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#588254 10/31/2009 3:58 AM
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i've checked online for headers for my 62 c10 but it seems all i can find are block hugger style, anybody know of a manufacturer who makes the longtube. each one i find says will not fit truck with torsion bar suspension.
also i remember someone doing a master cylinder swap where they added a resevoir for the clutch...anybody know of this article.
thanks in advance

adrnln #588285 10/31/2009 5:56 AM
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My son swears by Doug Thorley headers. Very thick flange and great fit. I believe these are the TRI-Y design. They come in ceramic and chrome and are very expensive. They don’t indicate any restriction regarding torsion bars.

http://dougthorleyheaders.com/produ...MC/model/TRUCK/sfID1/9/sfID2/35/sfID3/33

Don’t know if this is the article you’re looking for, but here’s how I did the hydraulic clutch on my 1960 GMC:

http://sixty7ss.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=engine&action=display&thread=666

And another link showing a more recent improvement and even better looking design:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=365466


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Markeb #588344 10/31/2009 4:13 PM
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Headers, in my opinion, are for racing applications only. For a street driven vehicle, there's no significant power gain and are more trouble than they're worth. Get some good ram's horn manifolds and save yourself some headaches!
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
48bigtrucks #588445 10/31/2009 10:23 PM
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I've got Patriot Exhaust (Summit Part# H8021-1)Clippster Headers on my '63 K10. Summit site says they will fit. They are the ceramic coated ones and cost around $300. There are cheaper ones for around $140. I had to clearance my TH350 trans on the right side a little, but no major problems. They are great even though they are not the long tube type.

Last edited by rkf; 10/31/2009 10:27 PM.

"63 K10 chevy,406 mpfi small block, 350 trans, 33" tires.
rkf #588490 11/01/2009 1:32 AM
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thank you markb, not the article i remember but is just as good.
for now i'm keeping the original master but will upgrade later.
i put on a new slave but it did not fix my problem so it is the master, the brake side of the master still works fine. i am gonna do an upgrade later but don't want to waste money for a new master just for the clutch.
as for the headers, really have to have headers to get the sound i want and long tubes are my first choice but not at any cost so i may have to go with the huggers.
thanks all for the reply
if any one hears of long tubes for the 61 or 62 PLEASE let me know.
thanks again!!

adrnln #588510 11/01/2009 2:08 AM
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I agree with both you and Scott. I'm running ram horm manifolds on my 1960 since I'm too cheap and lazy to deal with the cost of headers. The last time I had them (cheap Cyclone brand) they leaked at the flange, required constant tightening, melted plug wires, and made the engine compartment really hot. And depending on how much you spend and how thick the material, some brands rust out in a few short years.

On the other hand, nothing sweeter than the sound of long tube headers, especially with a rough cam and solid lifters. Love the sound of the lifters ringing down the pipes, there's no substitute.


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Markeb #588563 11/01/2009 3:53 AM
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Is this a small block or a big block? And $140 for headers?!? I can barely believe $300 for a pair, but I guess I'll have to take your word for it, rfk.
If you want them to have any sort of durability, you probably should be looking for a set of ceramic coated ones. Or other high temp coating. $140 steel headers sound like they will look like what you paid for them in about 3 months of driving. Sanderson makes some decent ceramic coated block huggers for a big block which I got for about 400 bucks, which I thought was a good deal.

k10 #588638 11/01/2009 6:28 AM
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Assumig you have a SBC like I have in my '62 c-10, the stock cast iron headers won't work because the torsion bars are right below the dump on the headers. Long runner headers won't work either because they dump, yep, right onto the torsion bar (trust me, I bought a pair of '69 chevelle headers thinking they would work, Not). I don't think you will get responses to your post which will definately tell you a name brand and part no. that will fit a long runner header, since I did the same thing a year ago and got nothing.
I wound up with a pair of block huggers from summit. They don't leak. also, if you are using side engine block motor mounts, that is also a problem. I have braided stainless steel flexible pipes just after the headers which I think relieves some of the header strain and keeps them tight.

Tim K #588754 11/01/2009 5:57 PM
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"I have braided stainless steel flexible pipes- which relieves-strain."
That's a clever idea.

k10 #588856 11/02/2009 12:26 AM
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283 sbc for now but will only be upgrading to 350 so no change in header location. i saw a pair of headman headers that are shaped very similar to the ramhorns i have on it now, they dump straight down just like the 2in.pipe on there now but it looks like the rear motor mount crossmember will interfere like tim k said. and yes you can only get that sound from a pair of long tubes..bummer
where did you find the braided flex pipe at and do you order it to length or choose from premade lengths?
thanks yall

adrnln #589032 11/02/2009 4:44 PM
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Stainless braided flex pipes of different pre made lenghths and diameter can be found at the big parts houses like Summit or Jegs.

Tim K #589164 11/03/2009 1:41 AM
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cool,
i'll check into it
thanks very much

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I agree, my dad and his friends always put it this way; GM spent more money on designing the parts on a car than any aftermarket people did, if you change one part then you have to change another, for example if you put on headers then you have to change the jets in the carb then you have to change the cam 1/2 the time.After modifying a 396 I wound up with a 443 and it didn't last 2 years before I had troubles ( bleprinted, dual highrise twin 650 dbl. pumpers, H.E.I., calif. cam.,laser balanced / hand polished crank, short stroked, distorted piston, custom ported heads, hand tuned headered pain in the backside). It was shiny for the car shows but it turned into a british car "drive one day work on it two".

Originally Posted by 48bigtrucks
Headers, in my opinion, are for racing applications only. For a street driven vehicle, there's no significant power gain and are more trouble than they're worth. Get some good ram's horn manifolds and save yourself some headaches!
Scott

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Never had headers that wouldn't leak in time.

I second the Ram's horns advice.

gazim #589852 11/05/2009 3:07 AM
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I would have to agree with you on the trouble headers carry with them but it's just one of those things you deal with just for the cool factor.....i think

k10 #591026 11/09/2009 5:13 PM
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K10, My headers are the ceramic coated ones mid lenth for a SB chevy from Patriot @ summit right now for $305.95. Check it out. Summit part #PTE-h8021-1


"63 K10 chevy,406 mpfi small block, 350 trans, 33" tires.
rkf #591388 11/10/2009 10:42 PM
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where i run into trouble is i don't have auto trans. so says doug thorley...anyone have headers on three on tree small block w/ torsion bar susp.?


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