The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Brake line flaring

Here's a little video I made demonstrating how to make a double flare on steel brake lines. I used the basic flaring tools that the average home mechanic might have. Nothing fancy ('cept maybe for the Snap-On file), just the basic $20 flare kit from the flaps.
There will ba at least 1 more vid, maybe 2 on the subject, as I', going to show how to flare with a professional tool, as well as the differences between double flare and ISO Metric found on newer vehicles.

Good show! Watching someone do something like I did 50 years ago makes it a lot simpler than trying to read instructions.

I did a pictorial on this a while back, but though a vid would be better. I shot parts 2,3, and 4 about 10 minuits ago, I'll try to have them up tomorrow.
If I can get it back together in somewhat of a funtional form, I have a spare RH-10 overdrive that I'm thinking of making a vid of, if only to show how the guts work.

Hey Bill, what kind of a camera do you need to make one of those youtube vidios???
DG

I'm using a Sony DCR-HC52 Handycam I picked up when the Circuit City over in Champaign had their clearance sale. I have it mounted on a $20 adjustible tripod. The camera I have uses the mini DV tapes, and hooks up the the computer with a Firewire rather than a USB. There is a different version fo the same camera, the DCR-HC54 that has a USB port, but I'm not sure if it's still in production. It'll shoot 60 mins of video. It also has a night vision feature, but I haven't tried filming with it yet.
So far, I'm quite pleased with the camera.

Bill,

Good Show, I always wanted to learn how to do that. One thing I'm a bit confused on is how does the first flare "not" bend OUT the metal and then you have to bend it "in" to fold back on itself.

I'm sure your explained it correct, I just did not get "it" from lack of exp.

Jake

I'm actually thinking of reshooting part 2, which will be a double flare done with a professional grade tool. I can show the first operation and how it forms the metal a bit better with that tool.

Part 2. This time, with the professional grade tool. I also threw in an explaination of how the metal of the tube is formed in the die.

Is that the MasterCool tool you are using? I have noticed NTX has a pretty good deal on them. Again, it was a very good show.

Once you've mastered the technique to form a decent looking double flare.....don't dispair if you have some leaks.

It may be common sense but when you snug down the B-nut be sure to wiggle the line so that it seats fully. If you don't use that little "wiggle" of the line, you can crank down and the fitting may still leak.

I like to leave off all the line to frame clamps and after I have everything gently snugged down so I have the b-nuts started.....then go throught the system and wiggle the lines until they are seated and the nuts tight.

With a good double flare and the proper technique for the final tightening your system will be free of leaks.

Dave

Thanks LB for those VERY NICE tutorials...Ya did a fine job!
keep em coming..as my Pappy always said watchin is beter than reading ANY DAY!
Tim

Thank you Bill. It was nice to actually SEE a hydraulic flare tool being used.
I think this should be a Tech Tip as most every single restoration anyone does will have to do something with the brake lines. Heck, the price of a "pre-fabed lines" would just about pay for a nice flare set....then you can loan it to your friends

Thanks for sharing.

Hey Long Box,
I usually squeeze my tubing clamp in a vise to help take the warp out of it and sometimes leave it there during the flare, if there's room for the wedge. I haven't had one slip yet,
Scott

LongBox,

I stopped by Autozone and barrowed one of there tube flaring kits and made my first flare, you were right, it's not that hard. However, it seems that the fitting that I put on the tube always seems to be cocked a little. When I look at the tube it looks straiight in the clamping part but the flaring piece still comes down a bit crooked? I've only made 3 so far. I'm using the new softer metal type tubing easier to bend by hand) do you think that is the reason?

Jake

This is a little OT but watching your videos got me wondering. How do you make the ends for the lines that use o-rings for your early 80's & up GM power steering?

Sometimes it can be a little tricky to get it exactly straight. I've also had problems with the tool being a bit sloppy making the ram go in off center. The tube shouldn't be causing any issue. Best advise I can give is Practice, Practice, Practice!

Have been, Have Been, Have Been!