Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,021 Posts1,055,346 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 | Since we are around old trucks with sometimes old original rubber or come across original parts, what are your thoughts on protecting and preserving rubber? Does Armorall help or do more damage? Maybe someone has a tried and true product they can share Thanks | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 47 | Years ago I was told to use glyserin and dust w/ talkum powder | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | +1 on the glycerin. Definitely stay away from Armorall...which, IMHO, as no place for any automotive application. Soaking the rubber in glycerin works well. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | What rubber components are you talking about? Armorall is great on certain parts, but I'm not sure what rubber parts are being referred to? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 | If you do use Armorall, which I am totally, totally against, on any automotive application, don't apply it when anyone is painting anything anywhere in screaming distance or attempt to paint anything that it has touched. You will experience fisheye like you have never seen--even using anti-fisheye products such as "Polycracker", you will have problems. Doing a past restoration, it took me 3 weeks of hell to do a simple dash repaint because of a previous owner using the product. Also, don't sand an area prior to using anti-fisheye products. Word to the wise. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | So, where, when, and how do you get Glycern? How much does it cost? Does it make your tires look like you put "dressing" on them or does it just "preserve". We need the whole ball of wax here to make a good informed decision! EDIT: well, I'm not lazy so I did my own search http://www.bulkapothecary.com/raw-i...ycerin/?gclid=COzYnqu_qbsCFbB9OgodoC4APg
Last edited by Achipmunk; 12/12/2013 2:07 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | yes chip, Glycerin is commonly found in the pharmacy, it's 'food safe' and sort of like alcoholic sugar water [antifreeze], will leave a shine, but I don't think you need to soak the rubber in it, just wet a clean cloth and rub it on the rubber .... I use it as a thermal conductor in my mill equipment, it doesn't expand when heated Bill | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 | Doing a past restoration, it took me 3 weeks of hell to do a simple dash repaint because of a previous owner using the product. Also, don't sand an area prior to using anti-fisheye products. Word to the wise. Funny story, A friend of mine had an old convertible that had the top armor alled a thousand times over the years. We decided to paint stripes on the car for accent and as you mentioned, tape would just fall off let alone paint. We tried every automotive chemical we could think of to no avail. Mel in an act of desperation asked his wife if she had any ideas. When she suggested Formula 409, he was humiliated by her response and her "stupid" suggestion. Guess what, Formula 409 will remove armor all and make it paintable. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Red, I've read for an hour on Glycerin and now know more than I ever cared to know. I've always known about the soap and use in foods but read a lot just for info. ....."Most" of us never have tires that dry rot or go bad before we wear them out unless, or course, its on our antique vehicles. That being said, is there any REAL advantages to using glycerin on our daily drivers? Especially since it contains Alcohol and since it "keeps water in". I'm just "chatting" here and so I'm not being negative or positive, just asking questions! I have a set of BFG on my 37 for over 10 years that still look good although they are getting a little slick on the rear  However, it does stay inside most of the time. I've used stuff like Son of a Gun, Mequairs, and other tire "dressings". So, is it an advantage to use glycerin? I guess I'll just have to try it and hope I live long enough to report back in a few years! LOL ...always enjoy new idea's and learning new stuff. Oh, after all the reading I see how cheap some of the stuff is to make that folks pay a high price for! Maybe we need to come up with our own Stovebolt Fragrance  | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 252 | Question for DavidF and 56picup: Why is Armorall so bad? I know is doesn't work for long and is pretty artificial looking but, is there anything else I should know? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 | Ok great info, to 46gmcpu I was thinking about windshield seals, door seals, tires,etc Thanks again | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I use armor all on plastic and rubber components only. It's common sense not to use products like armorall and (believe it or not) ATF on painted surfaces, to me. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 179 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 179 | My wife and I bought an o5 chrysler 300 and in the book says do not use armorall on the car. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I think that silicone is what strikes fear into paint guys. Fisheyes | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | One thing about rubber, I try to keep it out of direct sun as much as possible. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I always keep my rubbers out of the sun  | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 | So I see there is a synthetic glycerin, a vegetable oil glycerin, and a silicone glycerin what is the best one?? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 23 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 23 | Silicone eats rubber never never use
Bob
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | Hey, this is a good thread, I'll be following very close. I have no garage and my truck is a daily driver, so it sits outside year round and sees all types of weather. My tires, new five years ago, are weather cracked and the new vent window rubber started cracking after six months of use. I don't like Armorall because it looks and feels greasy and attracts dust and dirt. So, I'm interested in finding out what to use that is going to best protect my expensive rubber parts.
I will add that an old guy at a car show told me that back in the day they used brake fluid on tires to keep them lookig new and to prevent weather cracking. I'm reluctant to try that. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | Question for DavidF and 56picup: Why is Armorall so bad? I know is doesn't work for long and is pretty artificial looking but, is there anything else I should know? I am reluctant to say why I don't believe Armorall should ever be put on any part of a car/truck as everyone has different beliefs/opinions based on experience, word of mouth, or simply old wives tails. But, here goes... Armorall tends to dry out the natural emulsifiers in rubber and vinyl. Vinyl is worse as the material is thin and thus it dries out faster. Once the emulsifiers are gone, the rubber/vinyl turns hard and cracks. When Armorall is applied, it sits on the top surface mostly and dries the top out first. So, the underlying material can flex and the top is stiff and brittle. Result is warping and cracking of dash, vinyl, etc. And, then there are the ingredients that others have mentioned...just try to paint (even Rustoleum) near any metal piece that has seen Armorall. You take everything as a whole and Armorall is simply bad bad bad stuff. But, if used on tires, no harm will be done as the rubber is too thick to make any (harmful) difference. And, if you keep it on the tires, you will never paint the tires anyway. Now, if you must use an Armorall type product, I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant. Wont dry out rubber or vinyl and has UV protection. As the ads say, "sunscreen for your stuff". 303 is water based and contains NO alcohol, petroleum, silicon, or other harmful ingredients. Oh, BTW, I have been known to soak dry rubber in "anti-freeze" with good results. Anti-freeze/coolant contains glycerin. But, I am sure there are other harmful ingredients in the stuff.
Last edited by DavidF; 12/13/2013 6:20 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I've always used Armorall on interior components, snowmobile seats, etc., and have never had a issue with drying out or cracking. I agree that it has its place, and would never use it on any painted part or anything that contacts paint. It works good when used for certain components. I don't believe in a "one-solution" product, there are several products that are useful for certain components and applications. I would never use glycerin as I don't believe that's the best product to use. But don't mind me, I'm just a materials engineer. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 354 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 354 | Synthetic glycerin is made by a chemical process. "Natural glycerin" is made by the saponification of triglycerides in fats & oils. Unless you are a tree hugger the two are virtually identical. Not much chemical glycerin made now with all the bio-diesel sources. Silicone and glycerin are two entirely different materials - I would guess many silicones and glycerin will separate on standing.
Most anti-freeze contains ethylene glycol, chemically similar to glycerin but different. A significant amount of glycerin in ant-freeze would increase the viscosity too much.
Glycerin is very water soluble. Seems like it would disappear quickly if the rubber is exposed to any significant water (like rain).
Harold Wilson 41 Chevy 3/4 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 75 | I read some really good reviews on amazon about the 303 protectant anyone here on stovebolt used it for awhile? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I read some really good reviews on amazon about the 303 protectant anyone here on stovebolt used it for awhile? Used to but haven't for years, wasn't as good as armorall and WD-40. | | |
| |