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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
Well I got my cab and front fenders off yesterday...

I'm Pretty excited at my progress!

For those interested there are some links to pictures at my blog below. Im trying to get better at writing some on there so that I have a story when im done with all of this...

So all I have left is a frame and 2 axles with an engine and steering column...

I think im going to dissasemble the front fenders from the core support to get those parts out of the way but then I'll pull engine. Any advice of sequence? Pull transmission first? I will have an engine stand to mount that to.

I also have to cut all of the junk from a cobbed together hoist frame off the rear as well. I plan to put one back on but this is beyond repair. it looks liek any scrap of metal the PO could find was slapped on and poorly welded in place...

Question about core support: From reading on here I expected two bolts from the frame cross member into the core support. My truck had only one bolt centered. does this mean anything?

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
1
Shop Shark
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Keep up the excitment Tj M, I've been where your at a few times. I'd pull the trans and engine as a unit and take down the trans on the floor, just my way of doing these.I've cut off over 750#'s of steel trusses and brackets and other who knows what steel welded on the frame.I think the suspension came up an inch or so.My 53 GMC 2 ton had 2 core support bolts. Good work,...I love the smell of all the grease and stuff when you tear these trucks down. I wonder if there is a after shave that smells like that?


1936 Chevrolet 1.5-ton SWB
"Murtahg"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

It's only original once.
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C
Shop Shark
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I love the smell of all the grease and stuff when you tear these trucks down. I wonder if there is a after shave that smells like that?[/quote]
Wouldn't that be cool? Maybe with a hint of WD-40 :-)

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
....siliKroil smells the best. LOL

I read once where a bolter told of having the "while I'm here syndrome". while I'm here I might as well fix this!!.... and ends up like you, with an off frame resto.
Keep plugging.... a minimun of 15 minutes a day, no matter what. And keep us posted.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Joined: May 2012
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T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I know what you mean...

Mine is more of a.. Not much choice...

I was originally thinking I'd get it serviceable to drive it some even if just around the friends farm for a while before diving in head first... unfortunatly, it just didn't make sense. The cab floor was so far gone it sagged and impeded the pedals and the brakes were non-existant.

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Tj M,

Nothing like jumping in with both feet! And you did look before you leaped! Any plan can be tackled as long as you have a sound plan to start with. I am at a crossroad as I am contemplating frame off vs. creeper time. Though mine runs, moves, and stops, needed repairs, cleanup, and detailing would be much easier with out the body in the way!

As far as the aroma, the grease and oils are o.k., but I prefer the mud, primer, and paint! They could call the aftershave "The Shop" or "Restore"!

Good luck and keep us posted on progress!


Stranger
Frank in Iowa

1955 Second Series Chevrolet Shortbox NAPCO with a Rockwell Transfer Case
"Mater's Cousin"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Hey Tj_M, I forgot to tell you if you pull the engine and trans as a unit be sure to take out the 2 lower bolts that hold the trans on that are inside the bellhousing while it's in the air. The upper ones are outside.


1936 Chevrolet 1.5-ton SWB
"Murtahg"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

It's only original once.
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 256
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 256
nice... I know what you mean by frame off

here is mine a few months back
Huckster: Frame Off

and where i was as a few weeks aog on the frame:
Huckster: Frame Prime 03

need to finish up the prime, and start on the suspension and members, then i can paint !!


1929 Chevrolet AC International - 4 Door
1930 Chevrolet AD Universal - Canopy Express Truck
Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932
The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Nice work, BearsFan315

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thanks all for the encouragement!

1936only: Can you please explain? are the bottom two inside an inspection widnow or something? just easier to get to?

Maybe i'll break all the bolts loose while it's still in the frame...

Can I set the engine square on the ground? should I be concerned about crushing the oil pan?

Joined: Feb 2002
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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those bolts are only accessible from inside the bellhousing once the lower cover is off, once the engine is on the ground you won't be able to get at them .... as long as you don't drop it, setting the engine on the ground, wedged so it's not tippy, will be fine

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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good to know!

I'll prob crack everything loose and remove the bottom two and then pull the engine.

Then I can remove the transmission and get the engine on the stand.

I can search too but how about lift points?

Tj

Joined: Mar 2009
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 124
Originally Posted by Tj_M
I can search too but how about lift points?

Tj


i used a few grade 8 bolts through the head into the block. i think thats a common way to attatch a chain when pulling the motor.

Last edited by monkey wrench; 02/01/2013 10:33 AM.
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Shop Shark
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You can get at the 2 lower bolts by taking off the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing. You'll see 2 bolt heads attaching the trans to the bell housing. And you can take these out or just loosen them up while the engine and trans is in the truck. I usually have a couple of 2x4's around to put the engine down on and stabalize it but I would'nt just take the cherry picker off of it while your working on getting the trans off. I would recomend a engine stand to bolt your engine to while you work on it. Much safer than having an engine fall over and ruin your day.


1936 Chevrolet 1.5-ton SWB
"Murtahg"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

It's only original once.
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 271
I'm going to borrow an engine stand from my uncle so I have that covered.

I found other threads about using the head bolts. I may actually buy a couple lifting eyes or eye bolts. Then I'll have good attachemnt points.

Anyone know which positions are good for balance? Otherwise I'll eyeball it..

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by Tj_M
I'm going to borrow an engine stand from my uncle so I have that covered.

I found other threads about using the head bolts. I may actually buy a couple lifting eyes or eye bolts. Then I'll have good attachment points.

Anyone know which positions are good for balance? Otherwise I'll eyeball it..

The on-line 1954 truck manual (if you do not have a hard copy of that manual) shows the recommended lift points.

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
This has morphed into an engine topic.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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