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Joined: May 2005
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I've got a nice valve cover with the exception of someone chrome plated it.
What's a good and or easy way to remove it prior to painting?

Looks like it may only be chrome, no copper, and I'm not sure about nickel.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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I've used 80 grit to unchrome a bumper.


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Give it to a kid and tell him not to take the chrome off...


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I'm not excited about using abrasives because of the detail in the letters, overall it's already clean and straight and I don't want to remove any more material than necessary.

What does a chrome shop do before replating something that was poorly done to start with?

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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G
'Bolter
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I managed to prep a valve cover for paint/POR-15 in a floor standing sand blast cabinet. It made all kinds of funny sparks when the abrasive hit the chrome but the fairly fine abrasive left just enough key to make a good bond, no distortion that I could see took place. It was more a surface roughening than a material removal. Perhaps try your abrasive of choice on a scrap of something of similar weight before your valve cover?

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Ex Hall Monitor
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I believe they do it chemically but I might be wrong. If it's sticking just abrade it and paint over it.


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all you have to do is cut the gloss enoughto provide tooth for a good primer

chrome shops hand grind old chrome off, that's why it's more expensive to RE-chrome something

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

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Reverse electrolysis is one process that some plating companies use, another is the use of Muratic acid solution. If I remember correctly, brake fluid was never a friend of chrome either! blush

Contact your local plating or powder coating company and ask to hear their method of de-chroming.

Another thought is to trade with someone that would love to have a chromed valve cover.

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I was watching Powerblock this weekend and they had a segment showing Advance Plating in Tennessee that was flooded last year. They put their parts is a caustic bath to strip them. I don't know if that's SOP or was just used on their parts.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Use a good self etching primer, something that'll bite into the surface after you scuff it like squeeze said.
On aside note, it most likely does have a nickel base, that's wha actually gives "chrome" it's color. The chrome part is actually a very thin layer that's used to prevent corrosion in the underlying layers.


Bill Burmeister
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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...most shops "serious" about de-chroming will use chemicals. its a different world but for 13 years we plated nickel, copper and hard industrial chrome on top of the copper. To dechrome a print cylinder we ran hot water over the cylinder and then poured muriatic acid on it.....chrome gone! Its some nasty stuff though and anyone trying it should wear a respirator and be very careful.... .watch where you throw those dirty rags.



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I was going to mention muriatic acid also. I don't know about chrome, but I poured some through a regular metal funnel and it took the shine right off of it.


Rich
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Have a chrome place de-chrome it, or get a different one.

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I'll see what I can do. It's derusting now, I'll deal with the chrome next.
It was left outside upside down with pieces parts in it for quite some time before I got it, inside was rusted pretty bad but looks to be cleaning up quite nicely.

It's a reasonably rare valve cover for my Detroit 4-53. Early on they made them just a few years that said "General Motors Diesel" then after the company name change all the later ones say "Detroit Diesel".
I'm not likely to find another one any time soon, at least I haven't yet in the several years now I've had my eye out for Detroit parts.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Sep 2007
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'Bolter
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I think that if you take it to a chrome shop, they will remove all of the rust and the chrome at the same time.
Chris

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Rust is about gone, or so I hear. Ill get it back sometime soon and post some pictures.
Not knowing what to do with the chrome from the start I figured the rust was manageable so tackle that first. Good to know for next time that it may be a two for one deal!

Grigg

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Here's the new and the old, or is it the old and the new...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2181396090080251109PMwezY

This one shows the not so great looking chrome.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2773112840080251109ELVkyz

Rust is pretty much gone, a little evaporust will finish it off if necessary.

Chrome is next.
I'd really like to remove it because I'm afraid if I just scuff and paint then later the chrome will continue to peal.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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