The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop String Method for installing windows

Another Tech Tip from Bartamos. He wrote a great tip on making solid side windows for a Suburban. A reference was the "string method," which many people have heard of. But same may not. So Ken worked up this side bar to go with that tip. Thought I'd add it here too in case anyone isn't familiar with this.

Thanks Ken!

Peggy M

Great tech-tip thanks for sharing.

Just to clarify a point.
People should note,the "string method" applies to 'S' section rubber seals and not to the 'H' section lock strip style rubbers commonly used in the rear of some vehicles.
Just in case there's any confusion.

Thanks Peggy great tip!

Used this on my front window install and it made it a really simple job, it works great.

I used GoJo for a lube with this method once with good results.

For a window-seal/string lubricant that will not harm rubber or contaminate painting, you might want to use an unscented, non-abrasive, non-silicone, non oil-based, water-soluble lubricant, such as a "personal lubricant" (lubricating jelly) that can be bought in any drug store as an inexpensive, generic-label product.

Personally I've found some 'lubricants' too slick,so I prefer to use good old water based glass cleaner.
The only downside is it can evaporate a little quickly,especially if it's warm.
(not usually too much of a problem here!)

X2 on the Windex. I've used it a lot. Sometimes though I think it has a lot to do with the rubber to...anyway, the windex works

I like Tim used the Jelly and liked that I could apply it with as small brush and it wipes up easily. I also used some of that 3M (blue)gentle type masking tape to hold the gaskets in place, the stuff grips but does not pull paint when you remove it.

Just to be clear. The tip was possibly edited a little. The ends of the string/rope should be at the BOTTOM. Start pulling it out from the BOTTOM. This lets the glass settle downwards using it's own weight and lots of lube/soap. It needs to settle downward in order to be able fit in at the top as the rope is fully removed.
The "training" comment is referring to taping the rubber onto the window for a few hot days/weeks to allow it to retrain from a rolled up configuration to a around the windshield shape. (I think this "training" is a very important step). This pre forming of the rubber is covered in the adjoining tip about side windows. If you have the delux stainless trim, put on top, bottom then sides, then corners after rubber is on window and before pulling string. The trim is pinched by the install and held in place. Check it while installing windshield, gently rubber hammer it back in if it starts to come out. Add clips after install. You may find that installing clips before pulling will work for you. Even the pro's have different methods of doing all this.

I would say that the string needs to start where you first insert the "window frame" into the rubber.
In the early 1960 models, the windshield has to go into the TOP first because of the overhead eyebrow over the windshield.

wrong according to the factory .... the eyebrow [same as 55-59 trucks] has no effect, the glass is placed against the opening all the way around before the string work starts, and the rubber is pulled on bottom first

Bill

wrong according to the factory .... the eyebrow [same as 55-59 trucks] has no effect, .....
Bill [/quote]

I beg to differ. The eyebrows are not the same at all on the 60's models.

UPDATE: After researching 55-59 windshield install, reading manuals and tech sections, the common wisdom/advice is to place the windshield down on the bottom pinch weld and start pulling the rope from the bottom and swing the top in. After installing two windshields and trying many times on both of them, I was only able to do the job by pulling the rope from the TOP. Worked the first time, both windshields, after trying the bottom pull, many times. I hereby change my tip advice to: "What worked for me is start pulling rope at top." Pulling to the left and right evenly, using soap and water. Both windshields had the chrome strip. On the second windshield I changed to a non chrome strip rubber. I will never do another chrome strip install, I will always do a non chrome. It adds too much more trouble to a non pro like me to deal with. There are extreme tolerances on opening and glass. If you get a small opening and a big glass, it's a little more work. I have only found a few shops that have experience, they either want to sell you the glass and install for $700/up or install for $300/up and if they break it YOU buy another. There is NO U.S. glass for these trucks. It's all "off shore" as they say.(Chinese)

Is it better to install the windshield, rubber AND metal frame all as one unit? (I have a '51 3100)

Haasman

I have only installed one from windshield (a '50 3600), after two tries.

My center rubber strip is slightly off-center at the top (the windshield center rubber is probably 1/4" towards the driver side, at the very top). Pulling on the glass laterally with a heavy duty suction cup and my hand on the other side of the glass has moved it slightly, but not completely. Has anyone else had trouble getting het windshield rubber to align in the center perfectly, or do most just allow it to lean slightly? Or is it just me??

No problems installing mine. Multiple times.

http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban217.JPG
http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban218.JPG
http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban219.JPG

No one likes a show off, Mark.

Nice work though!