The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 283

i have a 283 sbc an a 1ton granny gear 4spd the 283 runs good an has never let me down but it smokes an blows some oil b/c it needs rings i dont kno what year it is b/c grandaddy got it from a junk yard many years ago an i was wondering bout what kinda price i should put on it

Usually around here used V8s are anywhere from $100-$500

round here a 283 that needs a rebuild is hard to give away, but sometimes see'em as "cores" for 1-200 - the 4spd would detract from it for most

Bill

It's true, a 283 especially needing rebuilding won't bring much. I have about 10 here and they are not much in demand, right now anyway.

But the 4-Speed Granny Gear in good condition should bring anywhere from $75 to $275, around here anyway.

About the only way a 283 really has any great value is if it's a proper coded and dated engine for something like a Corvette or Feullie '57-'59 Chevy.

were is the casting number located i found a guy thats looking for a 283 but he listed a casting number.an theres a guy on craigslist that has a 283 with trans needs rebuild an he wants 500 for it but want and geting are to different things
what year did they stop running a canister oil fillter?seens i dont kno what year motor it is.how would i go bout finding out

casting number is normally on the flange the bellhouse bolts to, top of drivers side .... post it and I can prolly tell the year range .... if it has the mounting bosses on the side it's 58+ .... if it has a neoprene rear main seal it's 59+ .... all 283's originally had the tin can filter, if it doesn't, it'll have an adapter added, the spin on started in 68

Bill

Also, near the casting number you will find a date code. It will be between what looks like 2 slotted screw heads. It will have a letter first and 2 to 4 numbers. If you can find it, post it and we can tell you the exact date it was casted. Also on the front of the block, at the bottom of the passenger side head, you will see a pad. List those letters and numbers as well and we can tell you more about the engine.

casting number is it beside the disturbuter.ive been messing with a pontiac motor trying to get the numbers all day so i may get some things mixed up

No, like red58 stated, it is on the back of the block, on the left (drivers) side, near the seam of the bell housing and the block, but on the block. It will have 7 digits.

If the engine is still in the vehicle, it may be hard to see.

If the engine is still in the vehicle, it may be hard to see. [/QB][/QUOTE]


i figered yalled say that but theres no front end on the truck so maybe that will help im going to go look 1st thing tomorow moring an then ill post em

take a piece of mirror, easy to see that way, just don't write it down backwards

Bill

well it took a few days to get a cahnce to get back on here. but i think this is what i came up with 3896944 it my be wrong

that's a good 283 block number from 65-67 either truck or car .... those years shouldn't be bored more than .060, thinner walls than the mid-range ones

to get closer than that you'd need the number off the boss in front of the pass side head

Bill

would it be worth it to put new rings in it an then sell it b/c thats the only thing thats wrong as far as i kno? an ill try to get them numbers

well if it were that simple, but would prolly need some boring, and while it's apart, maybe other work ... gets to be more money than it's worth just to sell, but someone may want a builder, and it's always nice to start with a runner rather than a siezed blocka steel

Bill

I'd rather buy one I can hear run and that looks like no one has opened it recently. I'm not likely to buy one someone told him they had put new rings in.

that makes snese. i think im part of the resone it needs rings the motor sat for 20+ years. i spent bout 50 bucks an drive it home an i drive it jus as hard as i could drive it but did not lot the seals an stuff get back right 1st well at least daddy says its my fault

I like to take a digital camera and try to take pictures of the casting numbers. A lot of times I can't get my head close enough to see them.

To rebuild the 283 is more expensive than a 350.
My '58 283 I punched to .080" and now it's a little over 300 cubic inches.

If I remember correctly, the "early" 283's can be punched to at least .100".

Early 283's could be bored .125" to a 4" bore size, creating the legendary "301" engine. When Chevy combined the 327 block with the 283 crankshaft to make the Z-28 Camaro "302" they actually cheated about half a cubic inch. The actual displacement is 301.46 cubic inches.

301's had cooling problems because of the thin cylinder walls, but they ran like stink! 8,000+ RPM with the right porting, valves, camshaft and valve springs was not uncommon.

A small-block Chevy with over 50,000 miles on it WILL need to be rebored, guaranteed!
Jerry

I had on of those early (57) 283's that was an original fuelie. Bored it to 4" and Jerry is right. It would positively scream. I know some guys who bored 283's that actually went thru the cylinder, the walls were so thin. But I was lucky however and it did run a might warm.
We saw way more HP on a dyno, w/o water pump or generator than any of you would believe if I said it. Suffice it to say it was powerful and then some.

And this was a 2 bolt block using a lot of stock parts (and a few not so stock)

i thought the 302 was stroked?

i need anthor price estamte my parts truck has a inline 6 wit HEI aint that wat you call it but anyway i found a guy who wants to buy one an wanted to kno what would be to high of a price an what wouild be to low