it has its place, and would never use it on any painted part or anything that contacts paint. It works good when used for certain components. I don't believe in a "one-solution" product, there are several products that are useful for certain components and applications. I would never use glycerin as I don't believe that's the best product to use. But don't mind me, I'm just a materials engineer.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
crash2012 #992660 12/15/2013 5:13 AM
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Synthetic glycerin is made by a chemical process. "Natural glycerin" is made by the saponification of triglycerides in fats & oils. Unless you are a tree hugger the two are virtually identical. Not much chemical glycerin made now with all the bio-diesel sources. Silicone and glycerin are two entirely different materials - I would guess many silicones and glycerin will separate on standing.

Most anti-freeze contains ethylene glycol, chemically similar to glycerin but different. A significant amount of glycerin in ant-freeze would increase the viscosity too much.

Glycerin is very water soluble. Seems like it would disappear quickly if the rubber is exposed to any significant water (like rain).


Harold Wilson
41 Chevy 3/4 Ton
crash2012 #993116 12/17/2013 7:25 AM
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I read some really good reviews on amazon about the 303 protectant anyone here on stovebolt used it for awhile?

crash2012 #993183 12/17/2013 5:44 PM
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Originally Posted by crash2012
I read some really good reviews on amazon about the 303 protectant anyone here on stovebolt used it for awhile?


Used to but haven't for years, wasn't as good as armorall and WD-40.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket

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