The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine cleanup

I have a question for you engine mechanics. The 250 I purchased for the re-engine of my 48 Loadmaster has a lot of sludge buildup on top of the head. I removed the valve cover for a look and found the sludge. I cranked the engine and it runs good with good oil pressure. I also removed the oil pan and the bottom end is not as bad but has some buildup. I don't really wan't to tear it down cause everything looks pretty good and it runs so does anyone have any tips on sludge removal? The engine sat up for a while and the sludge is dry. I thought about using an old shop vaccum and scrapers and brushes and using the vaccum as I scrape so the sludge will be sucked up as I go.

Thanks,
JMH

.....well, one way would be to plug up your oil return holes and have at it. It will be a nasty and dirty job.

...or you could continue to run it like it is but some of it may come loose later and cause a problem. While you have the pan off I'd vote for plugging the return oil holes and have at it. Then wash it down good with kerosene before putting the pan back on.
Just my opinion. I don't like dirty engines!

Is it out of the truck? If its in the truck, clean it best you can with scrapers and the shop vac, then like Alvin said, wash it all down with Kerosene or like product. If its on a stand, you can get at it a lot better with a stronger cleaners.
If it was mine, I would soak it down with degreaser and then hit the car wash. After it was clean hit it with spray oil to stop any rust. I have washed a lot of engines this way and never hurt a one of them. Just get oil back in it and rotate it around to coat everything. I have said it before, engines are very tough and can take a lot of crap before they die, a little soap and water isn't going to kill one.

Joe

Joe, this is probably a really dumb question, but I'll show off my ignorance and throw it out there anyways: I'll be pulling my new motor from a donor truck in the next few weeks and setting it on a pallet for transport. If I want to go the car wash method, what's the full list of engine parts and/or holes that I need to cover, plug, or otherwise keep water out of? And are there best ways of keeping a covering totally secure while you're blasting a motor with pressurized soapy water?

Since I have been around engines a long time, getting them wet doesn't bother me. I pull the covers off top and bottom and wash the insides along with the out side. But when I do I use very hot water and have spray cans of oil ready to hit the internals with after it drys a bit. I also don't let them set for days on end afterwards. They are either taken clear apart or fired up and ran with in a day or so.

If you are new to engines, plug every hole you see and wash away using degreaser and scrub brushes. Soak it a couple of times with degreaser a day or two before washing to give it time to work.

With the engine on a stand or on its side, you can clean the top end (rockers and valve area) with spray cleaners and brushes. Keep the engine layed over and the crud will fall to the side and not down in the engine. Same for the lower end. When you are done, hang the engine over a large pan and pour some kerosene or mineral spirits all around the top end and let it run through the engine to flush the loose stuff out. Don't forget the side covers.

For a really dirty engine, keep the covers on and fill it with diesel fuel and let it set for a week or so, then finish up with pulling the pans for a check and clean up as described above if needed.

Don't forget to power flush the coolant areas. Pull the small clock drain plug on the left side to really get it cleaned out. You will be suprized how much rust and crude will come out of a good working coolant system.

Joe

Joe, awesome post - I'm sure it will be as helpful to other noobs as it is to me. Thanks a lot for taking the time to write it out! I'll have at my old grungy motor with confidence now. Cheers.

Nick,
Just don't let the city of MP catch you blasting a motor at a local car wash. They frown big time on this.

I should have figured the Bay Area might have stricter rules about this...

To JoeH,

Thanks for the tips on cleanup. I think with your methods I can clean her up just fine.I was not aware you could use water and chems to clean the inside of an engine that way. Guess you are right as long as you oil her up before the rust sets in!

Thanks again,

JMH

The bearings and crank surfaces seem to stay oily enough to not rust. Just soak it fown real good afterwards and blow dry it best you can if possible. Leaf blowers work pretty good for this if a compressor is not close by.

Joe

If you are going clean gunk of the top of the head, you should probably pull off the rocker assembly first and give it a good cleaning. The shafts and little oil-squirt holes in the arms are sure to be partially clogged. If you do this, keep all the parts in their original places.

two cents to add. if its on a stand, rotate 180 deg and clean the top end from the bottom. now when you are scraping and brushing and spraying what comes off falls down in the catch pan and not the oil pan.

This is a 250, they don't use rocker shafts.

Just to add to it...if you get the chance a few days ahead of time, soak the engine down on the outside with some Dawn dishsoap. Then when you go at it with the power wash, that stuff will really help cut the grease and crud. I also don't like a dirty engine and learned the hard way about keeping them clean. When I had my semi(KW) and it went to the shop the first time, when I paid the bill there was a charge for $75. When I asked about it they explained to me that they put a lackey on it with a steamer to clean it up before the mechanic took over. I figured after that it was a lot cheaper for me to buy my own powerwasher and keep it clean. Then when it developed a leak, I could find it and stay ahead of the grime under the hood.