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| | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 39 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 39 | having trouble getting the drums to come off> have removed wheel and flat head bolts> rocks a little but wont come out.
tanks | | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 | Did you run the adjusters as loose as possible? Old drums may get a ridge around the inside. If they are Huck brakes (should be) there are 2 adjusters per wheel cylinder. Both ends are RH threads. Looking end-on the cylinder, turn the star wheel counter-clockwise to loosen the shoes.
Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice) \'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run. My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787. Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If they appear to be sticking in the middle you need to strike them with a hammer where they are backed by the hub. You can also try turning the drum as you pull on it. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 | If I remember right, mine would not come off because of the "lip" even after backing off the adjusters. After prying with no luck I unbolted the cylinder itself and let it fall inside. For me, the drum came right off then. Not sure if anyone else would do that, maybe someone will confirm. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | You also removed the two screws holding the drum on as well right? | | |
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