The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop stuck engine

Hi guys, relatively new here. I usually post on the big bolts section, but have a general engine question. I have a BB Chevy in my 1 1/2 ton. It was previously installed by the former owner. He said it ran several years ago before being parked. I am at the point of getting it running now. I pulled the pullies off the front of the motor and put a wrench on the balancer bolt, tried turning clockwise and it won't budge. I pulled the plugs and noted there was some rust on the very bottom end of them. So I am assuming the motor is frozen due to the rust in the cylinders. What is the best thing to do to free it up?

I'd pull all the plugs and shoot the cylinders with some Kroil penetrating oil or PbBlaster and let it sit a couple of days. Also, pull the valve covers and spray some in and around the guides and rocker arms. Then try rocking it back and forth from the front as you did before. If it's really frozen, you may have to repeat the process a few times.

Good luck.

I have heard marvels mystery oil is ok to use. Is that a suitable choice?

I'm not sure on the MMO, I thought it was just an oil additive. I would use a good penetrating oil.

Maybe someone else can shed some light on this.

Another thing to check is make sure the clutch is not froze to the flywheel and pressure plate. Try turning the engine with the trans in neutral if you havent already. I know this sounds far fetched but i've seen it happen.

That's a good idea. Never would have thought of that. Will try tonight.

Also to get that first movement you will get better leverage by ratcheting the flywheel through the starter hole with a big prybar. once it moves then back to the front.

good idea. I made sure it was in neutral and it is still frozen. wonder if there is an access plate that come off the bottom of the transmission that I can take off to get to the flywheel and use a flywheel wrench. Another excuse to buy a new tool??? LOL.

well i used MMO in it last Saturday and nothing. so I think I will try the PBlaster now. Will have to wait to do that tomorrow now though.

Kroil is your friend!

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry

I did a test with different penetrants a few years back on a frozen engine. My results were clear that KROIL by far worked better than PB Blaster and WD-40. I'll swear by KROIL too.

It smells better too.

Here is a link to that post where I tested KROIL vs. PB Blaster on a stuck engine.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=215177&page=1

Gonna get some KROIL then. Thanks for the suggestion.

can it be purchased in auto parts stores or is it online only?

I've seen small cans available from gunsmithing-supply places like Midway USA and Brownell's, but their prices are pretty outrageous. Kroil started out many years ago as an industrial-use only product, so it's not readily available over the counter. I learned about it in the Air Force, where every base worldwide kept it in stock. The website is by far the best place to buy. I buy mine in 1-gallon quantities!
Jerry

KANOLABS.COM is the place to go. They used to offer a free can with a purchase of one. Once you order, they will continue to send fliers in the mail to you.
I still have WD-40 in my shop because it is so cheap, but the KROIL simply works better. I use KROIL on the more important and stubborn things. I use it more and more as time goes by instead of the WD-40.

Well, been trying all sorts of stuff to no avail. Liquid wrench, PBlaster, Kroil. So I pulled the valve covers today and found lots of rust in the heads. Rocker arms, push rods. So I think I am gonna have to pull it and either do a rebuild or get a different motor. It's a 454 and I get a different motor I think I would just go with a 350. Kind of torn on what I should do. The bus is a shorty and originally came with an inline 6, but I want to be able to get out of my own way. What do you think???

I like big blocks so I'd try to stay with one if I could. If you watch craigslist you'll probable find running big blocks in old pickups for not a lot of money.

And staying big block will save you money on all the little things that would need to be changed to get something else in.

Well, I found a 454 on CL for $250. Longblock, including the intake manifold, ditributor, water pump, balancer and starter. Guy said it needs the cam replaced, but still a good deal in my mind. So now to pull it over to the driveway on a solid surface and get some stuff done. I have a full set of brakes to go on it too. So I just need to get a little busier on it now.

Here is my "new" motor. Time to get it cleaned up and looking good for the bus.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m290/fclaridge/Bus/454Engine.jpg?t=1275100482